60k service difficulty?
Just use those metal paper clip / chip clip things to hold the belt in place on the cam gears.

I've been using these things for years and they work perfect.
As far as the tensioner compressor tool (long threaded one)... If you need one, let me know. I have a few of them.
I've been using these things for years and they work perfect.
As far as the tensioner compressor tool (long threaded one)... If you need one, let me know. I have a few of them.
Try it if you have time.
I like this tool also in addition to the others mentioned:
http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/a...ment-tool.html
Also, you could buy the service manual CD off ebay with technical notes. Comes in handy at times.
The only reason people come to me and get belts done is that, either they don't want to screw it up because they have no mechanical ability or they just don't have the time.Heck, It might take them 2 days as it will take me a couple hours.
Good luck.
I like this tool also in addition to the others mentioned:
http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/a...ment-tool.html
Also, you could buy the service manual CD off ebay with technical notes. Comes in handy at times.
The only reason people come to me and get belts done is that, either they don't want to screw it up because they have no mechanical ability or they just don't have the time.Heck, It might take them 2 days as it will take me a couple hours.
Good luck.
Buy the tool that holds the cam sprockets in place. Without this tool or something else rigged up to hold the cam sprockets against valve spring tension, the timing belt tends to jump at the crank sprocket as you adjust tension at the tensioner pulley. Also, get the tool with the two pins for turning the center of the tensioner pulley.
Buy a package to plastic disposable drinking cups. As you remove a part, place all the fasteners from that parts in a cup and label it.
I made a tool that keeps the crank from turning while removing the crank bolt. The other end of this uses a bolt hole where the accessory belt tensioner mounts. BTW, removing the crank bolt is best done with an air wrench.
You need a good floor jack, one you trust and one that does not leak down. To remove certain bolts you will be lifting or lowering the engine. You need jack stands.
With all the timing marks on both belts lined up, paint marks on the sprockets and onto the old belts. Transfer the marks to the new belts. If you don't turn any of the sprockets, when the new belts go on and the marks line up, you are gold.
If you have read the above and are thinking, “This is too much stuff and trouble.”, then take it to a shop. Otherwise, have a go at it. There is a first time for everything.
Buy a package to plastic disposable drinking cups. As you remove a part, place all the fasteners from that parts in a cup and label it.
I made a tool that keeps the crank from turning while removing the crank bolt. The other end of this uses a bolt hole where the accessory belt tensioner mounts. BTW, removing the crank bolt is best done with an air wrench.
You need a good floor jack, one you trust and one that does not leak down. To remove certain bolts you will be lifting or lowering the engine. You need jack stands.
With all the timing marks on both belts lined up, paint marks on the sprockets and onto the old belts. Transfer the marks to the new belts. If you don't turn any of the sprockets, when the new belts go on and the marks line up, you are gold.
If you have read the above and are thinking, “This is too much stuff and trouble.”, then take it to a shop. Otherwise, have a go at it. There is a first time for everything.
As far as parts go I was not going to skimp out and only do the T belt, I was going to buy the entire 60k service kit and do it all the right way. Even if I were to take it to someone (other than a dealership) I would have bought the entire kit and had it all replaced.
Having said that time is not an issue as far as getting the car up and going because I have third vehicle that I drive around as my DD now, of course that is the beater Subaru. So even if it takes me a full weekend of working on it I am not stressed over that.
Even on oil changes I still take my time and do everything at a relaxed pace to make sure I am doing everything right. Nothing worries me more than messing up one of my vehicles, so I make sure I take my time and do it to the best of my abilities.
My concern was that it might be a bit much for the average guy even though the write-ups made it look doable. After reading some of this and seeing some of the helpful tools. I am certainly leaning toward the doing it myself (to the 36 year old guy I am right there with you in age lol).
Like I said in the OP I still have some time I am just getting myself prepared for what will be done. I hate waiting until the last second to figure out what I am doing. I prefer to go at things with a plan and even a backup plan if I have the time to do that.
Thanks for all the input so far. Hopefully with money saved I can put that toward a different turbo or larger FMIC or whatever else.
Raist
Having said that time is not an issue as far as getting the car up and going because I have third vehicle that I drive around as my DD now, of course that is the beater Subaru. So even if it takes me a full weekend of working on it I am not stressed over that.
Even on oil changes I still take my time and do everything at a relaxed pace to make sure I am doing everything right. Nothing worries me more than messing up one of my vehicles, so I make sure I take my time and do it to the best of my abilities.
My concern was that it might be a bit much for the average guy even though the write-ups made it look doable. After reading some of this and seeing some of the helpful tools. I am certainly leaning toward the doing it myself (to the 36 year old guy I am right there with you in age lol).
Like I said in the OP I still have some time I am just getting myself prepared for what will be done. I hate waiting until the last second to figure out what I am doing. I prefer to go at things with a plan and even a backup plan if I have the time to do that.
Thanks for all the input so far. Hopefully with money saved I can put that toward a different turbo or larger FMIC or whatever else.
Raist
Buy the tool that holds the cam sprockets in place. Without this tool or something else rigged up to hold the cam sprockets against valve spring tension, the timing belt tends to jump at the crank sprocket as you adjust tension at the tensioner pulley. Also, get the tool with the two pins for turning the center of the tensioner pulley.
Buy a package to plastic disposable drinking cups. As you remove a part, place all the fasteners from that parts in a cup and label it.
I made a tool that keeps the crank from turning while removing the crank bolt. The other end of this uses a bolt hole where the accessory belt tensioner mounts. BTW, removing the crank bolt is best done with an air wrench.
You need a good floor jack, one you trust and one that does not leak down. To remove certain bolts you will be lifting or lowering the engine. You need jack stands.
With all the timing marks on both belts lined up, paint marks on the sprockets and onto the old belts. Transfer the marks to the new belts. If you don't turn any of the sprockets, when the new belts go on and the marks line up, you are gold.
If you have read the above and are thinking, “This is too much stuff and trouble.”, then take it to a shop. Otherwise, have a go at it. There is a first time for everything.
Buy a package to plastic disposable drinking cups. As you remove a part, place all the fasteners from that parts in a cup and label it.
I made a tool that keeps the crank from turning while removing the crank bolt. The other end of this uses a bolt hole where the accessory belt tensioner mounts. BTW, removing the crank bolt is best done with an air wrench.
You need a good floor jack, one you trust and one that does not leak down. To remove certain bolts you will be lifting or lowering the engine. You need jack stands.
With all the timing marks on both belts lined up, paint marks on the sprockets and onto the old belts. Transfer the marks to the new belts. If you don't turn any of the sprockets, when the new belts go on and the marks line up, you are gold.
If you have read the above and are thinking, “This is too much stuff and trouble.”, then take it to a shop. Otherwise, have a go at it. There is a first time for everything.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ElectrIX Blue
Evo Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain
6
Jan 24, 2014 01:33 PM




