Evo IX MAF Problem!
I believe now this may be a clutch problem.....if it is, the dealer WILL replace it with no charge. I will be removing the filter tommorow and putting the stock box back on, if the issue still persists, the clutch is gone.?
Originally Posted by Neuspeed06
Thanks to the mature people that had good suggestions, and not the kids that could only say "tune it noob" pssh, pathetic. Anyhow, i have checked both 2 vacum line solenoids and they are secure. The intake piping was taken out last night late, and i replaced it with the stock rubber pipe. Now everything is back to stock, except for the filter on the end still using the HKS filter. The cars over revs on normal driving speeds, and even without goin WOT. I believe now this may be a clutch problem.....if it is, the dealer WILL replace it with no charge. I will be removing the filter tommorow and putting the stock box back on, if the issue still persists, the clutch is gone.?
It could be a pedal adjustment problem if you touched that at all.
If you adjusted the pedal too far inwards, the clutch may never be fully connected to the flywheel.
Originally Posted by meanmud
How about get rid of it 
hey tox - how ya doing
I am writing form Venice right now
hey tox - how ya doing
I am writing form Venice right now
get the car completely back to stock and reset the ecu before doing anything with the clutch to see if the problem goes away. have you ever launched the car? ran it on the drag strip? missed some shift while driving hard? hope everything works out in the end
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 26
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From: Carson, CA
Originally Posted by SophieSleeps
1. Explain your problem in a little more detail. Does this happen during simple cruising, acceleration. etc?
2. The intake is likely to be fine on the car. If it wasn't, then you would get a check engine light or SES. OBDII reads air/fuel ratios and if they are out of whack then it will throw lean or rich codes (applies to closed loop which it sounds like you'd be in if you're cruising on the highway)
3. If there are differences in airflow, the car does something called "trimming" where it reads the air/fuel ratio and adds/removes fuel. If for some reason the intake made you go lean or rich, the car will automatically adjust (within it's ability) to stabalize this. This only applies for closed loop (not for wide open throttle)
4. Don't listen to the rest of these idiots who have never tuned a car telling you that you need it tuned. You def could benefit from it, but it's not necessary. I am currently running an aftermarket intake pipe, MAF adapter, filter and test pipe without a tune and having no problems.
5. What I would check for: vacuum leaks. Check to see that no unmetered air is bypassing the MAF adapter. Check to see that the 2 vacuum lines that are supposed to be connected to your intake are in fact connected. 1 is the breather from the crankcase. The other is the stock boost control solenoid's bleed line returning to the intake. Un-metered air flowing in or out of your intake system will definately throw off the car's ability to control the fuel going in.
6. You can actually leave both of these venting to atmosphere so long as your intake pipe is closed (no holes or vacuum nipples left open)
2. The intake is likely to be fine on the car. If it wasn't, then you would get a check engine light or SES. OBDII reads air/fuel ratios and if they are out of whack then it will throw lean or rich codes (applies to closed loop which it sounds like you'd be in if you're cruising on the highway)
3. If there are differences in airflow, the car does something called "trimming" where it reads the air/fuel ratio and adds/removes fuel. If for some reason the intake made you go lean or rich, the car will automatically adjust (within it's ability) to stabalize this. This only applies for closed loop (not for wide open throttle)
4. Don't listen to the rest of these idiots who have never tuned a car telling you that you need it tuned. You def could benefit from it, but it's not necessary. I am currently running an aftermarket intake pipe, MAF adapter, filter and test pipe without a tune and having no problems.
5. What I would check for: vacuum leaks. Check to see that no unmetered air is bypassing the MAF adapter. Check to see that the 2 vacuum lines that are supposed to be connected to your intake are in fact connected. 1 is the breather from the crankcase. The other is the stock boost control solenoid's bleed line returning to the intake. Un-metered air flowing in or out of your intake system will definately throw off the car's ability to control the fuel going in.
6. You can actually leave both of these venting to atmosphere so long as your intake pipe is closed (no holes or vacuum nipples left open)
When the hell did you get an Evo? im thinkin of picking up a WW MR.
Originally Posted by Mr_Evolution
Yo sophie so this is where you been! haha btw this is mr.is300 on teh my.is
When the hell did you get an Evo? im thinkin of picking up a WW MR.
When the hell did you get an Evo? im thinkin of picking up a WW MR.
I had to get rid of my land rover and I needed a daily driver.
So i picked up an EVO. I think that was a good choice. We'll see over the winter.
They're so much fun out of the box.
I dunno if I'd get an MR. I got a GSR and put TSX projectors in it. I hear the 6 speed is made by toyota and is pretty weak.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 204
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From: Reno, NV
I replaced the stock airbox completely now back to original stock settings. The car still does the same thing: in case u forgot what it does; Over revs in every gear no matter what speed or throttle response. Revs extremely high and dips back down normally after a second. Some say clutch, some say MAF problem. My question is if it is the clutch, shouldnt this over rev stay high and not dip back down, and wouldnt it happen only sometimes, not everytime.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
From: Reno, NV
Originally Posted by forbidden color
i would say go back to stock and see if it still does it. You will know if it's the install or the clutch.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
From: Reno, NV
Just took the car into the dealership, and had a service mechanic drive it. He has no doubt that the clutch is toast..........so its done. I thought this all along from the first week i had it. So had nothing to do with the intake at all. What i cant understand is mitsubishi designed this car for speed and handeling, why put some crap clutch in that gives out after 1000 miles.........what a crock of **** if ive ever heard. Mitsubishi will be receiving a letter on this issue........i kinda feel now i dont want this car if this is how its manufactured. I cant wait to see what the dealership says tommorow. Thanks to everyone that tried to help! THis must be a record! Fried clutch at 1300 miles! 
Originally Posted by Neuspeed06
Just took the car into the dealership, and had a service mechanic drive it. He has no doubt that the clutch is toast..........so its done. I thought this all along from the first week i had it. So had nothing to do with the intake at all. What i cant understand is mitsubishi designed this car for speed and handeling, why put some crap clutch in that gives out after 1000 miles.........what a crock of **** if ive ever heard. Mitsubishi will be receiving a letter on this issue........i kinda feel now i dont want this car if this is how its manufactured. I cant wait to see what the dealership says tommorow. Thanks to everyone that tried to help! THis must be a record! Fried clutch at 1300 miles!
Learn HOW TO DRIVE.
No, its not a record, other bad drivers have killed clutches at 600 miles, IIRC.