i used to run 1000cc and the walbro 255.. 395awhp on a dynojet.

cams are not needed for the IX's on the stock turbo unless your into the sound. I would invest in a clutch instead... also a good o2 housing and ported exhaust/intake manifolds are a plus

 

Already have megan 02 housing and exhaust mani. Intake mani will be part of the build.

 

Check this out: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ml#post8815412

 

Forget the 1450's and just go with 1000's. I made 415whp and 390wtq on GST's Mustang dyno. My block vented after 2 years on a E-85 tune. Number 4 rod snapped in half and exited the block. Torque is the limiting factor not HP as much. I ran a FP green(non HTA) turbo.

 

excited the block?

 

Yup like left the building blown up.

You can only beat on something so long before stuff starts to break, even at a "safe" level. part fatigue starts to play a role when hp is upped beyond what it was originally designed to hold, just part of the game.

Some live longer than others.

 

i was looking for the English word "crack" haha

But yes yes, hopefully this next winter, we can start the breakdown engine part

or if i have the funds im hoping to buy a block on the side to build so we can just drop it in

 

Hell yeah! Having a spare to build is a good idea. May want to consider a 2.4 4G64 since they are cheaper to pick up and displacement is always FTW!

 

if you get all the bolt on parts and get a tune then you'll real your goal. i pretty much just need to get my evo tuned to get it to 400

 

Ill go with whatever engine you tell me, we both know this haha..

ive heard some great numbers with the 2.3L stroker motor?

 

Long rod 2.4 will be my next build should the current one let go too soon.

2.3 is another good option though, just need to price out both and weigh your options.

 

Stock turbo, cams and motor and with 1450cc injectors, SD, I made 435whp and 389wtq, oh and the I had stock intake mani. and TB. 1450's are the best way to go if u want to go bigger turbo and built motor.

 

meh, like you said, youll hear many different opinions on here... but heres my setup

hks 272 cams (people talk crap on em, but i love mine)
950cc injectors (yup...950s..recommend at least 1000s because i could have made more power but ran out of injector))
turbo back exhaust (map downpipe, test pipe, hks cat back exhaust)
fujita licp
nisea intercooler
dc header
walboro 255 fuel pump
turbosmart bov
gruppe-s ecu boost controller (dual mapped)
arp head studs (very important)

@30lbs of boost on a stock block/stock turbo.... 402awhp/402lb tq. on e85
@25lbs of boost 360awhp/350tq on 91 (just for comparison)

 

Bay area mustang dyno's are no joke . My rod too exited the block at 522whp 396tq. I was tuned at fftec but I figure it was my fault anyways. Pay to play I guess.

Just to let you know when I was on 91 octane. I made 406whp 319wtq on fftec's dyno. I went on a road trip back up to washington state. No alters to the tune and did some baseline pulls on a dyno jet. On this dynojet I made 469whp 343tq with nothing altered except I was forced to put in 92 octane because there is no 91 up there.

To the OP, I suggest if you are running on a base map to cycle e85 thru your fuel system, use your old injectors. By the time I cycled through 5 tanks of e85, my old injectors when I took them out collected a lot of gunk.

Thanks to my Hefty tax return, I was able to pick up a stage 2 2.1L and stage 3 head with +1mm valves from maperformance. Can't wait to see what this beast puts down numbers wise with my 6765.

 

Just curious but is that the nisei full race intercooler? If so u are the only other street Evo I know of besides me that has one

And yeah you have a lot of room to make a good 30 more whp if u get some bigger injectors. I am still stock motor and head but with cams and 64mm fp red I am making a lot more power than before and I could make a little more with a second pump or bigger injector, but 1450's seem to be the sweet spot because a dual pump setup is needed when I decide to get a little crazier like some people.

To the OP I recommend looking into going SD, because it's not only easier to tune when you make mod changes but it's also a nice security for you to be able to drive home if u blow a ic pipe, not saying you will but I have done it on both maf and map, but on map I was able to at least drive, at the time, my Mitsubishi prius home like a normal car! Haha. Well that's how gutless it felt anyways.