Well, I'm thinking a leak test is probably in order. I'm going to replace my evap purge valve, or whatever the thing on the intake manifold is that has some tubing running back to the evap, and see if it goes away....I hate to start replacing stuff, but I'm thinkin maybe I damaged it when doing a boost leak check.

If yours just happened all of the sudden, it really could be anything...bad valve, bad evap tank, cracked tubes going to it...

I had this small thought of buying a vacuum pump to test my evap valve, but that seems too logical. I still may do that though. Also, I really want to hook up my air compressor and put like 3-4 psi into my evap tank and see if it holds pressure...but I know that's stupid, since there is gas in there and I'm just asking to blow something up. Smoke machines are the way to go I hear, but I haven't checked around town for anyone who has one.

 

I'm dealing with this now. Hope I get it sorted. This thread helps with a bit of direction.

 

Fixed mine. I had a small leak in the fuel tank. Dropped it and sealed it up, no more code.

 

Bringing this back from the dead.

I have the same fault code, I will need to pass my emission test in March, so I have time. I have smoke tested the system and found no difinitive leaks. My question is I can smell very strong fuel vapor from around the carbon canister area during refueling. The car is a Georgia car so I'm not concerned with corrosion, all hoses are intact and properly connected, and the canister itself doesn't seem to be damaged. I'm not quite sure how the system works during key off engine off and refueling, but I'm wondering if there is a check valve for a vent line that is stuck open, hince the strong fuel vapor smell. Has anyone else experienced this? If not I will post my finding when I get this resolved.

 

The evap system tottaly eliminates fuel vapors as a source of pollution by sealing off the fuel system from the atmosphere. Vent lines from the fuel tank route vapors to the evap storage canister, where they are traped and stored for later when the engine is started. when the motor is warm and you are driving the pcm will open the purge valve allowing the vapors to be siphoned fromt he canister into the intake mani where then they are burned off in the motor.

The obd monitor runs once per drive cycle and only when the gas tank is 15-85% full, It uses the purge flow sensor to detect the leaks.
If the OBD evap monitor detects a leak when it runs a evap leak check it will set a code/MIL/CEL

The most common problem is the evap purge control or vent solenoid.

There could possibly be a leak somewhere in the Canister, I know on dsm's there is a check valve on the vent line from the tank. But if you are having issues with "wooshing" noise air being exurted from the tank when removing the gas cap then poor venting would be the suspect of that.

 

Any final solution for this..?
I'm starting to have this issue now..