sounds like your clutch is toast to me... I am not an expert but thats what my clutch was doing before i dusted it the other day. And for the record it doesnt matter how long you had you car. After i broke in my car the clutch last 1000 mile give or take.... that of course has almost 200 launches and quite a few races from a roll.
Damn the clutch pill!!!!!

 

That is what i was thinking most of the time, but i just cant see how the clutch is that cheap or unreliable! If it is the clutch, then it was just a coincidence that the SRI was put on and then it started doing that. Will the dealer replace it since its under warranty?

 

sell me the intake

 

the dealer wont replace a clutch.... not under warranty... Its like asking them to change your oil for free because its under warranty..... If you try and come to them with some warranty crap they will just do what every dealer will and cry racing... which voids you warranty.
you can have the dealer check the car out and see what they say... but take off the intake first... if the intake is effecting the MAF then there goes you warranty... Its a very fine line... modding your car and not voiding the warranty

 

Just giving you advice...

...yeah, there are ********* on all boards...however, most of the ********* forget that they were once "noobs" ...lol ...

...search is your best friend. Keeps you from getting verbally assaulted

 

actually, the clutch is covered under warranty. 12months/12,000 miles check it under manual. take out the intake and put everything back to stock. take it to the dealer and see what they say. the clutch could have been abused before the purchase.

 

1. Explain your problem in a little more detail. Does this happen during simple cruising, acceleration. etc?

2. The intake is likely to be fine on the car. If it wasn't, then you would get a check engine light or SES. OBDII reads air/fuel ratios and if they are out of whack then it will throw lean or rich codes (applies to closed loop which it sounds like you'd be in if you're cruising on the highway)

3. If there are differences in airflow, the car does something called "trimming" where it reads the air/fuel ratio and adds/removes fuel. If for some reason the intake made you go lean or rich, the car will automatically adjust (within it's ability) to stabalize this. This only applies for closed loop (not for wide open throttle)

4. Don't listen to the rest of these idiots who have never tuned a car telling you that you need it tuned. You def could benefit from it, but it's not necessary. I am currently running an aftermarket intake pipe, MAF adapter, filter and test pipe without a tune and having no problems.

5. What I would check for: vacuum leaks. Check to see that no unmetered air is bypassing the MAF adapter. Check to see that the 2 vacuum lines that are supposed to be connected to your intake are in fact connected. 1 is the breather from the crankcase. The other is the stock boost control solenoid's bleed line returning to the intake. Un-metered air flowing in or out of your intake system will definately throw off the car's ability to control the fuel going in.

6. You can actually leave both of these venting to atmosphere so long as your intake pipe is closed (no holes or vacuum nipples left open)

 

the clutch will not be covered.... i understand that the warranty says but what the dealer says is a different story... either they will tell you its been raced.... or its driver error... neither are covered.... the warranty only covers mechanical failure caused by the manufacturer

 

Damn, people are being harsh on here. Might want to make sure the intake is sealed completely and not letting air in after the MAF. I had an AEM intake on my 03 evo without a tune and it ran perfectly. I could have made more power with a tune but the car ran fine so unless the HKS is that different in driveability, I doubt thats causing the problem.

 

+1.

the only reason i'm on this board is so i could research stuff i'm putting on my car 250% before committing the buy.

 

You should be careful what you read then.
I'm on the forum for the same reason. Great resource. However...
I'm finding most people on this forum know very little, but give lots of advice.

 

yep yep check for air leaks, oh and just a silly suggestion but check the plug that you probably disconnected on the maf when you installed your intake but make sure that it's snapped in all the way, your car will not have any Idea what's going on if your maf isn't working properly, maybe unplug it and snap it back in, oh and if that still doesn't work check the thin wires suspended inside of the maf on the pipe side of it, sometimes a new filter is too heavily oiled and contaminates them lil sensitive wires I cleaned mine when they gummed up with a k&n, I just used a q-tip and lil rubbing alcohol or brake/carb cleaner just be careful and take your time...

 

too true

 

Thanks to the mature people that had good suggestions, and not the kids that could only say "tune it noob" pssh, pathetic. Anyhow, i have checked both 2 vacum line solenoids and they are secure. The intake piping was taken out last night late, and i replaced it with the stock rubber pipe. Now everything is back to stock, except for the filter on the end still using the HKS filter. The cars over revs on normal driving speeds, and even without goin WOT. I believe now this may be a clutch problem.....if it is, the dealer WILL replace it with no charge. I will be removing the filter tommorow and putting the stock box back on, if the issue still persists, the clutch is gone.?

 

reset your ecu...
scan tool: clear codes(even if you don't have any...this resets the ecu)
or disconnect negative terminal for about 30mins

...drive her again, and see where she's at w/ the stock box...
first manual car?