Quarter Mile time
Just wanted to offer my $.02
Every car is different, every track is different, every dyno is different...
Some stock Evo IXs dyno at 225 on a Mustang dyno, some dyno 240.
Those same cars will make 5-10% higher numbers on a Dynojet Dyno.
Some people run at tracks that are at sea level, some are at 2000ft above.
Some people run in July at 101* outside, some run in November at 50*.
There are so many variables to consider that 100 replies will be 100 different pieces of info.
I'll give you the details on my car when i had it tuned/dyno'd...
2006 Evo MR
52,000 miles
Cobb 3" cat-less downpipe
Invidia 3" testpipe
Tenabe Medallion 3" cat-back exhaust
Forge RS Diverter Valve
3-port boost solenoid
Tuned by CBRD in York, PA (Mustang Dyno)
Before tune: 228whp/226wtq
After tune: 301whp/289wtq
Ran the car at Capital Raceway in Crofton, MD when it was BONE stock at 49,000 miles. Track is close to sea level, and it was 68* outside, low humidity.
Best run: 13.69 @ 100mph with a 1.87 60'
After the tune & mods, plus I installed the Perrin Intake kit, and the Synapse Synchronic DV...same track, but 62* outside.
Best run: 12.77 @109mph with a 1.74 60'
Coming soon: AMS intercooler, AMS lower intercooler piping, Megan O2 housing, and a re-tune by CBRD. I'm shooting for 330whp, 320wtq, and a 12.40 run at the track.
Hope this helps you sir, we were all noobs at one point. And YES, you should do research here on the forums to get your learn on, but realize that the people who bash you with a 20min, 5 paragraph essay on why they hate people who dont research and "ask dumb questions" could have quickly answered your question in 2 minutes and 3 scentances....
Every car is different, every track is different, every dyno is different...
Some stock Evo IXs dyno at 225 on a Mustang dyno, some dyno 240.
Those same cars will make 5-10% higher numbers on a Dynojet Dyno.
Some people run at tracks that are at sea level, some are at 2000ft above.
Some people run in July at 101* outside, some run in November at 50*.
There are so many variables to consider that 100 replies will be 100 different pieces of info.
I'll give you the details on my car when i had it tuned/dyno'd...
2006 Evo MR
52,000 miles
Cobb 3" cat-less downpipe
Invidia 3" testpipe
Tenabe Medallion 3" cat-back exhaust
Forge RS Diverter Valve
3-port boost solenoid
Tuned by CBRD in York, PA (Mustang Dyno)
Before tune: 228whp/226wtq
After tune: 301whp/289wtq
Ran the car at Capital Raceway in Crofton, MD when it was BONE stock at 49,000 miles. Track is close to sea level, and it was 68* outside, low humidity.
Best run: 13.69 @ 100mph with a 1.87 60'
After the tune & mods, plus I installed the Perrin Intake kit, and the Synapse Synchronic DV...same track, but 62* outside.
Best run: 12.77 @109mph with a 1.74 60'
Coming soon: AMS intercooler, AMS lower intercooler piping, Megan O2 housing, and a re-tune by CBRD. I'm shooting for 330whp, 320wtq, and a 12.40 run at the track.
Hope this helps you sir, we were all noobs at one point. And YES, you should do research here on the forums to get your learn on, but realize that the people who bash you with a 20min, 5 paragraph essay on why they hate people who dont research and "ask dumb questions" could have quickly answered your question in 2 minutes and 3 scentances....
Last edited by dleight; Oct 19, 2011 at 02:28 PM.
Wow.... kid, your about to get your *** railed by like 20 post telling you to SEARCH THE FORUMS!
.... And soon after this is going to get closed out. You know why? Because there's about 10 other post just in the FIRST 2 PAGES asking almost the exact same thing. Do us a favor and look around before posting.
And by the way, your car is deff not a 12.9 car. Maybe high 13's if you know how to drive. There's people in here that drive there 9-10 second cars on the street every day. I drive an 11 second car. It's nothing different than a normal car, if your driving it around normal on the streets.
.... And soon after this is going to get closed out. You know why? Because there's about 10 other post just in the FIRST 2 PAGES asking almost the exact same thing. Do us a favor and look around before posting.
And by the way, your car is deff not a 12.9 car. Maybe high 13's if you know how to drive. There's people in here that drive there 9-10 second cars on the street every day. I drive an 11 second car. It's nothing different than a normal car, if your driving it around normal on the streets.
12.82 was my best time when my car was stock. the car is capable. the driver may not be.
oh, and chill out with all the noob on noob hatred.
Evolving Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 287
Likes: 0
From: Gurnee, IL but currently in 29 Palms, CA
Someone got a little butt hurt over what I wrote.
Yes it might depend on a driver and track but I have yet to see a a bone stock EVO run a high 12 second pass
I say it's 60% driver, 40% mods. I would get the basic bolt ons..intake, down pipe,HFC/test pipe,
LICP, catback exhaust, and MBC/boost gauge. Get a couple gallons of 100 octane, up the boost to
23psi..and get some runs in. You should get into the 12's, with some practice.
N
LICP, catback exhaust, and MBC/boost gauge. Get a couple gallons of 100 octane, up the boost to
23psi..and get some runs in. You should get into the 12's, with some practice.
N
personally, if I were that guy, i'd practice until I could get the car either into the 12's or as close as possible before I'd start modding. If you can't drive the car to it's full potential now, it's only going to get worse as you start modding. what good is having a 12 second car if you can't make it run 12 seconds? that goes for whatever time you're looking at. the first mod you should always do is the driver mod.
mad bro? I'm not, I just figured someone should point out the fact that you don't know what you're talking about.
Evolving Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 287
Likes: 0
From: Gurnee, IL but currently in 29 Palms, CA
The way this kid talked in the first 2 sentences he wrote, you damn well know he’s not going to drive a stock "12 second evo" and that's why I said what I said.
And by the way. I think I do know what I'm talking about. Care to drop it? Pretty sure where grown adults here.
And what makes you state that? Because I said something that was just my opinion? I'm sorry if I myself have not seen a 12 second bone stock EVO. I guess there's none of those to be found out here in Illinois!
The way this kid talked in the first 2 sentences he wrote, you damn well know he’s not going to drive a stock "12 second evo" and that's why I said what I said.
And by the way. I think I do know what I'm talking about. Care to drop it? Pretty sure where grown adults here.
The way this kid talked in the first 2 sentences he wrote, you damn well know he’s not going to drive a stock "12 second evo" and that's why I said what I said.
And by the way. I think I do know what I'm talking about. Care to drop it? Pretty sure where grown adults here.
which is why he should focus on becoming a better driver before modding. simple.
Power to weight ratio.
Another thing to take into consideration is power to weight ratio. If you do your research when you start modding your car, weight of the aftermarket parts VS the OEM parts you replace them with makes a difference. Removing excess weight from the car, weight of the performance parts added, and also reduction of unsprung weight will all make a big difference in performance of your car in all aspects.
If you look at HP/quarter mile time/weight charts, you will see why mid 3xxhp cars run 11s and 4xxhp cars run 12s. It's not the easiest part of the equation, but there is a lot of posts in here to help.
Here is a chart to give you an idea.

N
If you look at HP/quarter mile time/weight charts, you will see why mid 3xxhp cars run 11s and 4xxhp cars run 12s. It's not the easiest part of the equation, but there is a lot of posts in here to help.
Here is a chart to give you an idea.
N
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