Ok so here is all the info.. I am new to the evo world, and let me say I love it! .. I just bought a stock 2006 evo mr. One owner never modded. Well after research I found out it wast hitting the right boost. My buddy gave me. A hallman boost controller to. See if we could fix it, hopeing it was. The stock boost controller messing up. Well we turned it up and @ 1.3 bars on. Stock gauge I hit fuel cut..so to me the gauge is obviously way off and I turned the boost back down untill I get. A after market gauge! But in the mean time a. Check engine light came on. Autozone said it wwas faulty egr valve. Can it have something to do with when I turned the boost up? And what can I. Do to fix this or even reset it? This car is in mint condition andits like my baby..so I want **** done rightt to it, and it not to be rigged or messed up! . Please help and btw evo ftw!!! Funnest car ever!!!!

 

Have you checked for a boost leak? I would start with that.

 

You are going to have to reach on the back of the intake manifold and feel for one or two loose vacuum hoses. When one of them comes off it will trigger a CEL

 

I tried checking for a boost leak..I didn't have time to do it the proper way that I researched. I think it still worked though. if u follow the pipeing from the intake. Mainifold and when it bends and goes to the first hard pipe I hooked it up there and shot the air towards the intercooler...it seemed like it worked but I know itwasnt the way I seen it done on here!..is it still correct? I'm just sccarred and want to get it fixed quick so I don't harm anything!

 

This!!! I am not far from Delaware if you want me to look at it. I can scan the car and clear the codes as well.

 

If the code was for "insufficient egr flow" (401 I think), it more than likly is, one or both, of the vac hoses on the back-bottom-diver side of the intake manifold. (what evo8426 said) If it is, or even if it isn't you should ziptie them in place. They WILL eventually pop off.

 

When I get home from work ill def look! Hopefully that's all it is! That would be a niceeasy fix.aslo cananyone tell me if the way I tested for the boost leak is good enough? Or do I have to do it to the turbo?

 

Proper boost leak should be done via the turbo. You could have very small leaks that a visual inspection of all the hoses and clamps will not show you. So yes it's vital to actually get air running through the system.

 

+1 Doing the leak test through the Turbo is the BEST and most accurate way to check for a boost leak as this way you will push air thru the system the same way the turbo does ergo replicating the flow of air and more easily identifying where the problem area is. Also the EVO is extremely intelligent so if triggering this CEL has you spooked just relax because little hoses pop off and vaccum lines dry rot and rupture these things just happen with turbo cars. If anything your baby put herself into safe mode as most stock evo's do when a CEL is triggered... depending on the code. U should be fine.

 

1. Get rid of that boost controller until you get a tune. Your car probably isn't low on boost for any other reason than you having a boost leak or a gauge that reads slightly off.

2. Do a proper boost leak test. I'm not sure why you would've thought adding a boost controller to increase boost would've been a good idea instead of just doing a boost leak test, but for future reference... thats a bad idea.

3. The car likely hit fuel cut because you turned the boost up.

4. The SES light is probably because of those hoses blowing off under boost as mentioned.

5. Why are you using so many periods man! lol!

Good luck.

 

^ At least he's not using run-on sentences...lol jk. Good point though.

 

If I do fix the problem will the cel go away? If not is there anyway to get it off without a scanner?

 

The onlyy reason I did the boost conroller is because my buddy had one laying around.and the research I did said if ur only hitting 12psi which my factory gauge ssaid was if ur stock boost controller isn't working right, intern your running off the wategaate which is 12psi so I. Figured id give it a shot. When I hitfuel cut then I realized the gauge has to be off and its time to look for a good aftermarket one. Sorry for any confusion

 

Pretty sure you need EvoScan to clear it. Like i said I am 20-25 mins from DE if you want me to help you out.

 

No its cool man... everyone has to learn.

1. You can clear the codes by resetting the ECU. You can do this by disconnecting the negative battery cable for a few minutes. (10 or so). If you start the car and the code is INSTANTLY on, then you didn't clear it (you didn't disconnect the negative battery cable for long enough). If it comes back on after being off... then the problem wasn't fixed (but this may take a little while to show).

2. If your car isn't fully boosting according to your gauge, this is only ONE indication. Gauges can fail, be inaccurate, installed incorrectly, etc. So just because your gauge only says 12psi, doesn't mean you're at 12 psi.

3. If you notice any turbo car not boosting to its full potential, the FIRST thing you should almost ALWAYS do is run a full and complete boost leak test. The LAST thing you should be doing is turning up the boost. You're lucky you didn't blow something up.

4. The factory gauges aren't really any more or less accurate than any other gauge. I find it very misleading to say that gauge A is more/less accurate than gauge B simply because there are too many variables. Can they break? Yes. Do they? Yes. But there are other things to check.


So... remove the boost controller. You've obviously turned the boost up too much if you're hitting fuel cut. Then do a FULL and COMPLETE, PROPER boost leak test using soapy water and an air compressor. If all of the system sounds solid, then we can move on from there diagnosing this.

Good luck m8!