what brand motor oil/filter are you using?
"Oil is not designed to increase HP. It is designed to lubricate, if your depending on oil to make a few extra HP just turn up the boost 1psi. I use mobil 1 10w - 30 108,000 miles stock motor no issues."
Haahahaha i was waiting for someone to comment on that. I in no way expected oil to give you extra HP, we all know what the purpose of it is for but thank you for the reminder.
I was simply stating I did not notice any difference in daily driveability, whether smoother or not. Everything in the car feels the same. Not extra HP. Bad terminology.
there are about 300 threads on oil in here, just decide what your budget is (Brad Penn is great but $$) and go from there. your going to get a million different opinions. also depends on engine build, turbo you are running or plan to run etc. if your that unsure, talk to a reputable shop and go from there. gl
Haahahaha i was waiting for someone to comment on that. I in no way expected oil to give you extra HP, we all know what the purpose of it is for but thank you for the reminder.
I was simply stating I did not notice any difference in daily driveability, whether smoother or not. Everything in the car feels the same. Not extra HP. Bad terminology.
there are about 300 threads on oil in here, just decide what your budget is (Brad Penn is great but $$) and go from there. your going to get a million different opinions. also depends on engine build, turbo you are running or plan to run etc. if your that unsure, talk to a reputable shop and go from there. gl
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 92
Likes: 1
From: 11050
Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W-30 + OEM filters.
ALL weights of oil are TOO THICK when you start a cold engine--and that's when 85% of the wear takes place. So, all other things being equal, you want the lowest possible weight oil if you do a higher number of cold starts. There are of course other factors -- if you live in a warm climate, your engine will tolerate higher weights. If you tend to do more long distance driving in a warm climate, same thing.
However for those of us in the Northeast where morning temps are generally less than 80-degrees F, the lower weight really helps reduce wear and tear at startup. I do about 75/25 short hop vs. longer runs (>100 miles).
Given the amount of local driving I do, I am following Mitsu's more aggressive maintenance program, so oil changes every 3000 miles or 6mos, whichever comes first.
ALL weights of oil are TOO THICK when you start a cold engine--and that's when 85% of the wear takes place. So, all other things being equal, you want the lowest possible weight oil if you do a higher number of cold starts. There are of course other factors -- if you live in a warm climate, your engine will tolerate higher weights. If you tend to do more long distance driving in a warm climate, same thing.
However for those of us in the Northeast where morning temps are generally less than 80-degrees F, the lower weight really helps reduce wear and tear at startup. I do about 75/25 short hop vs. longer runs (>100 miles).
Given the amount of local driving I do, I am following Mitsu's more aggressive maintenance program, so oil changes every 3000 miles or 6mos, whichever comes first.
Evolved Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,387
Likes: 3
From: riverside, ca
ran royal purple 10w30 and 15w40 in summer climate in cali for a while with oem filter, i also ran for a while castrol synthetic oil with mobil 1 filter worked ok but oil didnt last long haha, now running valvoline vr1 20w50 oil and mobil 1 oilfilter. Built engine 20k plus goin strong, switched to valvoline vr1 since that was a recommended oil brand for the fp red turbo.
Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W-30 + OEM filters.
ALL weights of oil are TOO THICK when you start a cold engine--and that's when 85% of the wear takes place. So, all other things being equal, you want the lowest possible weight oil if you do a higher number of cold starts. There are of course other factors -- if you live in a warm climate, your engine will tolerate higher weights. If you tend to do more long distance driving in a warm climate, same thing.
However for those of us in the Northeast where morning temps are generally less than 80-degrees F, the lower weight really helps reduce wear and tear at startup. I do about 75/25 short hop vs. longer runs (>100 miles).
Given the amount of local driving I do, I am following Mitsu's more aggressive maintenance program, so oil changes every 3000 miles or 6mos, whichever comes first.
ALL weights of oil are TOO THICK when you start a cold engine--and that's when 85% of the wear takes place. So, all other things being equal, you want the lowest possible weight oil if you do a higher number of cold starts. There are of course other factors -- if you live in a warm climate, your engine will tolerate higher weights. If you tend to do more long distance driving in a warm climate, same thing.
However for those of us in the Northeast where morning temps are generally less than 80-degrees F, the lower weight really helps reduce wear and tear at startup. I do about 75/25 short hop vs. longer runs (>100 miles).
Given the amount of local driving I do, I am following Mitsu's more aggressive maintenance program, so oil changes every 3000 miles or 6mos, whichever comes first.
Like said if most of the wear happens when at cold start up why would you want to make it worse than it even is?
There is no reason to run a 20w-50 on a 4G63 factory engine. If it is built follow your builders recommendation for oil.
Funny to see what the highest millage cars on here run and have been running for years and years without issue and yes a lot of them are making high HP/TQ too
