Roffles i had line locks on my rodeo.

 

Lots of misinfo. Only way to change stutter boost with a flash is through an rpm change which is really stupid over 5800rpms, you are just asking to break driveline parts.

Ignition cut systems, timing retard systems are the only way.

Line locks are for locking the fronts so the car doesn't learch forward on a burnout.

 

Would you want to launch with 20psi off the line (drivetrain parts all over the place)

 

this is evom... misinformation is how we roll

 

A line lock is also used to hold the car at the line when you are using a trans brake, you wire the trans brake and line lock on the same switch so both are activated and deactivated at the same time. It will keep the car from rolling out if the trans brake slips a little. A trans brake engages first gear and reverse at the same time so you can full load the torque converter. When you let off the on the trans brake button it is like dropping the clutch at 5500rpm but a little softer.

 

i wonder if there is a way to make a line lock that locks both front and rear for awd cars. not that i need one but just an idea

 

sure if you want to destroy your drivetrain

 

that was my exact thought after i posted that lol

 

While it's true a line lock is used to hold a RWD car's front wheels in place in order to allow a big rear wheel burnout, consider this - if you put a line lock on all 4 wheels of an EVO you could sit there with the clutch engaged revving hard against the line lock, putting a very big load on the drivetrain which would mean a lot of boost building up.. no idea if it would work or not but it's feasible. it would tear up a stock drivetrain but in a drag car it could work. In the new issue of EVO the editors found the best way to launch an FQ340 was by engaging the e-brake, releasing the clutch, revving hard and then releasing the e-brake to launch. Sounds brutal to me but they claimed it worked well and wasn't that hard on the drivetrain.

 

Using an AEM, you can create as little or as much boost as you'd like off the line... and even between shifts too. However, unlike the common misconception, creating more boost using a launch does not mean you'll run faster times. The amount of fuel your motor will dump right when you launch can make your 24psi+ launch turn into a total bogging failure.

 

I have also heard of a meathod where you hold the revs at like 4,000 with the clutch half way engaged and you use the e-brake to stop the car from moving. This will wear out your clutch but it will place very little shock load on your drive train, it will also allow you to build 15psi or more

 

Heres the info in full for our cars in order of best launching practices

1.) Floor it and launch at certain RPM (~4-6 psi)
2.) "Stutterbox" launch Rev Limiter (~10-12 psi)
3.) "Stutterbox" and timing retard (Drag style anti-lag) (~15-22 psi)
4.) "Stutterbox", anti-lag and slip the clutch out holding the car with the E-brake (20+ psi)
5.) Same as above but with a line-lock

Launching by holding the car with a brake of somekind not only builds a ton of boost but also gives you a hell of a launch. Consistant high 1.5s to low 1.6s are normal with normal all-season tires if you do it this way.

 

No...very bad idea. You'd be buying a new clutch and flywheel. This goes for using the e-brake as well. If you depress the clutch pedal in gear and you're not moving, then your friction disk is on fire, and is in the process of making your flywheel look like a Pringles chip.

 

Alright, I found the company that make it and had a good talk with one of the tuners. He says it is not a studder box or anti-lag. It does adjust timing and does not flood the engine with fuel and works like no other launch control available. It's a box with nine wires and installs in an hour and a half. He said any car that is going to come out of the hole fast is going to be harder on the driveline just ask any of the 10 sec and below car owners. It can be installed with activation using the pedal or on a button. With my mods he recommeded a dual stage boost that is an option so right after the launch I go to a higher boost. It has a smart function that works with any mitsu engine/turbo setup. I'm getting it put on either tomorrow or thursday if I can get away from work. I let everyone know then how it works out and try to get some video launching against my friend's IX.

 

There is alot of mis-information in this thread this much is true. One thing that isnt mis-info is the ability to raise boost with a flash independent of RPM increase. I did it today. Its not as effective as an actual 2 step box like a DIS2, but its better than nothing (and it costs nothing...win win).