AWD launch evo IX
AWD launch evo IX
As I stated before I am still new to the EVO world, but I tried racing a RX8 today and was out launched due to a skill less EVO driver. I revved to 5k and probably dumped it too quickly but it dropped to 1k rpm and took off slowly. In the end I still passed him at around 90 mph but it doesn't launch like my STI did. I know it probably just needs a driver mod but I still would like some input from the pros. Now I know stock EVO clutches are weak and my mods are few and none. My down pipe also has a baseball size dent in the elbow as if the first owner hit a rock on the freeway or a curb. Thanks for your time guys. Oh ya and I raced the rx8 in Mexico. No video, sorry 
You can take the pill out the slave cyc. That is there to soften the clutch. Really a simple thing that only costs you some time and a re-bleed. Can also check to see if its adjusted correctly. There is a rod under the dash. There is also a How to in the "how to" section.
1. He didn't say he was street racing.
2. You don't need to remove the pill or adjust your clutch pedal. Those MAY help the clutch feel, but they won't help you logically launch the car.
3. Stock Evo clutches are anything but weak. They do exactly what they were designed to do.
With the car stopped, and in first gear with the clutch pedal depressed, you need to SLOWLY build the revs until you hit the 2 step at 5000RPM. Once you hit that 5000 RPM 2 step, then you should fully depress the gas pedal.
At this point, you're still stopped and the vehicle is bouncing off the 2 step at 5000 RPM. Keeping the gas pedal floored, you need to lift the clutch out slightly (just enough to get the car to inch) this is taking the slack out of the driveline. Once the car starts to move forward, you can begin to release the clutch pedal appropriately.
You either want the tires to spin (which is unlikely at 5k on a stock Evo with good tires) or you want the clutch to slip a bit. THIS IS WHAT IS SAVING YOUR DRIVETRAIN. As the springs in the clutch compress from the added load, you will feel the car surge forward until the clutch pedal is fully released.
This all happens very fast, but it realistically needs to be a calculated maneuver. The gas pedal should remain floored for the entire process until you need to shift (unless you have a no lift to shift setup).
2. You don't need to remove the pill or adjust your clutch pedal. Those MAY help the clutch feel, but they won't help you logically launch the car.
3. Stock Evo clutches are anything but weak. They do exactly what they were designed to do.
With the car stopped, and in first gear with the clutch pedal depressed, you need to SLOWLY build the revs until you hit the 2 step at 5000RPM. Once you hit that 5000 RPM 2 step, then you should fully depress the gas pedal.
At this point, you're still stopped and the vehicle is bouncing off the 2 step at 5000 RPM. Keeping the gas pedal floored, you need to lift the clutch out slightly (just enough to get the car to inch) this is taking the slack out of the driveline. Once the car starts to move forward, you can begin to release the clutch pedal appropriately.
You either want the tires to spin (which is unlikely at 5k on a stock Evo with good tires) or you want the clutch to slip a bit. THIS IS WHAT IS SAVING YOUR DRIVETRAIN. As the springs in the clutch compress from the added load, you will feel the car surge forward until the clutch pedal is fully released.
This all happens very fast, but it realistically needs to be a calculated maneuver. The gas pedal should remain floored for the entire process until you need to shift (unless you have a no lift to shift setup).
1. He didn't say he was street racing.
2. You don't need to remove the pill or adjust your clutch pedal. Those MAY help the clutch feel, but they won't help you logically launch the car.
3. Stock Evo clutches are anything but weak. They do exactly what they were designed to do.
With the car stopped, and in first gear with the clutch pedal depressed, you need to SLOWLY build the revs until you hit the 2 step at 5000RPM. Once you hit that 5000 RPM 2 step, then you should fully depress the gas pedal.
At this point, you're still stopped and the vehicle is bouncing off the 2 step at 5000 RPM. Keeping the gas pedal floored, you need to lift the clutch out slightly (just enough to get the car to inch) this is taking the slack out of the driveline. Once the car starts to move forward, you can begin to release the clutch pedal appropriately.
