I have a new 2006 EVO MR. I just hit 1100 miles recently, so I figured today would be a good day to change my drive train fluids. I picked up the Diaqueen LSD oil, Diaqueen Super Multi Gear oil, and a case of ENEOS 0W-50 engine oil along with an OEM filter and crush washer.

Drove over to my buddies house this morning since I don't have a garage. Got the car jacked up (front end on ramps, rear on stands), and proceeded to begin with the engine oil.

Filter was overtightened from the factory.. it took a lot of force to get it off. Then once I removed the oil pan drain bolt, the oil came gushing out like crazy... it was too much for my little 7 qt. oil pan to take in at once, and I proceeded to get almost 3 quarts of oil all over the street. This is the beginning of my bad day.

Spent about an hour cleaning the mess up, and once done I proceeded to finish with the engine. Got the new OEM filter on without problem, and was about to retighten the oil drain bolt when I realized that the factory did not use a crush washer. In fact, I noticed there was some oil residue near the drain hole before I began. I don't know if there isn't supposed to be a crush washer there since my MR has an oil temp sender in the plug vs. regular IX's.. but I decided to use one anyway.

Next I proceeded to drain the front transfer case oil, which went without problem. I then moved to the rear diff, and drained and filled without issue. Before I forget, I'm glad I was able to get this done because even after 1000 miles of regular driving, the magnetic drain bolts had alot of sludge caked up around them. All drivetrain fluids were dark and thick also.

Finally, I tried looking for the transmission drain and fill bolts. I couldn't find them at first. I studied my printout from evomoto and realized that the pictures taken were of the 5 speed transmission, and not the 6 speed. After doing a quick search on my friend's laptop I finally found the bolts (10mm hex). I saved filling the transmission last since I only had one fluid pump.

At this point, I'm dirty, tired, and have a headache. I proceeded to fill the engine with 4 quarts of ENEOS. I lowered the rear end, started the engine, and slowly came off the ramps. I let the engine idle for another 10 seconds, then shut it off. I checked the oil level, and it was well below the minimum hash. I then put in another 1/2 quart of oil, started the engine and let it idle for a few seconds, then shut it off again. Oil level was about half way between the hash marks. I probably should have left well enough alone at this point. I then took the half empty bottle of oil, and proceeded to put in a tad more. Checked the dipstick again, and this time oil level was dead even on the max line.

I drove home, and once parked checked my oil level one last time. This time oil level is about 2-3mm above the full mark. I probably put in 4.8 quarts of oil today, so I don't know why it's showing as slightly overfilled. I did not add oil to the oil filter, so I should be right at max. 2-3mm won't be an issue with the 4G63 right? Worse come to worse, I have an oil extractor that I used for my M3 and I'll go siphon some of the oil out.. but if I don't have too, I won't. Also, seeing as the EVO doesn't have a dry sump system, 2-3mm over full should actually be beneficial?

Besides the slight overfill, the car drives alot smoother. Engine response is very smooth with the Eneos 0W-50. In fact, I can tell the difference between this and the factory fill 10W-30. The engine idles a lot smoother, and winds up through the rpm range with a lot more ease. I think it was a good decision to go with the ENEOS.

Anyway, what are your thoughts on the slight over-fill? As I mentioned before, it's only 2 or 3mm above max. I also know dipsticks are just a rough measuring device, and not known to be completly accurate. I should be fine right?

 

Not sure how you overfilled a 7qt pan with used oil.

I do know that the dipstick reading is awfully sensitive to the car's level. I made a thread not too long after I first changed my oil and was about to have a heart attack because I thought I went about 1 qt over. Rechecked it on a flatter surface and all was well. So if the car is on a relatively flat road/surface and it's still giving you the over reading then you can drain some out. Don't think your engine's going to immediately explode, but if you have the means why not remove it.

 

Why on earth would you change anything but the oil dude? I wouldn't have done that until atleast 15k.

 

ya that makes no sence

 

With my M3, I changed tranny and diff oil at 1200 miles per manufacturer recommendation. I figured changing the drive train fluids on the Evo wouldn't hurt either... and in this case, I'm glad I did. The tranny, diff, and t-case oil was very dark, and there was a lot of sludge and magnetic residue around the drain bolts.

As for the oil overflowing.. my 7 qt drain pan has a small hole in the pan. The amount of oil coming out of the engine was more than enough volume to drain into the oil catch pan. So quite a bit overflowed... think of a plugged up sink, and you'll get the idea.

 

overkill

 

i over filled my engine by about 2 mm when i did my first oil change, i think it's fine... but why u change all the other fluid?? i don't think u need it till 15k miles.

 

haha... dude you had like a year before you had to touch that. (other than engine oil) anyway if you are that worried just do another oil change.

 

Well, as stated before I thought it would be a good idea to change drive train oil after initial break-in. I've done it with every car I've owned, and was always surprised how much crap (metal shavings) end up draining out. It's just a preventive measure. Now that it's done, I won't change the drivetrain fluids for another 15K miles.

 

The evo isn't an M3 so going by BMW service recommendations for an Evo makes no sense.
And I changed my tranny, t-case, rear diff at an even 20k miles with the oil not sludgy like you mentioned on your Evo, but then again I don't abuse mine.

 

Well.. I guess I over reacted. Went out and checked the oil level again after letting the car sit for about an hour. Oil level is right at the top of the full mark, or just a hair over; nothing to worry about. I guess I was getting erroneous readings earlier... perhaps some oil residue in the dipstick tube.

 

if the guy wants to change is drive train fluids early WHO CARES

jesus give the man some slack

the more the better it isn't going to hurt

glad you got it all resolved brohan

 

Thanks.

Not sure why everyone was making a big deal out of me changing my drive train fluids early. It won't hurt a thing, and I rest assured knowing that most of the metal shavings from break-in have been removed.

P.S. I plan on changing drive train fluids after every track event. I wonder if people here would give me a hard time about that too? Ignorance is bliss...

 

^^i agree..hell if i had money coming out of my a$$ i'd have a shop change my eng oil, rear, front, and center diff oils, lubricate my doors, hood and trunk, and gas door every 3k miles

 

Gas door? That would be a first for me.