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Roll Cage on the street?

Old Aug 11, 2013 | 07:13 AM
  #46  
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From: Indianapolis
Looking at that wreck I would have said 100 percent driver was fatally injured, damn he is lucky! I know a guy that streets his evo without a helmet and a weld in cage, but he uses a kirkey racing seat and 5 point harness. I know when I was racing sprint cars guys would get concussions sometimes from flipping hard and banging their heads on the bars even with a helmet if they didn't have a full containment seat. I ran a full containment, a lot of the dirt guys don't like them, but I ran mostly pavement and it helped support your head and body on high banked ovals. Maybe I should put this seat in the Evo. Talk about blind spots lol.


Last edited by gpfury86; Aug 11, 2013 at 07:16 AM.
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Old Aug 11, 2013 | 11:30 AM
  #47  
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From: Yuma
I know everyone and everything has already been said about this but just wanted to say the I personally know someone who smashed there head on a street cage and didn't survive. The force in which your head moves is fatal even at slow speeds.
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 08:29 PM
  #48  
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for a bolt in cage, how hard is it to remove? and what parts exactly are removable? Another point I'd like to get some info on is
Do I have any aircraft maintainers? I have this crazy idea about using landing gear pins instead of bolts. No fuss, no mess, easy to install and removed, and the pins lock in with the ball latch if you get what I mean. I just can't find any info in the NHRA rule book about pins if they are suitable subs for grade 8 bolts. Anybody have any info?
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Old Dec 19, 2013 | 05:44 AM
  #49  
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From: Nissoria
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Roll cages = Helmet and harness (and Hans if you are smart)

There is no way a cage is safe in a street driven car in any shape or form.............
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Old Dec 19, 2013 | 08:11 AM
  #50  
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From: Grafton, MA
Originally Posted by galantman03
for a bolt in cage, how hard is it to remove? and what parts exactly are removable? Another point I'd like to get some info on is
Do I have any aircraft maintainers? I have this crazy idea about using landing gear pins instead of bolts. No fuss, no mess, easy to install and removed, and the pins lock in with the ball latch if you get what I mean. I just can't find any info in the NHRA rule book about pins if they are suitable subs for grade 8 bolts. Anybody have any info?
I think you may be confused as to bolt in 'cage' and a bolt in 'roll bar'

Bolt in roll bars( such as the 4pt autopower I have) are a PAIN to install/remove. Once its in, Its in. there are 3 parts to it, the two arms that go to the back section of your seat, and the main hoop/bar. Getting the main bar in is a big pain, but getting the two back arms to slide in are almost just as bad. then you have to align the holes and bolt everything down. I'm sure you could make it easier if you strip your interior of carpet, rear seat and front seats. I certainly wouldnt suggest the install//remove option..

My roll bar doesnt come anywhere close to my head, seat or anywhere near a life altering location... I have Bride Low Max Vios III's and they sit almost a foot away from the the closest section of the roll bar.

As Joey said below, no cage is safe in a street car, as a real cage will have bars WAY to close for comfort to your head/body.

Originally Posted by joeyorav
Roll cages = Helmet and harness (and Hans if you are smart)

There is no way a cage is safe in a street driven car in any shape or form.............
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Old Dec 19, 2013 | 09:40 PM
  #51  
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From: WEST SIDE, SD
Originally Posted by Pssst
I think you may be confused as to bolt in 'cage' and a bolt in 'roll bar'

Bolt in roll bars( such as the 4pt autopower I have) are a PAIN to install/remove. Once its in, Its in. there are 3 parts to it, the two arms that go to the back section of your seat, and the main hoop/bar. Getting the main bar in is a big pain, but getting the two back arms to slide in are almost just as bad. then you have to align the holes and bolt everything down. I'm sure you could make it easier if you strip your interior of carpet, rear seat and front seats. I certainly wouldnt suggest the install//remove option..

My roll bar doesnt come anywhere close to my head, seat or anywhere near a life altering location... I have Bride Low Max Vios III's and they sit almost a foot away from the the closest section of the roll bar.

As Joey said below, no cage is safe in a street car, as a real cage will have bars WAY to close for comfort to your head/body.
I guess you are misunderstanding me.
I know what the difference is between a roll bar and a bolt in cage. And I do understand that a cage is not a good idea in a street car. Which leads me to thinking out loud and hopefully somebody understands me.



Ok a bolt in cage is awesome, and not as removable as a harness bar I get it.
So why can't we have both, that is a bolt in cage, but easy to remove LIKE a harness bar. Here is my thought process.
Weld in or bolt in (your pick) a receiver for the 6 posts where the roll cage would normally be welded to or bolted to. BUT! To make it easily removable instead of bolting the cage together you pin it together with a clevis (same type of set up for swing outs on roll cages for the doors) where ever a bolt would go. Cuz I'm looking at an autopower cage for an evo 8, and it looks like the ONLY thing that is one solid peice is the roll bar portion of the cage, which makes sense.

To sum it up, basically where bolt goes, is where a pin would go. Ease of installation and removal, (when using a clevis set up)and BTW there are pins that have the same grade rating as bolts do. I just can't find in the rule books that says you can't or can ya know?
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 06:44 AM
  #52  
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From: Grafton, MA
Originally Posted by galantman03
I guess you are misunderstanding me.
I know what the difference is between a roll bar and a bolt in cage. And I do understand that a cage is not a good idea in a street car. Which leads me to thinking out loud and hopefully somebody understands me.



Ok a bolt in cage is awesome, and not as removable as a harness bar I get it.
So why can't we have both, that is a bolt in cage, but easy to remove LIKE a harness bar. Here is my thought process.
Weld in or bolt in (your pick) a receiver for the 6 posts where the roll cage would normally be welded to or bolted to. BUT! To make it easily removable instead of bolting the cage together you pin it together with a clevis (same type of set up for swing outs on roll cages for the doors) where ever a bolt would go. Cuz I'm looking at an autopower cage for an evo 8, and it looks like the ONLY thing that is one solid peice is the roll bar portion of the cage, which makes sense.

To sum it up, basically where bolt goes, is where a pin would go. Ease of installation and removal, (when using a clevis set up)and BTW there are pins that have the same grade rating as bolts do. I just can't find in the rule books that says you can't or can ya know?

I understand what you're trying to get it, its not the bolting together part that is the pain, its the manuvering of the bars to actually get them INTO the evo haha. The pin idea is great. However to make it easier I would assume there would be way more pieces to the cage/bar then a certified cage would require. That being said I think the integrity would be sacrificed for the ease of removal. I am no expert though, so all theory here.
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