The "Official" Evo Modding for Dummies
TRANSFER CASE
The transfer case on the Evo 8/9 is under a lot of stress. It gets very hot because the downpipe runs right next to it. This is especially true if you run your car hard regularly at track days or even autocross events.
There are more than one opinion on what the "best" fluid to use is, but the OEM Diaqueen fluid is a good choice for a daily driver. Not a bad idea to change the transfer case fluid every other oil change, despite this being a shorter interval than what the factory recommends.
IMPORTANT: Getting the right amount (i.e., enough) fluid back in can be tricky, especially on Evos with ACD (Active Center Diff). Here are two how-tos on refilling the T-case:
http://www.teamrip.com/transfer_case...tion_info.html
http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/t-case-filling
Just like with engine oil, it doesn't really matter how awesome the fluid is, or how clean or dirty it is, if you are 50% low on the AMOUNT of the oil, so properly refilling your transfer case is of utmost importance.
Keep in mind that the oil in the transfer case doesn't just provide lubrication; it also plays an essential role in controlling heat. When the transfer case is low on fluid, it also gets much hotter than it's supposed to, which further compounds the abuse on an already highly-stressed component. The transfer case is expensive to rebuild or replace, plus it's not fun to remove/reinstall, so you need to prioritize taking good care of it.
REAR DIFFERENTIAL
The Evo comes with an OEM rear LSD (limited slip differential). As compared to an open differential, it does a better job of putting down power when the car is cornering and the inside tire has less weight on it. However, the OEM diff will quickly wear out with use, especially if you've upped the power output of your Evo substantially.
If you're using your Evo for autocross or track driving, you can make a substantial improvement in the car's ability to power out of corners (and therefore not understeer as badly) by having your rear differential rebuild or upgraded. If you're mostly drag racing, the rear diff doesn't have as hard of a job, since the car squats and puts an almost-equal amount of weight on both rear tires, but you might still see improvements with a rear diff upgrade. You can also replace the OEM differential with an aftermarket unit, but this is a more expensive option.
Two place to have your rear diff rebuilt:
http://www.teamrip.com/EVOLUTION%20R...20SERVICE.html
http://www.sheptrans.com/diffservice/index.htm
Once you have your rear diff upgraded, you can further finetune its performance with the fluid you use in it. Believe it or not, this makes a HUGE difference in the lockup characteristics of the diff. Using Redline 80w-140 NS (as Jon @ TRE recommends for drag junkies, trackday whoring or autocross warrior use) will make a night and day difference in how much the rear diff locks as compared to using OEM Diaqueen fluid. The fluid also directly affects how much noise the diff will make. More locking = more noise. Sorry, can't have your cake and eat it too.
There is a ton of useful (and thought-provoking) information about Evo drivetrains at the two websites below:
http://www.teamrip.com/faq.htm
http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pages/faq
Obviously, some of what is stated here are opinions, not irrefutable fact. However, I think it's fair to say since these statements and opinions are from two very experienced drivetrain shops, they are at least informed opinions with direct, real-world experience behind them. So to me, that's worth a lot. But I'm sure there are plenty of people who would disagree with some of their statements or recommendations.
Last edited by EGbeater; Dec 23, 2010 at 11:19 AM.
Concerning these transfer case services, seems like I'm being scared into wanting to take it to the dealer to do the fluid change. I just got an 03 w/o acd so my question is how many people are using the drain hole as opposed to the fill hole to refill the fluid? using that drain hole method seems like a real pain in the ***, so would it be just as good to use the fill hole and keep letting it settle then adding more fluid till I reach about a quart, then drive around the block and recheck? also is the rear diff this much of a pain in the *** to do as well? thanks







