EVO Vs. STi Handling
The evo did handle better, better feel, but had this nasty mid corner push which delayed getting on the gas. Add that to the nice down low tq of a suby motor, you can see why it was a tick off. Now its much better!
I wouldnt trade it for a any Subaru personally.
I wouldnt trade it for a any Subaru personally.
What would you recommend for autocross?
Luda,
I kinda agree.
The fist step is to decide what you'll be doing with the car.
Fixing the geometry is a must IMHO. Its an EZ way of make the car work better.
But I don’t have any reason to replace the front diff. The rear diff maybe.
I did however, finally, get the Whiteline R/C kit on the car. At the same time, I decided to install a set of springs that were given to me for testing by Robispec. These are his (yet to be released) street/track springs. I figured the R/C kit really is a fix for lowered evos, to raise the r/c back above the ground, and we’d see more of a benefit on a lowered car.
The results are fantastic! Nice soft ride for daily driving and a turn chewing, apex eating trackday car. The R/C kit was obvious immediately. Less roll and mid corner push is almost eliminated. The car just shoots toward the apex, rotates on demand and puts the power down. This allows to get on the gas much earlier, therefore faster.
Keep in mind this is all with stock shocks, stock sway bars, no chassis stiffening and street tires. It would rotate on demand with plenty mid corner grip. Much better than stock, no comparision really.
IMHO “must haves” for any lowered/trackday/street evo:
Whiteline rear bumpsteer kit
Whiteline front R/C kit
AMS rear trailing arm bushings
And a good alighnment
Motul 600
PFC 97’s
Ams Brake Duct kit
Products can be found at:
http://www.amsperformance.com/store/...Path=22_55_291
The above with an addition with an AMS flash, TBE, etc. Is more than enough for 95% of evo owners to really push their limits on the track and learn how to really drive the track.
Modesty aside, there wasn’t a single car that passed or caught my Evo with the above mods.
But an addition of a AMS GT3076, cams, VSR, and intercooler would sure make it a lot faster!
Then maybe some shocks, then aero….. O’geez. 
Hope this info helps everyone to make a decision on what to do first and especially those on a budget.
Happy Motoring!!!
I kinda agree.
The fist step is to decide what you'll be doing with the car.
Fixing the geometry is a must IMHO. Its an EZ way of make the car work better.
But I don’t have any reason to replace the front diff. The rear diff maybe.
I did however, finally, get the Whiteline R/C kit on the car. At the same time, I decided to install a set of springs that were given to me for testing by Robispec. These are his (yet to be released) street/track springs. I figured the R/C kit really is a fix for lowered evos, to raise the r/c back above the ground, and we’d see more of a benefit on a lowered car.
The results are fantastic! Nice soft ride for daily driving and a turn chewing, apex eating trackday car. The R/C kit was obvious immediately. Less roll and mid corner push is almost eliminated. The car just shoots toward the apex, rotates on demand and puts the power down. This allows to get on the gas much earlier, therefore faster.
Keep in mind this is all with stock shocks, stock sway bars, no chassis stiffening and street tires. It would rotate on demand with plenty mid corner grip. Much better than stock, no comparision really.
IMHO “must haves” for any lowered/trackday/street evo:
Whiteline rear bumpsteer kit
Whiteline front R/C kit
AMS rear trailing arm bushings
And a good alighnment
Motul 600
PFC 97’s
Ams Brake Duct kit
Products can be found at:
http://www.amsperformance.com/store/...Path=22_55_291
The above with an addition with an AMS flash, TBE, etc. Is more than enough for 95% of evo owners to really push their limits on the track and learn how to really drive the track.
Modesty aside, there wasn’t a single car that passed or caught my Evo with the above mods.
But an addition of a AMS GT3076, cams, VSR, and intercooler would sure make it a lot faster!
Then maybe some shocks, then aero….. O’geez. Hope this info helps everyone to make a decision on what to do first and especially those on a budget.
Happy Motoring!!!
The above parts are great for autocross too. Really anywhere youd like a better handling EVO. 
Even for those occasional on/off ramps. 
Even for those occasional on/off ramps.
Last edited by LDOGGYDIZZLE; Jul 8, 2007 at 05:26 PM.
I have spent way more time in an STi then an evo, so I dont really recall the evo's handling. Reading this info, I am curious to know if that 'mid corner push' you are referring to is coming from torque steer. Could that be the reason for the push?
No.
Torque steer is when you have a car with front axles that are different in length. Think Dodge Omni Turbo. When boost hit, you had to turn the steering wheel almost a 1/4 turn to keep it going straight. Now thats torque steer!
The actual "reason" for the mid corner understeer has alot to do with the suspension geometry. Can be as little as OE alighnment Vs. track alighnment. The above products help the geometry.
Torque steer is when you have a car with front axles that are different in length. Think Dodge Omni Turbo. When boost hit, you had to turn the steering wheel almost a 1/4 turn to keep it going straight. Now thats torque steer!
The actual "reason" for the mid corner understeer has alot to do with the suspension geometry. Can be as little as OE alighnment Vs. track alighnment. The above products help the geometry.
It requires removal and replacment of the tie rods and lower ball joints. Then you need to re-align the car. Nothing special and real EZ on a new car where everything just comes apart so easily.
DO IT!!!!!!!!
DO IT!!!!!!!!
My Evo handled better stock than my WRX or STi ever did even with Tein Flex coilovers and strut bars and other chassis stiffening. And now that my Evo is Robispec'd... Well...
Vostok 7
Vostok 7
the ball joint in the lower control arm must be pressed out (press)
the tie rod end must be removed from the spindle (ball joint tool)
& you have to remove & replace the tie rod ends (alignment)
Wow .. that install sounds like a chore. It's gotta be done though =) Is there really a need for a specific press or could one be fabricated with a C-clamp or something similar?
BTW, thanks for this thread. I've learned a lot from it and I'm taking your suggestions to help set up my car for auto-x.
BTW, thanks for this thread. I've learned a lot from it and I'm taking your suggestions to help set up my car for auto-x.
