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How important is the undertray?

Old Apr 19, 2012 | 05:01 PM
  #76  
pangyau's Avatar
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chrisw

Thanks for the link, few things I need to know:-

1- Do we need to remove the front lips in order to install the Beatrush Panel?
Since its just a normal stock Evo8MR lips.

2- We need to remove the rear panel for Engine oil change (refer to attached picture).
How about for Gearbox/Differential fluids change, do we need to remove the bumper?

Your advice very much appreciated.

Ang Wen Yan,
Thanks for the advice...
Attached Thumbnails How important is the undertray?-beatrush-underpanel_07-01.jpeg  

Last edited by pangyau; Apr 19, 2012 at 05:04 PM.
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 05:14 PM
  #77  
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From: canada
Originally Posted by pangyau
chrisw

Thanks for the link, few things I need to know:-

1- Do we need to remove the front lips in order to install the Beatrush Panel?
Since its just a normal stock Evo8MR lips.

2- We need to remove the rear panel for Engine oil change (refer to attached picture).
How about for Gearbox/Differential fluids change, do we need to remove the bumper?

Your advice very much appreciated.

Ang Wen Yan,
Thanks for the advice...

1. For initial install and future install and removal... the lip stays where it is. No need to remove it.

2.With the Beatrush panel. There is a cutout for oil changes.


lol the round square in the middle with 4 bolts is for oil changes

3. For diff/trans fluid changes. Id just drop the panel..not the bumper

Once its installed its alot less work to remove and install
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 06:23 PM
  #78  
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I keep mine on for the subconscious downforce / fuel economy benefits and for the definitely noticeable reduction in road/wind noise. Plus it keeps a lot of crap out of the engine bay. Late one night I was cruising down a dark highway and hit a piece of tire. It took out my undertray but protected my axle CV boot. That alone was enough to convince me to buy another undertray.

Although these damn things don't last very long. My 2nd one is also looking like crap. I should've just bought the beatrush...


Originally Posted by foxbear2277

lol the round square in the middle with 4 bolts is for oil changes
Not at all. The oil drain bolt and filter is by the right control arm. That cover is for the tow hook. You do need to take off the beatrush tray to do an oil change.
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 06:42 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by deeman101
Not at all. The oil drain bolt and filter is by the right control arm. That cover is for the tow hook. You do need to take off the beatrush tray to do an oil change.
Whoops my bad. Installed it last october, car went into storage in november and is being stripped for my build... havent actually done an oil change with the beatrush panel. Thought i read it was for oil changes. Again my bad... This being the case, then the undertray will probably need to be removed for oil changes. Which is also no big deal. Thanks for the correction buddy
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 06:43 PM
  #80  
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leave it off/get a custom one thats easier to remove
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 06:46 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by deeman101
Not at all. The oil drain bolt and filter is by the right control arm. That cover is for the tow hook. You do need to take off the beatrush tray to do an oil change.
Just found where I read it..
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...y-install.html

Though you are still right...
Oil change = 4 fasteners
Tow hook = 4 fasteners
Whole tray drop = ~10 fasteners

For oil changes it looks like its just the rear section which is only 4 fasteners
But better if those who have one and have actually done a oil change with it... not like some people..cough...cough... me lol
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 11:40 AM
  #82  
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Its a bit more than 10 for the whole assembly, closer to 20, but spend some extra cash and get the dzus quick release fasteners for at least the rear portion and the tow hook hole to make removal so much easier. See my blog (upgrading the E) and pictures in my profile for more info.

pics

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/me...nderpanel.html


I ordered two different sizes of Dzus, based on past forum member recommendations. In my pictures the black ones are a little shorter than the silver ones. The longer ones are required in some locations because of the thickness of the beatrush and oem materials.

get DZUS here:

http://kurveygirl.com/shop/index.php...sort=2a&page=1

To get have my setup, which incorporates using some DZUs on the front plate as well as having the whole rear portion and the tow hook cover completely DZUS:

order a ten peice 12mm black d-ring dzus.
and at least a 4 peice 14mm silver d-ring dzus. (use diff color to easily be able to tell the difference between the two.

Its nice to have some DZUS on the front portion because it makes mounting the front plate easier, because lying on your back holding the plate trying to get that first screw in to hold it can be a pain, its much easier just turning a DZUS a 1/4 turn and its held in place, then you can proceed with the screws or dzus etc.

Order another 10 peice of 14mm to make the whole front peice quick release. But this is not absolutely required as you will only be taking the rear peice off for most of your work. You will have to relocate the wheel flaps toward the tire to use DZus on the front peice mounting locations. My pictures show that I have used 4 dzus for the front plate to mount to the car, the rest is beatrush supplied hardware (along the front lip).

feel free to message me for more info and exact details. This set up rocks so much!