You either want the tires to spin (which is unlikely at 5k on a stock Evo with good tires) or you want the clutch to slip a bit. THIS IS WHAT IS SAVING YOUR DRIVETRAIN. As the springs in the clutch compress from the added load, you will feel the car surge forward until the clutch pedal is fully released.
This all happens very fast, but it realistically needs to be a calculated maneuver. The gas pedal should remain floored for the entire process until you need to shift (unless you have a no lift to shift setup).
2. You don't need to remove the pill or adjust your clutch pedal. Those MAY help the clutch feel, but they won't help you logically launch the car.
3. Stock Evo clutches are anything but weak. They do exactly what they were designed to do.
With the car stopped, and in first gear with the clutch pedal depressed, you need to SLOWLY build the revs until you hit the 2 step at 5000RPM. Once you hit that 5000 RPM 2 step, then you should fully depress the gas pedal.
At this point, you're still stopped and the vehicle is bouncing off the 2 step at 5000 RPM. Keeping the gas pedal floored, you need to lift the clutch out slightly (just enough to get the car to inch) this is taking the slack out of the driveline. Once the car starts to move forward, you can begin to release the clutch pedal appropriately.
You either want the tires to spin (which is unlikely at 5k on a stock Evo with good tires) or you want the clutch to slip a bit. THIS IS WHAT IS SAVING YOUR DRIVETRAIN. As the springs in the clutch compress from the added load, you will feel the car surge forward until the clutch pedal is fully released.
This all happens very fast, but it realistically needs to be a calculated maneuver. The gas pedal should remain floored for the entire process until you need to shift (unless you have a no lift to shift setup).
1. He didn't say he was street racing.
2. You don't need to remove the pill or adjust your clutch pedal. Those MAY help the clutch feel, but they won't help you logically launch the car.
3. Stock Evo clutches are anything but weak. They do exactly what they were designed to do.
With the car stopped, and in first gear with the clutch pedal depressed, you need to SLOWLY build the revs until you hit the 2 step at 5000RPM. Once you hit that 5000 RPM 2 step, then you should fully depress the gas pedal.
At this point, you're still stopped and the vehicle is bouncing off the 2 step at 5000 RPM. Keeping the gas pedal floored, you need to lift the clutch out slightly (just enough to get the car to inch) this is taking the slack out of the driveline. Once the car starts to move forward, you can begin to release the clutch pedal appropriately.
You either want the tires to spin (which is unlikely at 5k on a stock Evo with good tires) or you want the clutch to slip a bit. THIS IS WHAT IS SAVING YOUR DRIVETRAIN. As the springs in the clutch compress from the added load, you will feel the car surge forward until the clutch pedal is fully released.
This all happens very fast, but it realistically needs to be a calculated maneuver. The gas pedal should remain floored for the entire process until you need to shift (unless you have a no lift to shift setup).
2. You don't need to remove the pill or adjust your clutch pedal. Those MAY help the clutch feel, but they won't help you logically launch the car.
3. Stock Evo clutches are anything but weak. They do exactly what they were designed to do.
With the car stopped, and in first gear with the clutch pedal depressed, you need to SLOWLY build the revs until you hit the 2 step at 5000RPM. Once you hit that 5000 RPM 2 step, then you should fully depress the gas pedal.
At this point, you're still stopped and the vehicle is bouncing off the 2 step at 5000 RPM. Keeping the gas pedal floored, you need to lift the clutch out slightly (just enough to get the car to inch) this is taking the slack out of the driveline. Once the car starts to move forward, you can begin to release the clutch pedal appropriately.
You either want the tires to spin (which is unlikely at 5k on a stock Evo with good tires) or you want the clutch to slip a bit. THIS IS WHAT IS SAVING YOUR DRIVETRAIN. As the springs in the clutch compress from the added load, you will feel the car surge forward until the clutch pedal is fully released.
This all happens very fast, but it realistically needs to be a calculated maneuver. The gas pedal should remain floored for the entire process until you need to shift (unless you have a no lift to shift setup).
