so whats mitsubishi trying to say about evo drivers?
Out of all my comments you chose THAT one to quote?? ROFLMAO..
BTW I forgot to even mention the hand on the shifter thing, if you place a preload on the shifter (your hand) you can actually wear the selector forks and sliders which will in turn cause other problems. This is why mitsubishi uses rubber bushings, besides making it feel less notchy.
BTW I forgot to even mention the hand on the shifter thing, if you place a preload on the shifter (your hand) you can actually wear the selector forks and sliders which will in turn cause other problems. This is why mitsubishi uses rubber bushings, besides making it feel less notchy.
well.... the Evo is a SPORTS car .there for they made it to drive to thrill...
I'm 35 years old, i never had automatic in my whole life. My driving skill at least avarage. I had many sports car before ,and yes i had 4wd turbo charged rally car before.
Lancia Delta Integrale HF Turbo Evo2
Ford Escort Cosworth
Toyota Celica GT-R
All of them was hooked up ,and driven VERY hard. Even in the forest.I had no problem what so ever with those cars ,transmission wise./Only clutch change /
I got here the EVO 8 , 350 whp 330 WTQ. ^ months later my syncros start fading out. A year later they are gone./4-5 th/
Strangly enough i didn't drove that car that hard .Since here in America i have way less room to do it.
So do the meth.
I'm 35 years old, i never had automatic in my whole life. My driving skill at least avarage. I had many sports car before ,and yes i had 4wd turbo charged rally car before.
Lancia Delta Integrale HF Turbo Evo2
Ford Escort Cosworth
Toyota Celica GT-R
All of them was hooked up ,and driven VERY hard. Even in the forest.I had no problem what so ever with those cars ,transmission wise./Only clutch change /
I got here the EVO 8 , 350 whp 330 WTQ. ^ months later my syncros start fading out. A year later they are gone./4-5 th/
Strangly enough i didn't drove that car that hard .Since here in America i have way less room to do it.
So do the meth.
Two of my all time favorite rally cars.
One thing I miss about Subaru ownership was their understanding of how the car was gonna be used.
I was even able to get some minor aftermarket parts installed at the dealership without having to worry about the warranty.
It is a shame that despite the fact that both manufacturers are heavily involved in WRC with these cars, Mitsubishi refuses to stand behind evos.
They would rather blame the driver and refuse/void the warranty.
I love my evo.
I'm just not that impressed with Mitsubishi's customer service after the purchase.
hahaah... I went to the dealer to TRY to get my 5th gear synchro replaced. The service manager told me that you are not supposed to be shifting at red line. You are supposed to be shifting around 4k rpm because higher, the tires will spin... then he starts telling me stories about how professional drivers don't need to change gears without cluth, and on and on and on... i just got lost and ..WTF... Gotta love the serv man.
Besides hearing people posting this over and over, I have 50k on my car, still have the original clutch and have had no problems with my transmission. I will pretty much state outright that a majority of the problems people experience with their transmissions is their own doing. There are a few exceptions, but I've seen how people drive these cars, and how many inexperienced drivers get this car as their first manual transmission car, and how many "Seasoned" Manual drivers (who complain but never will admit that they rest their foot on the clutch pedal, and hill hold with the clutch) say the clutch and transmissions are crap.
Considering how many of these people complaining about problems have MODIFIED their cars, I'm also fairly certain their also driving them fairly hard.
Considering how many of these people complaining about problems have MODIFIED their cars, I'm also fairly certain their also driving them fairly hard.
from what i was told by mechanics, it is better to hold the clutch down because that way you only engauge it 2 times instead of 4, when ever you stop, thus doubling the life of your clutch.
example
slowing down and engauge the clutch 1
going to neutral
disengauging the clutch 2
the light goes green
engauge the clutch 3
going to first
disengauging the clutch to move 4
4 times
versus
slowing down and engauge the clutch 1
leaving it in first
the light goes green
disengauging the clutch 2
i was told that when your foot is either all the way down or completely off doesn't hurt the clutch what so ever, and so that leaving your foot down is better for clutch live vs engauging it a ton.