Originally Posted by foxbear2277
Just found where I read it..
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...y-install.html

Though you are still right...
Oil change = 4 fasteners
Tow hook = 4 fasteners
Whole tray drop = ~10 fasteners

For oil changes it looks like its just the rear section which is only 4 fasteners
But better if those who have one and have actually done a oil change with it... not like some people..cough...cough... me lol

Last edited by mr06; Apr 20, 2012 at 11:49 AM.
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 11:52 AM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by foxbear2277
1. For initial install and future install and removal... the lip stays where it is. No need to remove it.

2.With the Beatrush panel. There is a cutout for oil changes.


lol the round square in the middle with 4 bolts is for oil changes

3. For diff/trans fluid changes. Id just drop the panel..not the bumper

Once its installed its alot less work to remove and install
Actualy, that access panel is to access the front jacking point and tie down on the stock engine cross member.

To change the oil you only need to remove the rear portion of the under tray. Also, the fitment of the under tray will be affected by the down pipe you use. Typically a 3" DP will need to have a cutout in the under tray to fit. I have the tanabe dp, and I had to cut a little out of the under tray for clearance. But other than that, the fitment is really good.

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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 11:57 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by mr06
Its a bit more than 10 for the whole assembly, closer to 20, but spend some extra cash and get the dzus quick release fasteners for at least the rear portion and the tow hook hole to make removal so much easier. See my blog (upgrading the E) and pictures in my profile for more info.

pics

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/me...nderpanel.html


I ordered two different sizes of Dzus, based on past forum member recommendations. In my pictures the black ones are a little shorter than the silver ones. The longer ones are required in some locations because of the thickness of the beatrush and oem materials.

get DZUS here:

http://kurveygirl.com/shop/index.php...sort=2a&page=1

To get have my setup, which incorporates using some DZUs on the front plate as well as having the whole rear portion and the tow hook cover completely DZUS:

order a ten peice 12mm black d-ring dzus.
and at least a 4 peice 14mm silver d-ring dzus. (use diff color to easily be able to tell the difference between the two.

Its nice to have some DZUS on the front portion because it makes mounting the front plate easier, because lying on your back holding the plate trying to get that first screw in to hold it can be a pain, its much easier just turning a DZUS a 1/4 turn and its held in place, then you can proceed with the screws or dzus etc.

Order another 10 peice of 14mm to make the whole front peice quick release. But this is not absolutely required as you will only be taking the rear peice off for most of your work. You will have to relocate the wheel flaps toward the tire to use DZus on the front peice mounting locations. My pictures show that I have used 4 dzus for the front plate to mount to the car, the rest is beatrush supplied hardware (along the front lip).

feel free to message me for more info and exact details. This set up rocks so much!

I almost went that route, but the front bumper cover is literally 6 bolts, and those dzus fasteners could be used to replace the plastic trim screws that we all hate. With the solution that I came up with for my front lip install, it's easier to remove the 4 bolts that hold the under tray, and the 6 that hold the front bumper cover, and I can take off the whole front of the car with less difficulty than removing the under tray

I didn't plan it that way, but it worked out pretty good in the end.

Oh yeah.. almost forgot. The stock beatrush hardware uses metric 10x8mm threaded bolts for the allen screws included with the kit.

Last edited by chrisw; Apr 20, 2012 at 11:59 AM.
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 01:01 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by chrisw
Also, the fitment of the under tray will be affected by the down pipe you use. Typically a 3" DP will need to have a cutout in the under tray to fit. I have the tanabe dp, and I had to cut a little out of the under tray for clearance. But other than that, the fitment is really good.

I also have an issue with my greddy 3" DP... Havent fixed it yet, its rubbing good, especially when it heats up. It sure creats a nice rattle/vibration when cold. On my list of things to do, thanks for the reminder
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 10:54 PM
  #86  
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should get aluminum one,... lol
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Old Jun 16, 2012 | 08:08 AM
  #87  
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http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Modif...5/article.html

http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Modif...6/article.html
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Old Jan 4, 2013 | 02:28 PM
  #88  
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Some cars have brake air ducts which I imagine do work to divert air onto part of the brake assembly, can the wheel design (i.e. the spoke design) affect the airflow under a car too?
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Old Jan 5, 2013 | 12:44 AM
  #89  
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+1 took it off. Don't need it, doesn't make you go any faster or help aerodynamically, so what's the use.....bahahaha.

I also hate those damn Oem Clips...cut them b****** off with a smile.
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Old Jan 5, 2013 | 08:09 AM
  #90  
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Should be a disclaimer that u need a front tow hook after getting a beatrush. Good luck screwing around with 4 screws if your stuck in snow or something happens.
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