EVO Vs. STi Handling
You're welcome to come down and play with us in Albuquerque. I regularly rent sandia motorsports (http://www.sandiamotorsports.com) at a bargain basement price.
...
...
...
wait for it.
$75/hr. That's PRIVATE rental, not track day time. It was a very economical way to set up my coilovers.
d
EDIT: speaking of which, there's an SCCA divisionals in northern NM this weekend. The SM-dominating subies are asking for some smack down, you should attend.
...
...
...
wait for it.
$75/hr. That's PRIVATE rental, not track day time. It was a very economical way to set up my coilovers.
d
EDIT: speaking of which, there's an SCCA divisionals in northern NM this weekend. The SM-dominating subies are asking for some smack down, you should attend.
Last edited by donour; Apr 11, 2007 at 04:12 PM.
Here's a comparison MRT and Whiteline did on both the STi and the EVO on various categories, but they show some good comments on the behavior exhibited by both cars.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=plJ6MzWcQGc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=plJ6MzWcQGc
Donour, that's like 350 miles away, though. I have PMI 45 mins away open almost every weekday for $60 (half-day) or $100 (full day) with no reservation or rental. That's still not the same as unlimited track time, but it's definitely a luxury.
I'd love to run SCCA TT, but they require a cage for SM class, which sucks.
It's New Mexico -- everything is 300 miles away. Even for the "locals", read albuquerque, it's >200 miles. It's worth it for the experience: big lot, lots of runs, low entry fee, good competition.
Is that a track day or private rental. At sandia, they literally lock the gate behind us. Nobody can even get in to spectate unless I approve them. This was very important when I was tuning as I spun a LOT. It would not have been safe with other people on track.
d
I have PMI 45 mins away open almost every weekday for $60 (half-day) or $100 (full day) with no reservation or rental. That's still not the same as unlimited track time, but it's definitely a luxury.
d
It's not a rental, but there's almost no one there unless a group happens to plan to go all on the same day. When I went with Paul, there were maybe 6 cars total the whole day. On the days I go, I go with a group, so we have maybe 10 or so. It's possible to go and be the only one there.
The only time I planned to go to Sandia was when we have our NASA event down there in the Fall.
The only time I planned to go to Sandia was when we have our NASA event down there in the Fall.
It's not a rental, but there's almost no one there unless a group happens to plan to go all on the same day. When I went with Paul, there were maybe 6 cars total the whole day. On the days I go, I go with a group, so we have maybe 10 or so. It's possible to go and be the only one there.
d
EDIT: wow, we're really offtopic now.
Last edited by donour; Apr 11, 2007 at 07:41 PM.
I love this thread. To the guy that said STIs aren't fast in time attacks: Look up the Crawford STI. It is really fast for being nearly full weight. That said, what else can I do?
I'm running:
Vishnu/Gerrard spect Ohlins with 550f/650r springs
Stock sway bars front and rear (rear bar has Perrin end links and Energy bushings)
Rear trailing arm bushings
Rear lower shock mount bushings
One mod that comes to mind is to re-install the 25mm Progress rear adjustable sway bar (free mod - it is laying in my garage) and then drill holes about 3/4 of an inch in on my front sway bar and remount the links there to increase overall roll stiffness (free mod, but lots of drilling of really hard steel). I figure that since the rear bar is adjustable, we can dial the balance back in with that. My guess would be that the rear bar would definitely have to be on the stiffest setting to balance out the additional stiffness of the front.
Your ideas welcome...
I'm running:
Vishnu/Gerrard spect Ohlins with 550f/650r springs
Stock sway bars front and rear (rear bar has Perrin end links and Energy bushings)
Rear trailing arm bushings
Rear lower shock mount bushings
One mod that comes to mind is to re-install the 25mm Progress rear adjustable sway bar (free mod - it is laying in my garage) and then drill holes about 3/4 of an inch in on my front sway bar and remount the links there to increase overall roll stiffness (free mod, but lots of drilling of really hard steel). I figure that since the rear bar is adjustable, we can dial the balance back in with that. My guess would be that the rear bar would definitely have to be on the stiffest setting to balance out the additional stiffness of the front.