whats your take on this
Well, we're gonna see.... my '06 IX MR is in the dealer's shop as we speak. Second and third are beginning to grind. I too have owed alot of manual trans cars... Mustangs, Corvettes, a Dodge Aspen (yeah, I know), and a '03 Evo. I had the Mustangs back when I was a punk-*** kid and drove the livin' **** out of 'em and never had a problem. Same with the Corvettes. Last Corvette was HIGHLY modded (383 stroker, blower, head/cam package good for ~ 650 RWH) with a stock 6 speed trans, driving it hard every chance I had, welcoming all challenges....NO PROBLEMS. My '06 MR is as stock as the day it was built. I have not raced it (track, street or otherwise). The car has less than 4000 miles on it.
We will see.....
Mark
We will see.....
Mark
let me get some thing straight right here. you think or KNOW that when you stop at a light it is bad to hold the clutch down and leave it in first opposed to engauging the clutch, going to neutral, then disengauging the clutch.
from what i was told by mechanics, it is better to hold the clutch down because that way you only engauge it 2 times instead of 4, when ever you stop, thus doubling the life of your clutch.
example
slowing down and engauge the clutch 1
going to neutral
disengauging the clutch 2
the light goes green
engauge the clutch 3
going to first
disengauging the clutch to move 4
4 times
versus
slowing down and engauge the clutch 1
leaving it in first
the light goes green
disengauging the clutch 2
i was told that when your foot is either all the way down or completely off doesn't hurt the clutch what so ever, and so that leaving your foot down is better for clutch live vs engauging it a ton.
whats your take on this
from what i was told by mechanics, it is better to hold the clutch down because that way you only engauge it 2 times instead of 4, when ever you stop, thus doubling the life of your clutch.
example
slowing down and engauge the clutch 1
going to neutral
disengauging the clutch 2
the light goes green
engauge the clutch 3
going to first
disengauging the clutch to move 4
4 times
versus
slowing down and engauge the clutch 1
leaving it in first
the light goes green
disengauging the clutch 2
i was told that when your foot is either all the way down or completely off doesn't hurt the clutch what so ever, and so that leaving your foot down is better for clutch live vs engauging it a ton.
whats your take on this
we can talk about it as long as you guys want it, about wich is worst the tranny or the driver... It's basicly pointless, because i have a very simple point here.
Wich is : You guys who think: all because of the driver.. Seriusly you don't think, only bad drivers and few "good" ones buying Evos? Don't you?
How come way less, not even comparison we have less problem with STI ,350Z , SRT ,etc trannys? Those car buyed only experienced and "mature" drivers? Or maybe they have less HP? BS, the factory clutch is weak,period.
Wich is : You guys who think: all because of the driver.. Seriusly you don't think, only bad drivers and few "good" ones buying Evos? Don't you?
How come way less, not even comparison we have less problem with STI ,350Z , SRT ,etc trannys? Those car buyed only experienced and "mature" drivers? Or maybe they have less HP? BS, the factory clutch is weak,period.
thats a bunch of B.S My '06 gsr IX has been grinding second on a quick shift since about 2000 miles after I broke it in and started driving it like it is meant to be driven. I have been pretty upset about it since I know that even if I take it in I will still have problems maybe even more of them. I tried switching to the BG syncro shift fluid but that didnt really help other than smoother shifts when the fluid is cold in the trans. I guess I didn't buy a lexus though maybe it's just a normal charachteristic of the car just like my feathered tires at 1000 miles that the dealer didn't want to do anything with...Thats what the service manager @ my local mitsu dealer said when I complained, the sad thing is that I work for the same chain of dealers too
let me get some thing straight right here. you think or KNOW that when you stop at a light it is bad to hold the clutch down and leave it in first opposed to engauging the clutch, going to neutral, then disengauging the clutch.
from what i was told by mechanics, it is better to hold the clutch down...
from what i was told by mechanics, it is better to hold the clutch down...
