Got my defi's...
in case you havent done it yet, everything you need can be found in the center console without trying to work on the cramped radio harness.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=224251
Its what I used when installing defis
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=224251
Its what I used when installing defis
in
No, i havent installed them yet. thanks for the link, i tried looking everywhere. Although i am going to try to tap radio wires first, as i have a 9 and if you read down that thread a little, someone had the issue with dimming of lights.
But i thank you for your post!
Thanks everyone, ill have pics up in this thread when they go in. Hopefully ill have time tomorrow, as my dealership is dead for work and my bay will prob. be open.
case you havent done it yet, everything you need can be found in the center console without trying to work on the cramped radio harness.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=224251
Its what I used when installing defis
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=224251
Its what I used when installing defis
But i thank you for your post!
Thanks everyone, ill have pics up in this thread when they go in. Hopefully ill have time tomorrow, as my dealership is dead for work and my bay will prob. be open.
3M has out some solid wire connectors for wire taps and connectors. They call them Posi-tap's and they sell them in most Walmart auto sections. They hold tight and even if you're paranoid you can electrical tape the parts where they screw into eachother. Just find the right connectors for where the right gauge.
http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html
http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html
OK, I have a question. Why dont you just follow the directions that come with the Defi guages? It tells you what wires do what. This is what I did. I found wires that I thought were the right ones and then used a test light to make sure before splicing in. I used the red radio wire for constant power, and then used the wires at the IC sprayer switch for everything else and they work perfectly. Now I know you dont have that switch on your IX but you can just use the wires from the cig lighter and use the wire off of the bulb in the ashtray for the dimmer. Works perfectly. If you have any specific questions PM me as I found this to be an easy installation once I just went for it. I was kind of nervous at first too. Splicing wires always makes me nervous.
I was kind of nervous at first too. Splicing wires always makes me nervous.
I guess its just paranoia and i tend to get really nervous when i care so much about my investment in the car and gauges.
Let's see some pictures....
Ill have them up as soon as there in, promise. Either way, im taking some pics tomorrow pre install to make sure i can figure out how to get pics on here.
Thanks dude...I might look into getting some for my IX. I just need to start saving money.
Last edited by evo_skillz; Jan 7, 2007 at 07:52 PM.
Thanks dude...I might look into getting some for my IX. I just need to start saving money.
Defi imperial boost-260
Defi imperial oil temp-225
Defi imperial oil pressure-250
Defi link control II-110
Mitsubishi radio relocation kit-60
Autometer tripple upper console pod-30
Greddy Evo 9 oil block adapter-65 (seperate part # from evo 8's, so if you need the part #, pm me)
All in all after tax and shipping, it came to 950 ish.
I can honestly say though, after having autometer mechanical gauges in my STi, i definitly think its worth it.
Not having to worry about oil running up to the gauges if you dont buy the isolation boxes, the noise the boost gauge makes (its like a leaking noise even though there was none), and they just werent as responsive or easy to read.
Ill Pm you when i have pics.
JoshR
Well, Started the install, but only had an hour after work to do it. Some things to note:
The greddy adapter had NPT threads tapped in the oil pressure galley to accept the NPT threads on the pressure sensor. However, the oil temp sensor was tapped for BSPT and the sensor was NPT. Not a huge problem, as i had the correct tap to re-tap the threads, just dont want someone to be half into this and realize this and not have one handy.
After the adapter was installed with the sensors attached with teflon, I had to route the wires into the firewall. I used the big wiring harness grommet that can be seen from the passenger side inside cabin, near your feet. I made a hole just big enough to slide french fingers through (the long bendable claw grabbers that clamp shut when you release the top) the hole from the inside, and pulled the wires though.
I mounted my boost sensor box up near the ABS module by the white clip that you can pull right off the screw. I simply put the screw directly in the sensor hole and replaced the clip (it just slides right back on). This allows for a close mounting point to the source; the FPR.
Before i had to leave, i made sure the wires were electrical taped up nice, and that they were zip tied to non-moving points underneath the car. all the way up into the firewall to prevent rubbing from the CV shaft and other components.
Be sure to replace the oil that comes out of the filter when you put the adapter on. Also, check and make sure there are no leaks. If you used Teflon tape and snugged everything up right, there shouldnt be, but just check to make sure.
The greddy adapter had NPT threads tapped in the oil pressure galley to accept the NPT threads on the pressure sensor. However, the oil temp sensor was tapped for BSPT and the sensor was NPT. Not a huge problem, as i had the correct tap to re-tap the threads, just dont want someone to be half into this and realize this and not have one handy.
After the adapter was installed with the sensors attached with teflon, I had to route the wires into the firewall. I used the big wiring harness grommet that can be seen from the passenger side inside cabin, near your feet. I made a hole just big enough to slide french fingers through (the long bendable claw grabbers that clamp shut when you release the top) the hole from the inside, and pulled the wires though.
I mounted my boost sensor box up near the ABS module by the white clip that you can pull right off the screw. I simply put the screw directly in the sensor hole and replaced the clip (it just slides right back on). This allows for a close mounting point to the source; the FPR.
Before i had to leave, i made sure the wires were electrical taped up nice, and that they were zip tied to non-moving points underneath the car. all the way up into the firewall to prevent rubbing from the CV shaft and other components.
Be sure to replace the oil that comes out of the filter when you put the adapter on. Also, check and make sure there are no leaks. If you used Teflon tape and snugged everything up right, there shouldnt be, but just check to make sure.