Your ideas welcome...
TEST ROUND #2 ****UPDATE****
Installed:
1) AMS Rear Trailing Arm Delrin Bushings EVO VII/VIII/IX
2) Whiteline EVO VII/VIII/IX Bump steer correction kit
Products can be found at:
http://www.amsperformance.com/store/...Path=22_55_291
Great news!
For only for bushings being installed, what a difference! Now we're getting the mid-corner "feel" we're looking for. The mid-corner push when the car is at full roll/lean has been greatly reduced. Lap times were consistant mid 1:41's and the fastest was a 1:41.3. Previously it was consistant 1:42's and fastest was a 1:41.9.
So for under $150 dollars, we've taken the right approach toward fixing a problem rather than a band-aid fix. Remember, we havn't added any front grip or reduced the rear grip by adding a bar or dialing in toe out or stiffer springs. This is all with the stock MR suspension.
Smogrunner, I would recommend this upgrade, it should work great with your setup or any setup for that matter. It is fixing the the geometry in the rear reducing toe-in bump when the car is compressing. Try this first, then add the bar if you like.
Next up is the front roll center correction kit. Then a bar. Step by step we'll be giving you guys the info.
Installed:
1) AMS Rear Trailing Arm Delrin Bushings EVO VII/VIII/IX
2) Whiteline EVO VII/VIII/IX Bump steer correction kit
Products can be found at:
http://www.amsperformance.com/store/...Path=22_55_291
Great news!
For only for bushings being installed, what a difference! Now we're getting the mid-corner "feel" we're looking for. The mid-corner push when the car is at full roll/lean has been greatly reduced. Lap times were consistant mid 1:41's and the fastest was a 1:41.3. Previously it was consistant 1:42's and fastest was a 1:41.9.
So for under $150 dollars, we've taken the right approach toward fixing a problem rather than a band-aid fix. Remember, we havn't added any front grip or reduced the rear grip by adding a bar or dialing in toe out or stiffer springs. This is all with the stock MR suspension.
Smogrunner, I would recommend this upgrade, it should work great with your setup or any setup for that matter. It is fixing the the geometry in the rear reducing toe-in bump when the car is compressing. Try this first, then add the bar if you like.
Next up is the front roll center correction kit. Then a bar. Step by step we'll be giving you guys the info.
Great Job Lawrence and Martin. Since my cone killing days are over maybe i'll have to step it up to the track days this year. Lawrence, I could use your coaching when i get my car out on the track...
These parts are a must.
These parts are a must.
Thanks, and nice review!! Most consider the STI to have a bit more understeer than the Evo, so this seems very strange to hear the exact opposite. Perhaps the temperatures had something to do with it (tires having less grip)? Personally I think both cars are superb, are truly marvels in automotive engineering.
Nice post..keep it up
TEST ROUND #2 ****UPDATE****
Installed:
1) AMS Rear Trailing Arm Delrin Bushings EVO VII/VIII/IX
2) Whiteline EVO VII/VIII/IX Bump steer correction kit
Products can be found at:
http://www.amsperformance.com/store/...Path=22_55_291
Great news!
For only for bushings being installed, what a difference! Now we're getting the mid-corner "feel" we're looking for.
Installed:
1) AMS Rear Trailing Arm Delrin Bushings EVO VII/VIII/IX
2) Whiteline EVO VII/VIII/IX Bump steer correction kit
Products can be found at:
http://www.amsperformance.com/store/...Path=22_55_291
Great news!
For only for bushings being installed, what a difference! Now we're getting the mid-corner "feel" we're looking for.
Do you have any type of write-up for the install? Since I live in an apartment, any type of mod installs are a pain the the ***.... I guess it requires at least the rear control arm removal? Maybe a torch to get rid of the old bushing? Also, what'd you align the rear to? Thanks!