1. He didn't say he was street racing.
2. You don't need to remove the pill or adjust your clutch pedal. Those MAY help the clutch feel, but they won't help you logically launch the car.
3. Stock Evo clutches are anything but weak. They do exactly what they were designed to do.
With the car stopped, and in first gear with the clutch pedal depressed, you need to SLOWLY build the revs until you hit the 2 step at 5000RPM. Once you hit that 5000 RPM 2 step, then you should fully depress the gas pedal.
At this point, you're still stopped and the vehicle is bouncing off the 2 step at 5000 RPM. Keeping the gas pedal floored, you need to lift the clutch out slightly (just enough to get the car to inch) this is taking the slack out of the driveline. Once the car starts to move forward, you can begin to release the clutch pedal appropriately.
You either want the tires to spin (which is unlikely at 5k on a stock Evo with good tires) or you want the clutch to slip a bit. THIS IS WHAT IS SAVING YOUR DRIVETRAIN. As the springs in the clutch compress from the added load, you will feel the car surge forward until the clutch pedal is fully released.
This all happens very fast, but it realistically needs to be a calculated maneuver. The gas pedal should remain floored for the entire process until you need to shift (unless you have a no lift to shift setup).
2. You don't need to remove the pill or adjust your clutch pedal. Those MAY help the clutch feel, but they won't help you logically launch the car.
3. Stock Evo clutches are anything but weak. They do exactly what they were designed to do.
With the car stopped, and in first gear with the clutch pedal depressed, you need to SLOWLY build the revs until you hit the 2 step at 5000RPM. Once you hit that 5000 RPM 2 step, then you should fully depress the gas pedal.
At this point, you're still stopped and the vehicle is bouncing off the 2 step at 5000 RPM. Keeping the gas pedal floored, you need to lift the clutch out slightly (just enough to get the car to inch) this is taking the slack out of the driveline. Once the car starts to move forward, you can begin to release the clutch pedal appropriately.
You either want the tires to spin (which is unlikely at 5k on a stock Evo with good tires) or you want the clutch to slip a bit. THIS IS WHAT IS SAVING YOUR DRIVETRAIN. As the springs in the clutch compress from the added load, you will feel the car surge forward until the clutch pedal is fully released.
This all happens very fast, but it realistically needs to be a calculated maneuver. The gas pedal should remain floored for the entire process until you need to shift (unless you have a no lift to shift setup).
Seriously, if you want to launch your Evo, upgrade the clutch! Otherwise, don't launch it too hard and punch the gas in 2nd and 3rd. When I launch, I baby my Evo cuz clutches aren't cheap. I shoot for the 4k's just to be safe and the Evo is tuned to crush any V8 afterwards. I do agree with the inching philosophy though--save the clutch!
If you do upgrade the clutch, baby it for the first 500 miles!!! No launching for at least 500 miles. I can not stress that enough!!!!!
Trending Topics
Say goodbye to your stock clutch. Hahahahahaha!!!
Seriously, if you want to launch your Evo, upgrade the clutch! Otherwise, don't launch it too hard and punch the gas in 2nd and 3rd. When I launch, I baby my Evo cuz clutches aren't cheap. I shoot for the 4k's just to be safe and the Evo is tuned to crush any V8 afterwards. I do agree with the inching philosophy though--save the clutch!
If you do upgrade the clutch, baby it for the first 500 miles!!! No launching for at least 500 miles. I can not stress that enough!!!!!
Seriously, if you want to launch your Evo, upgrade the clutch! Otherwise, don't launch it too hard and punch the gas in 2nd and 3rd. When I launch, I baby my Evo cuz clutches aren't cheap. I shoot for the 4k's just to be safe and the Evo is tuned to crush any V8 afterwards. I do agree with the inching philosophy though--save the clutch!
If you do upgrade the clutch, baby it for the first 500 miles!!! No launching for at least 500 miles. I can not stress that enough!!!!!
