My Auto Tensioner Failed last night on my way home from a awesome dinner.
Knocking from the #4 Cyl, and Timing marks are way off. Intake mark is at the 6 o'clock position, and Exhaust mark is at 3 o'clock, didnt check the crank.
Time to rebuild my ride, and make it into a monster.
Stock form with 35R it put down 443hp /368tq (92oct) 27psi, and 509hp/422tq (Q16) 32psi.
I have plenty of parts laying around now, that need to be installed. I am going to stick with a 2.0 build up, and just freshen everything up.
Currently there is no visual damage to the outside of the block/head/oil pan, but tomorrow when i break her open we will see.
For now here are a few shots of the spark plugs, and you can see there is some valve damage on #4.

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I don't think the damage on the washer was caused by your timing. That just makes contact with the seat in the spark plug well, outside of the head.


If something pierced the head from the inside-out, causing that, You probably wouldn't be able to get the plug out.

On a positive note, the ground strap looks to be in good shape. I can't really tell from the pics, but it isn't pushed sown or anything , is it?

 

If you didn't check the crank timing marks then how would you know that the timing marks are off? Even so, how do you know the tensioner failed? Did you pull the timing covers off? Are you sure the cams are just not at TDC right now?

 

Without checking the crank timing marks you have no reference point to go off of. If you're not at TDC the cam gears aren't supposed line up. The TDC mark on the crank pulley is fairly easy to see.

 

Nope none of the plugs where pushed. and ive never seen that before. when i get the head off i will look and see.

My timing belt was completely lose, lose enough to pull off by hand without major force. Im running 272 cams and Adj cam gears.
Im 100% sure they are not even close to correct, since I installed them 3yrs ago.

 

If they aren't close to being right, does that mean they've been on there for 3 years in the wrong spot?

It could also not be the auto-tensioner and could possibly be the timing belt tensioner pulley wasn't properly tightened down after rotating it to the proper torque. Only then will the auto-tensioner take up the rest of the slack. But I have seen both go bad before. If that's the case, hopefully you get lucky and maybe only have some minor damage.

 

Lol no no they were not installed wrong for 3 yrs. That would be really crazy through. Not sure i would make 500hp, and still have a working stock block motor with 100k miles if they were. haha that would make for a crazy tune.
Yeah, the timing belt tensioner is what i was trying to say. Sry about that.

 

Yeah, the hydraulic tensioner. I had one go bad once, back in 1997 on my 1990 GS-T. Mine only jumped one tooth. No valve damage or anything, though.

I'd replace the tensioner, put it back in time, do a compression test and see how it runs. If all is good, let it ride. If it is jacked, pulling it back apart is nothing.

 

Yeah, i was doing a u-turn when all hell broke lose. lol
The cams are about 14 teeth off.
This serves as a good time to go ahead and slap everything into the motor. hopefully the valves are not toast, but i have a bad feeling on this one. Could also hear some clicks, pops, and bangs. not good

 

I had one go bad also. The car still drove fine, but the belt was kind of slapping around, making noise, and too much slack on the tensioner side. After tearing down and inspecting everything, I could push the hydraulic rod in and out with my thumb like a pen. Probably woud have jumped time if I had driven it more.

 

I get off work late tonight, so i might not be able to really look at everything.

 

Who did the timing belt job? Auto-tensioners don't fail like everyone on here make them to. Wrong installation of the timing belt and setting the "TWO" tensionsers up wrong causes them to "fail". Sometimes, the autotensioner has just extended past it's max length, which should not be the issue if both tensionsers were set up right.

 

Its all good, At 113k its time to replace it anyway.

Parts to be installed.
+1mm Valves
BC Ti Valve Sprigs/Retainers
HKS 272s
Gates Belts
MAP Rods
Weisco Pistons
All new bearings
Perrin Crank Pully
Accufab Throttle Body
and Oil Pump

 

Got everything removed in 2.5hrs. Its so nice to have power tools Head removed and everything looks good. NO Bent Valves, No makes on the Pistons either. Checked the head gasket and it had Radiator Fluid on the top side of it, a little on #1,#4 but nothing major.
Checked the Block, and bearing and found..... 2 bad bearing #2 was very thin, and cracked. and #4 was cracked right across the middle.
The Crank may still be good, #2 shows some signs of wear and heat.
Will get pics posted of the Rods, Crank, bearings.

 

Pulled the head off and this is what i got.
No Radiator Fluid in my oil, and No oil in my fluid. Weird.


All Valves were in great condition, all look close to this, none were bent and all seat properly.


Got the crank up to the shop yesterday, and it is still in good condition. Alot of wear to the rod bearings though. All will be replaced with ACL's.