Good source for Evolution VIII timing belt?
the only reason the dealers tell you it's 100000 miles before belt replacement is because consumer reports judges a car on how much it costs to maintain a car up to 100000 miles. you can try to stretch 100k out of a timing belt, but i think it's very safe to replace it at 60k. as a mechanic, i've seen people try to go 100k before t-belt, waterpump and they just dont make it. waterpump fails and coolant goes onto belt, shredding the belt and even jumping time. i would do the whole shebang. the dealer will say you dont have to but it's even more money if you blow your engine....... (not saying they would want your car to blow up, but better safe than sorry.)
Like I said cheap insurance at 120 i'll do them agian. Balance belt fails your F)&ked, water pump fails you better hope it doesnt lock up the sprocket and shread the timing belt or your fu(&ed, hydrolic tensioner fails you Fuc)(d oh and it does happen trust me Ive seen it on a friends integra and on an 00 Eclipse GT both time no more motor. Since your in there change it.
water pump etc. to be changed if it was designed to fail at 60k. For every car that has tensioner, water pump etc. fail, their is the 99% who have no problems. Once somebody posts that their such and such failed, the ripple effect is amazing, like everybody should go out and get it replaced the next day, without looking at the big picture. That is what TSB's are for: Obvious known mecanical failures that need revising or replacing.
Who is to say it has to be done at 60k?
Its just a known mileage where the belt is at its lowest limits or beginning of deterioration. Some go longer some change it earlier. But hey if you distrust your engine and feel like you're gambeling with an engine meltdown or are planning to run the car into the ground and keeping it for a long time then go for it replace everything. Just my .02!
Last edited by BUCKNAKED; Jan 30, 2007 at 08:34 PM.
Timing belts can break or wear, period. Combine that with running with no tbelt cover on the gears and you wear it out faster from dirt, debris and oil.
The Gates timing belts are the best available and is what we run on our own car. They are not TOO RIGID or tight. The tightness is set by the tensioner and autotensioner and if its too tight, it is due to installer error as they overtightened the tensioner.
The Gates timing belts are the best available and is what we run on our own car. They are not TOO RIGID or tight. The tightness is set by the tensioner and autotensioner and if its too tight, it is due to installer error as they overtightened the tensioner.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 9,002
Likes: 12
From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
For 03-05 Evos:
MR984375 - TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
MD326059 - TIMING BELT
MR984778 - BALANCER BELT
MD352473 - BALANCE TENSIONER
It was about $230 out the door for all those parts. A fellow mievo.net member and I did this at his friends garage.
The dealers I talked to wanted about $650 for the install w/parts.
MR984375 - TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
MD326059 - TIMING BELT
MR984778 - BALANCER BELT
MD352473 - BALANCE TENSIONER
It was about $230 out the door for all those parts. A fellow mievo.net member and I did this at his friends garage.
The dealers I talked to wanted about $650 for the install w/parts.
Last edited by Smike; Jan 31, 2007 at 08:23 AM.
For 03-05 Evos:
MR984375 - TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
MD326059 - TIMING BELT
MR984778 - BALANCER BELT
MD352473 - BALANCE TENSIONER
It was about $230 out the door for all those parts. A fellow mievo.net member and I did this at his friends garage.
The dealers I talked to wanted about $650 for the install w/parts.
MR984375 - TIMING BELT ADJUSTER
MD326059 - TIMING BELT
MR984778 - BALANCER BELT
MD352473 - BALANCE TENSIONER
It was about $230 out the door for all those parts. A fellow mievo.net member and I did this at his friends garage.
The dealers I talked to wanted about $650 for the install w/parts.
after talking to the mechanic he said it was really not necessary) and complete inspection which usually is free.
Timing belts can break or wear, period. Combine that with running with no tbelt cover on the gears and you wear it out faster from dirt, debris and oil.
The Gates timing belts are the best available and is what we run on our own car. They are not TOO RIGID or tight. The tightness is set by the tensioner and autotensioner and if its too tight, it is due to installer error as they overtightened the tensioner.
The Gates timing belts are the best available and is what we run on our own car. They are not TOO RIGID or tight. The tightness is set by the tensioner and autotensioner and if its too tight, it is due to installer error as they overtightened the tensioner.
I will just go ahead with the manual's recommendations. My mechanic said it is fine to follow and do the balancer belt and water pump at 120K. He says the b. belt most of the time does not go throug the same stress as the timing belt while being made a bit stronger (thicker). I can get the OEM belt from the dealer for $40 inc. tax.
Eva01
Eva01
Buck its a known thing man do the timing belt do the water pump and tensioners. Not just in the Evo but in all cars. Dont do it if you want but dont knock the people who do. Like I said its cheap insurance. I do have faith in my engine Preventative maintenence FTW. Your just saying all this cause your worried now that you didnt change it
Of course you beloved mitsu dealer will tell you not to use a stonger belt. Duh. Installation error on the ones he had at the shop that were frayed.
To each their own. I know Im good are you
Of course you beloved mitsu dealer will tell you not to use a stonger belt. Duh. Installation error on the ones he had at the shop that were frayed.
To each their own. I know Im good are you
Like I said I have seen failures in these parts as well (waterpumps, tensioners and belts before 100k) Screw what your dealer told you I know what Ive seen in 10 years wrenching on cars. I make sure it's not happening to my ish. The extra couple 100 is way worth my piece of mind.
Like I said Buck your just trying to justify your not changing the obvious. Ive got my fingers crossed for you buddy
Like I said Buck your just trying to justify your not changing the obvious. Ive got my fingers crossed for you buddy
Like I said I have seen failures in these parts as well (waterpumps, tensioners and belts before 100k) Screw what your dealer told you I know what Ive seen in 10 years wrenching on cars. I make sure it's not happening to my ish. The extra couple 100 is way worth my piece of mind.
Like I said Buck your just trying to justify your not changing the obvious. Ive got my fingers crossed for you buddy
Like I said Buck your just trying to justify your not changing the obvious. Ive got my fingers crossed for you buddy
I was never knocking anyone for replacing their parts. Buy a whole new car at 60k I don't care
.I was not aware your being part of Mitsubishi's engine development team for all these years and you're an automatic wealth of knowledge about engine part fatigue and your "Insurance." Your comments about "crossing your fingers for me" and "I only regret changing mine," Is a class act from a 10 year veteran
Good job for scaring a few more Evo owners to schedule their dealers first appointment to change all the parts that, not only my dealer, but the origional poster's dealer told him that is unnecessary
Last edited by BUCKNAKED; Feb 3, 2007 at 08:11 PM.
I didnt install the ones Ive seen fail jackass they were factory. Keep taking your car to the dealer to get worked on. For what I paid for my insurance you paid in labor smart guy. You dont even work on your own ish so you cannot relate any real life expierience. Your a tool.
Im not trying to scare anyone just stating the obvious. The tensioner is 100 bucks (well 200 for you since you would have the dealer install it). People are crazy not to change it
Im not trying to scare anyone just stating the obvious. The tensioner is 100 bucks (well 200 for you since you would have the dealer install it). People are crazy not to change it
I didnt install the ones Ive seen fail jackass they were factory. Keep taking your car to the dealer to get worked on. For what I paid for my insurance you paid in labor smart guy. You dont even work on your own ish so you cannot relate any real life expierience. Your a tool.
Im not trying to scare anyone just stating the obvious. The tensioner is 100 bucks (well 200 for you since you would have the dealer install it). People are crazy not to change it
Im not trying to scare anyone just stating the obvious. The tensioner is 100 bucks (well 200 for you since you would have the dealer install it). People are crazy not to change it