2. Obviously launching the car is going to wear the clutch. So does shifting gears. Its a wear item, and an Evo.
3. I think launching your car at 4k is probably worse for the car than at 5k. Your putting the vehicle into a high load situation. The clutch is less likely to slip at 4k and the tires are less likely to spin at 4k, so you're getting 100% of everything. Thats how things blow up. Same reason you shouldn't be flooring it in 6th gear at 3k rpms. If you want to keep your clutch and drivetrain healthy, then simply don't launch it. But launching at 4k isn't going to save anything.
4. If 4k were a better option, I think we'd see more people doing it. My 2 step is set to 5825 rpm. Thats so that the tires will spin.
Bottom line, clutches and tires are expensive and designed to be used. The drivetrain is not.
Thanks for the input guys, 2 step at 5k is pretty helpful. Nice it comes standard in the EVO. Looks like I get to learn how to do an all wheel launch at the drag strip all over again. I plan to use a ACT 6 puck sprung after destroying this stock clutch. I'm not worried about replacing it, I'm actually pretty intrigued about pulling the engine to learn more about it. I've built 7 STI EJ257's and they were a pain but the 4g63 looks pretty simple. I'm putting in ARP head studs, new head gasket, thinking about the AMS balance shaft eliminator kit and the rest will be external mods. Any suggestions for head gaskets let me know. Thanks again 
Evolving Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 164
Likes: 1
From: Clovis NM/CANNON AFB
1. I disagree with upgrading the stock clutch simply for launching. As I've stated in the clutch thread a few threads down. A stronger clutch simply means more of everything is applied to the drivetrain. If you're trying to save yourself tenths of a second in a 1/4 mile situation, and don't mind rebuilding your transmission then yes, go ahead and upgrade. But a "stronger" clutch isn't going to help you launch the car any better.
2. Obviously launching the car is going to wear the clutch. So does shifting gears. Its a wear item, and an Evo.
3. I think launching your car at 4k is probably worse for the car than at 5k. Your putting the vehicle into a high load situation. The clutch is less likely to slip at 4k and the tires are less likely to spin at 4k, so you're getting 100% of everything. Thats how things blow up. Same reason you shouldn't be flooring it in 6th gear at 3k rpms. If you want to keep your clutch and drivetrain healthy, then simply don't launch it. But launching at 4k isn't going to save anything.
4. If 4k were a better option, I think we'd see more people doing it. My 2 step is set to 5825 rpm. Thats so that the tires will spin.
Bottom line, clutches and tires are expensive and designed to be used. The drivetrain is not.
2. Obviously launching the car is going to wear the clutch. So does shifting gears. Its a wear item, and an Evo.
3. I think launching your car at 4k is probably worse for the car than at 5k. Your putting the vehicle into a high load situation. The clutch is less likely to slip at 4k and the tires are less likely to spin at 4k, so you're getting 100% of everything. Thats how things blow up. Same reason you shouldn't be flooring it in 6th gear at 3k rpms. If you want to keep your clutch and drivetrain healthy, then simply don't launch it. But launching at 4k isn't going to save anything.
4. If 4k were a better option, I think we'd see more people doing it. My 2 step is set to 5825 rpm. Thats so that the tires will spin.
Bottom line, clutches and tires are expensive and designed to be used. The drivetrain is not.
This was very informative. You know your stuff!
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
so here a question along the same lines hopefully know ones minds i post it here, I have a 06 EVO IX Special Edition. Do they come with launch control on the ECU in stock form. what RPM does it launch at if it does?
I ask because i bought this EVO back in May it was already tuned to E85 and putting down 400awhp, and there was no launch control on it when i drove it away, I then had it re-tuned to pump gas due to lack of E85 stations in my area.
I recently had a launch tune set on my car. it is set a 5275rpm 8-9PSI. It launch awesome!!
I ask because i bought this EVO back in May it was already tuned to E85 and putting down 400awhp, and there was no launch control on it when i drove it away, I then had it re-tuned to pump gas due to lack of E85 stations in my area.
I recently had a launch tune set on my car. it is set a 5275rpm 8-9PSI. It launch awesome!!
