When you disconnected it, did you remove it? If so, did you set it on your garage floor?
I have found, for whatever reason, if you set an automotive battery on the concrete floor for a week, it will kill it.

 

yeah i heard if the battery is properly stored, it wont die on you

 

disconected but left in battery tray in car

 

i have a ems, that in the cold, it will crank for a while. will it drain the battery enough to kill it?

 

+1

 

Check out Braille batteries. I have had mine for over two years and two winters with sub freezing temps and it starts every time. Plus it has more cold cranking amps than most "top of the line" standard batterys. Weighs only 11lbs!! And can be mounted vertically or horizontally!!

 

^ must be a dry cell battery

 

As a side note before we get too excited about 'shifting weight distribution', let's look at the numbers:

Car: ~3,520lbs.
Dist: ~60/40 (f/r)
Before relocation
=> front weight = 2,112lbs
=> rear weight = 1,408lbs
After relocation, assume the entire weight of battery goes on the rear axle. Assume battery weight = 20lbs.
=> front weight = 2,112 - 20 = 2,092lbs
=> rear weight = 1,428lbs
"Shifted" weight distribution = 59.4/40.6

So, we're going from 60/40 to 59.4/40.6. Is anyone going to really say they can detect a difference between the two?

Obviously, if you are doing it for other reasons, then go right ahead. But if you are looking at shifting weight distribution, it's a bit optimistic.

 

I don't agree. Doing the math on the battery relocation is different than actually moving it and watching what it does to the corner weighting on the scales. The battery is not in the center of the car which is what you are working in your math, it also isn't directly over either axle, it is either in front of one or behind one. Math is fine, but you have to use all the facts, placement, distance and leverage. Your simple formula isn't cutting it.

We were the first to build a mini-battery kit, the very few I/C pipes kits that were offered when the EVO came to the states all used the stock routing, which sucked. So I did the battery kits to makes room and make much shorter/more direct plumbing.

The battery kit is one of the best things to do to the engine bay for a good look. Ours looses almost 20 pounds. We offer a 1 year warranty on the battery. The mount we use is up to standards for racing as a matter of fact we were complimented by the NASA officials twice now on how nice it is.

If you want to move the battery to the rear we have a kick *** billet aluminium mount for putting a battery in the trunk. I have 1 or 2 of these left and when they are gone they are gone for good.

Moving a battery to the rear, for an example, in a Buick Gran National is like setting the engine back 6". That is a big effect.

 

Well, the original location is pretty much on the front axle (give or take a few inches) and moving it to the rear rather depends on the final location. The battery is not at the centre of the car (nor am I assuming so), the simple calculations above just removes 20lbs from the front axle and put it on the rear. Granted, if the battery is located behind the rear axle, it will move the weight further back but this will increase the rear axle weight by the ratio of the distance from the front axle to the battery divided by the wheelbase. A ratio which is probably quite close to 1. Obviously there isn't a fixed location for the placement in the rear, so I guess using 1 would perhaps suffice as you don't want it right at the very rear of the car for safety purposes. I don't see how this doesn't cut it as far as front/rear weight distribution is concerned.

From the perspective of side-side distirbution, if you are free to move it to anywhere you please, then obviously this will have a more significant effect on the L/R weights as you can literally go +/-20lbs or so on each wheel. Unfortunately, this can only work to full effect on the rear but it works nonetheless. I really should have been more specific and said that my post commented only on f/r distribution. The l/r weights is a valid point, but I don't think it has been mentioned on this thread. Thanks for pointing that out.

As said, I have not doubt that it serves other purposes also and these other effects imo have more relevance than f/r weight. The most blatant is that the plumbing can be made simpler and more efficient. I very much agree that ther are benefits to be had with the kit with the bonus that it is letting your engine work more effectively without putting additional stress and strain on it. I just don't agree that the f/r weight distribution is a prominent reson why one should go for the kit. A by-product of the install, perhaps.

It really does depend on the weight of the car, the battery, where it was to start with, where it can end up and the wheelbase of the car. [I don't know what a Gran National look like, so can't comment].

I do believe though that if people experience improvement in terms of handling it perhaps come from other effects. I would think that the battery being high up, reducing its weight or having it in the trunk in a lower position than stock perhaps helps with roll (lowered center of mass, specially on/near the front axle). If Mitsu went thorugh all the trouble of putting on an aluminium roof and hood, I think perhaps there's something there.

 

I sit in my car for about an hour listening to the stock radio.....is that long enough to drain a mini battery....Its fine for the stock batter

 

My Battery Relocation

 

I would say the stock radio would not harm the mini battery kit if you ran it for an hour, the stock radio doesn't pull many amps.

The picture above would have a big effect on the corner weights of the car. As far to the left as it can go and as far back.

 

Just for the record, it is -1*F this morning here in MN, -16*F with windchill. I have the buschur mini battery kit, and the car cranked right over, no problem! Started right up. I was reeeeaaaaally hesitant when ordering, but Jarrod assured me that it they had a ton of customers w/ the same battery and zero issues. I went with it, but keep my stock battery close by, just in case. Haven't needed it yet!

 

I am going to be putting a sound system in the car very soon and was wondering if i should get an Odyssey Mini under the engine bay or relocate a full-size battery to the trunk?

Anyone have suggestions? i just want to make sure that every time i turn the key, the car will start with no problems and so i can sit in the car every now and then with the key in IGN and listen to music or watch a movie.....