Well, we're gonna see.... my '06 IX MR is in the dealer's shop as we speak. Second and third are beginning to grind. I too have owed alot of manual trans cars... Mustangs, Corvettes, a Dodge Aspen (yeah, I know), and a '03 Evo. I had the Mustangs back when I was a punk-*** kid and drove the livin' **** out of 'em and never had a problem. Same with the Corvettes. Last Corvette was HIGHLY modded (383 stroker, blower, head/cam package good for ~ 650 RWH) with a stock 6 speed trans, driving it hard every chance I had, welcoming all challenges....NO PROBLEMS. My '06 MR is as stock as the day it was built. I have not raced it (track, street or otherwise). The car has less than 4000 miles on it.
We will see.....
Mark
We will see.....
Mark
Last edited by John4321; Mar 21, 2007 at 05:17 PM.
thats pretty funny. i am misunderstood then. however if someone can seriously answer the question i posted earlier, i'd very much appreciate it
That is NOT what I said.. Many drivers rest their foot on the clutch pedal while driving instead of resting it on the dead pedal, this additional pressure can be enough to reduce the clamping pressure on the disk and allow it to slip slightly.
Anything that has a friction surface under pressure can wear over time, so its probably a good idea to not keep pressure on the throwout bearing and clutch fork any more than necessary. But that wasn't what I was referring to, but I will argue that your mechanic is misinformed, depending on the adjustment of your clutch, engaging it at a stop means there could still be some physical contact between the surfaces while their spinning and that could lead to wear. However this point is probably more of a preference since its unlikely you'd be sitting somewhere very long before you got tired enough to put the car in neutral anyway.
Anything that has a friction surface under pressure can wear over time, so its probably a good idea to not keep pressure on the throwout bearing and clutch fork any more than necessary. But that wasn't what I was referring to, but I will argue that your mechanic is misinformed, depending on the adjustment of your clutch, engaging it at a stop means there could still be some physical contact between the surfaces while their spinning and that could lead to wear. However this point is probably more of a preference since its unlikely you'd be sitting somewhere very long before you got tired enough to put the car in neutral anyway.
let me get some thing straight right here. you think or KNOW that when you stop at a light it is bad to hold the clutch down and leave it in first opposed to engauging the clutch, going to neutral, then disengauging the clutch.
from what i was told by mechanics, it is better to hold the clutch down because that way you only engauge it 2 times instead of 4, when ever you stop, thus doubling the life of your clutch.
example
slowing down and engauge the clutch 1
going to neutral
disengauging the clutch 2
the light goes green
engauge the clutch 3
going to first
disengauging the clutch to move 4
4 times
versus
slowing down and engauge the clutch 1
leaving it in first
the light goes green
disengauging the clutch 2
i was told that when your foot is either all the way down or completely off doesn't hurt the clutch what so ever, and so that leaving your foot down is better for clutch live vs engauging it a ton.
whats your take on this
from what i was told by mechanics, it is better to hold the clutch down because that way you only engauge it 2 times instead of 4, when ever you stop, thus doubling the life of your clutch.
example
slowing down and engauge the clutch 1
going to neutral
disengauging the clutch 2
the light goes green
engauge the clutch 3
going to first
disengauging the clutch to move 4
4 times
versus
slowing down and engauge the clutch 1
leaving it in first
the light goes green
disengauging the clutch 2
i was told that when your foot is either all the way down or completely off doesn't hurt the clutch what so ever, and so that leaving your foot down is better for clutch live vs engauging it a ton.
whats your take on this
thats a bunch of B.S My '06 gsr IX has been grinding second on a quick shift since about 2000 miles after I broke it in and started driving it like it is meant to be driven. I have been pretty upset about it since I know that even if I take it in I will still have problems maybe even more of them. I tried switching to the BG syncro shift fluid but that didnt really help other than smoother shifts when the fluid is cold in the trans. I guess I didn't buy a lexus though maybe it's just a normal charachteristic of the car just like my feathered tires at 1000 miles that the dealer didn't want to do anything with...Thats what the service manager @ my local mitsu dealer said when I complained, the sad thing is that I work for the same chain of dealers too
For what its worth, I'm sympathetic to people having problems, but I have seen the way many of the cars are driven once their broken in. And I'm in no way surprised to hear about mitsubishi not honoring warranty claims because they suspect abuse.







