zstryder

iTrader: (19)

I've been having a weird AC problem that local places haven't been able to diagnose yet - and some of the performance shops aren't equipped to do AC work so I'm hoping someone on the forum here can point me in the right direction.

I park the car in the garage. When I pull out of the garage and into the sun, the AC will work for say, about, 5-10 minutes. It never really works at full blast, but at least it blows out semi-cool air. After that initial 10 minutes, it's just hot air, all the time, no exceptions.

It seems to be dependent on the temperature of something inside the engine bay. For example, even if I park and shut the car off for a few hours, if the car is parked in the hot sun the AC will not work when I start it up again. If I park in the shade or garage, it'll work for the same measly 5-10 min again. Bridgestone did a leak check and replaced the freon/AC coolant, it didn't seem to make a difference at all.

Any ideas?

X91EVO

iTrader: (17)

would think thats either a leaky condensor or bad compressor

revvin9k

iTrader: (23)

No one dyes the system anymore? And then check for leaks?

Makinbacon

I am having the same issue with my 04 lancer apparently Mitsubishi AC systems are crap according to the amount of posts on this same symptom of multiple Mitsubishi models. I have come to the conclusion that the electromagnetic coil on my AC clutch is bad i used a multi-meter to test if the compressor was getting power after it had shut off...it was. Also the car seemed to act as if there was nothing wrong...The radiator and auxiliary fans came on and the car idled up to compensate for compressor operation. Since this is such a popular issue i will not buy used...These compressors can cost $500+ from a dealer and auto zone wanted $400 i found one on eBay for $200 new. I even bypassed the thermal sensor on the side of the compressor to make sure thats what it is. I am going to just replace the clutch when i get the new compressor. The system is still sealed so i don't want to take off the old compressor, as they require a certain amount of lubricant(PAG Oil) and refrigerant(R-134a). You have to be careful NOT to over fill the system with refrigerant this will cause the compressor not to spin but the clutch will still try to engage and this will destroy your clutch. had a past experience on a Buick but i saved it in time, though clutch debris was flying i did return it back to nominal levels and its fine now also the over pressurization sealed all my leaks
Hope this info is usefull to someone i will repost when i get the compressor and install it.
BTW make sure your new compressor comes with a clutch.

zstryder

iTrader: (19)

Dude, that is CRAZY. No wonder the idiots over at Bridgestone/dealership could not figure this out. I wouldn't expect them to.

Is there a separate part number for the clutch, or is it part of the compressor part number? From your description, it sounds like you are planning to remove the clutch from the new compressor and put it onto the old one in order to refrain from having to re-seal the entire system? I'm guessing that means you can replace the clutch without unsealing the system....

What are the chances a dealership tech will know what the hell I'm talking about when I try to explain this to him?

zstryder

iTrader: (19)

Also, mucho mucho thanks! Please report back and let us know if that fixed the issue. The techs have been running like lemmings in circles, telling me everything checks out fine and that "it's just too hot outside for the AC to work properly". Seriously.

Mitsubitshi_Fan

Guys,
I am facing the same problem, and I'd like to point out... the compressor most likely will not ship with a clutch, the clutch is a separate piece.

https://www.mitsubishiparts.com/catalogs.html

try this site for parts information, it supports a 'view by illustration' option, which allows you to identify which part you are ordering.

Another site is http://partswebsite.com

For Lancer 2005 ES model, here is a short link for the AC section diagram.

https://www.partswebsite.com/mitsubi...50&catid=30128

i am trying to figure out a way to talk to my mechanic without insulting him on how to convince him to buy part 19 (repair kit) instead of part 12... since he just showed me the electro magnet won't engage even if he directly plugs in the clutch to the batt.

Raistlin

iTrader: (4)

You can have simular results if the system has been over filled as well.


When they did a check and refilled they might have added too much. Check to see how much psi you have.

4RETECH

iTrader: (86)

Had the same problem two years ago.

Compressor clutch.

zstryder

iTrader: (19)

So do we need part 16? Looks like part 16 includes 17, 18, and 19 as a single kit. That looks like the most likely culprit, can anyone confirm?

4RETECH

iTrader: (86)

You would need 16, it has everything. But it's $206. You could probably get a complete compressor for $100 in the FS section(part out,etc.)

meckert

iTrader: (11)

If you do anything also replace the drier---its 30-40 bucks and catches all the crap in your system-- it will also need to be replaced for any warranty. Just an FYI--.

Makinbacon

I got a NEW (not refurbished) A/C compressor on ebay for $200 Free Shipping! I installed it and used a vacuum pump to check for leaks the system was good. I added the amount of lube needed I used PAG56 since i could not find 46. You need to read these containers as some have a refrigerant additive. They usually contain 1-2oz of oil and 1 oz of refrigerant so make sure you don't overfill. If you do over fill and your pressure is high it will cool but it wont cool very well. The pressurized refrigerant needs to expand in the system and it cant if the pressure is to high. My compressor cam with oil in it I dumped it out not sure it that was a good thing. lack of documentation... The electromagnetic coil on my A/C compressor clutch was bad thus making it run for a few minutes and not running again till it cooled. BTW vacuum pumps are required for the system to function properly. if u dont suck out all the air in the system when you do a massive replacement such as a compressor or condenser your adding ur refrigerant to air and compressing air reducing the performance of the system also if you vacuum it down make sure it holds the vacuum if it does then the system is sealed and you can add oil and refrigerant. This goes with any vehicle not just mitsubishi A/C systems all work alike.

Keevon

Hey guys I'm a newbie here and also going through the same problem with mine that I just bought. Mechanics are obviously very expensive so let me ask this question. Someone above said they bought a complete compressor but only was going to replace the clutch. I was told today to not but these "cheapo clones" because they don't last. So was the plan to buy the cheap compressor only for the competant clutch assembly? Also can someone post a schematic or some pictures and pointers on how to pinpoint wether it is the thermal switch or the clutch? And one last question. Why are thes clutches going bad? I know electromagnet have very strong yet very small magnetic fields. Could it be something so simple as its dirty and Isnt getting good consistent connection? Maybe a play date with a pressure washer might do some good? Any thoughts?

zstryder

iTrader: (19)

My AC clutch rusted out, so that may have been a large part of the problem. I ended up just scouring the for sale forums for AC partouts - usually you can find a low mileage OEM compressor from there for around $100. Life is good with AC again, it's like I've rejoined the 21st century.