I bought the car a month or so ago and am switching out quite a few parts prior to doing a duel map E85 tune. I want to swap out what I can to avoid install charges and drive the 100 miles and get it tuned.

Which parts can I change and safely make the drive to get it tuned?

Turbosmart MBC ---> HOA Imports 3-port boost control solenoid
Stock Injectors ---> PTE 1200cc Injectors
Cobb SF Intake ---> AEM Intake system
Megan Manifold ---> OEM Manifold
OEM Fuel Pump ---> Walbro 255lph High output fuel pump

 

I would do everything except the 1200cc injectors you can do that once you get to where your going. I'm getting mine tuned tomorrow and I'm driving it about 20 miles and I have cams, valve springs, Walbro and a bunch of other stuff and also 1000cc injectors. Just stay out of boost and take it easy.

Bryan

 

Thanks for the info. Right now I have the manual boost controller set to 24psi. When I switch it out will the boost solenoid are they typically set at a particular level?

 

The 3-port will be set to whatever WGDC is in the map, so if you install the 3-port I would advise you to not go WOT as you don't know how much boost you'll end up with. Injectors you definitely can't do without a retune, the rest should be fine.

 

Are injectors something I could easily install in the shops parking lot?

 

Technically yes, however it took me a good hour to change mine from fighting with the fuel rail to be able to get the injectors in.

 

I did my injectors today and took my time it was about a 1 1/2 hours of work. The hardest thing about it is that it's such a tight space. You need a 12mm and 10mm with small extension, pliers and a little oil for the o rings. Also some rags and a very small screwdriver I think that's it. If you don't mind me asking where are you getting tuned at??

Bryan

 

Would you guys recommend doing a "dry run" prior to driving up and attempting to do it? At least getting the fuel rail off?

 

I say let the shop do the injectors.
I let my shop do it, and it turned out one came with a faulty seal.
Since it was their install, they took care of it: no worries.
PLus, poking about under the hood of a car that you just drove, in summer heat, trying to reach over a hot engine, and groping around hot things that have ignitable fuel isn't 100% good.
Other than that, the walbro 255 is a direct drop-in swap. Good to go.
The 3-port, eh.... you can hook and plug it up, but stay out of the boost-below wastegate pressure .
Intake you're good to go since you're staying out of the boost.
Exhaust manifold? If the gaskets are up for it, you're good to go. Careful with the bolts n nuts, especially for the turbo. They like to seize sometimes. PB Blaster is your friend.

 

Fuel rail is 2 bolts to hold it on and 4 bolts to hold the fuel line/FPR. The hardest part for me was to keep from dropping the lower orings on the injector. I must of dropped it like 6 times. I was about to pull an incredible hulk on it. I used a smaller 1/4 in ratchet with a short and deep socket 10mm for the fuel lines and a 12mm for the fuel rail its self. I also used a short and deep on the fuel rail do the the return fuel line brackets.

 

I put the lower o rings into the manifold and lubes them up just a little and the injector slid right in. I have to agree with deadring I didn't even think of the heat and all of that you need a cold engine to do the job.

 

Good points! I'll let the shop do the install. It's worth $80 to prevent severe facial burns. LOL

I'll tackle the exhaust manifold. It already has a broken stud in which I'll use "Easy Out" on if I can't get a grip and turn it out. Good call on the "PB Blaster". I plan on replacing all the studs since they look pretty rusted.

Forgive my ignorance as I has much to learn about the car and turbos. How do I stay below wastegate pressure? I won't be "getting on it" after I do the mods until getting it tuned.

Thanks for all the info!!

Thanks for the writeup!!

 

Its not hard at all Ive installed injectors on a few cars aftermarket and non-aftermarket. Just do it when the car is dead cold thats all and dont leave the car inthe op position and jeave the gas-cap off to let the system bleed off pressure. Once thats done you should be able to do it with ease. Now as far as the wastegate pressure just dont go into boost how do you not go into boost? resist the urge from flooring the gas pedal.

 

Sorry if I'm thread jacking but what other mods would need an immediate retune?

 

anything that you think or want to make power with.