Hey everyone, thought i'd share my new gauges with everyone......enjoy


Also, i know some of you are experiencing your boost gauge reading nothing when you turn on the car. In the next pic, the red circle shows where to tap when tapping to your fuel pressure regulator line, and the yellow circle shows where not to. the reason is because the line with the yellow circle around it has to go through a valve, that opens and closes, before it reaches the fuel regulator, whereas the line with the red circle is before that valve. hope that helps some people.

 

sorry it's not to clear, i'm not good at resizing. here is the pic for the vacuum lines.......

 

THat's where i orginally tapped mine. I took fireball's advice and tap on the hose coming from the BOV to the intake mainfold. No problems so far

 

i was going to do that, but just decided to go with the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator.

 

Suit yourself. Go to a track event where 90% of the time your at wide open throttle. You'll then see your boost read zero THe problem is that the solenoid is closed at WOT "it takes some effort for it to do that but it does". That is what the tech told me when I've encounter the boost guage problem since i'm running the factory guages.

I have not encounter a problem yet running off the BOV. With less than overly agressive driving the fpr hookup actually works fine and a great source of vaccuum. The problem is when you floor it for a long peiord of time and no more boost readout from the guage

 

wouldnt that be boost re-circulating to the intake manifold so the reading wouldn be accurate as to what crane is indicating is where boost is about to meet with the fpr after the valve,so reading would be more accurate.

 

I have mine tapped there and it has NEVER read zero when it's supposed to show boost. I have been to 3 or 4 track events with it also. It is reads just fine at WOT.

 

Good for you. Just sharing my experience It stops working and then reworks. I thought something is wrong with my guage so i talked to the mitsubishi tech took their advice as same as a fellow members and then so far no prob. If it works dont' worry about it.

 

gtr where did tap into the lines for your stock boost gauge? I've wondered where they connected in for the stock gauge setup.

 

I actually did it myself but I thought my guage was defective so I called parts. They said any source of vaccum but the FPR is a bad idea due to the closing of the solenoid at WOT. I have no idea but that's what he said. If the FPR works for you cool. Let us know because mine work 95% of the time.

If my guage is really defective it will read zero again. I'm glad it hasn't for 4 weeks but i'll keep everyone posted if it fails and due to my guage. The instruction from the OEM guage shows a boost line from the intake mainfold but I could not locate the wire in the diagram. Our is probably different but i'm running a line from the BOV to the intake mainfold.

 

no, i believe that where i tapped is before the solenoid (red circle), so i don't have to worry about it opening and closing, thus giving me false readings (i.e. zero boost). the yellow circle indicates the vacuum line after the solenoid, which if you tapped there may give you zero reading even though you are on boost.

anyway, that is my guess as to why sometimes people's boost gauges read zero.

I'll keep you updated if i ever have the problem with my boost gauge.

 

SouthernCrane, where did you get that gauge panel from?
Is that the relocation kit from the dealer? Looks cool.
Thanks

 

hey 3K glad you like it, here is what you will need to do this:

mitsu part number: MZ598263EX
you will need this to relocate stereo to lower DIN

mitsu part number: MR117067 (aka eclipse radio deletion cover)
that is the cover that you will need to cut holes through

 

SouthernCrane, Thanks for the info. Will call the dealer now.

 

good luck