Reliability build
Reliability build
Hey guys so I'm pretty new to evo 8s and 9s but I had a Ralliart (4b11) and learned everything I needed to know about that engine. Now I have an evo 8 with 400whp on e85 with 170k on the clock. My goal with this car has been to get to 600whp and now I have about 8k to spend on it but rather than throwing a big turbo and blowing my engine up I'd rather make it as reliable as possible even if I have to wait longer to get to the hp I want. All maintenance is done and I have a shop that will remove my engine and transmission for 1000$ plus I have an extra TC lying around where do you guys think I should start on my daily driver build with an 8k ceiling.
Get a MAPerformace shortblock or a jacks transmission shortblock that's only 2500 shipped. Then a Competion twin plate clutch. Also look into jacks transmission for transmission upgrade and tcase upgrade. If you just want numbers and not actually racing the car then maybe just refreshing the trans and tcase as opposed to getting an staged upgrade.
Then go map ef4 turbo. Port the intake and exhaust mani. Get gsc s2's and the valve springs/retainers to support it and you'll be good.
Then go map ef4 turbo. Port the intake and exhaust mani. Get gsc s2's and the valve springs/retainers to support it and you'll be good.
Last edited by fastyouth1313; Jan 4, 2013 at 08:18 PM.
+1
When you say reliable, do you mean reliable for the duration of a built motor, maybe 50,000 miles? I too want reliable motor, but if I have to rebuild it every 50,000 miles or sooner than that would suck, unless it was my dedicated track car.
When you say reliable, do you mean reliable for the duration of a built motor, maybe 50,000 miles? I too want reliable motor, but if I have to rebuild it every 50,000 miles or sooner than that would suck, unless it was my dedicated track car.
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The guy doing the work is charging me 1000 to take it apart and send it out to get machined and the put it back together but idk wat size pistons I should get or rods and if I should get a crank since its high Milage or will I be ok plus gaskets and other engine hardware I might need
The guy doing the work is charging me 1000 to take it apart and send it out to get machined and the put it back together but idk wat size pistons I should get or rods and if I should get a crank since its high Milage or will I be ok plus gaskets and other engine hardware I might need
Don't short out of fuel upgrades either. You don't want to invest all that money into the car to have it malfunction and lean out and boom.
IMO if I wanted 600awhp I'd refresh the block and head then do rods, pistons, cams, springs + retainers, tcase, tranny, clutch, flywheel, big fuel pump, big injectors, ported manifolds, fmic, intake, exhaust, big turbo and a good tune. I'm sure I'm forgetting some stuff, but you get the idea.
I think the question you have to consider is what you will be doing with the car. A 600hp daily driver isn't the same as a 600hp drag car, which also isn't the same as a 600hp road race car.
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I agree 600hp means reliability may be a crap shoot.
I was saying rebuilding the TCase wasn't necessary (like a SHEP stage 1 and up). If you are talking about a rebuilt to stock that s a little different. I think thats a little unnecessary but for piece of mind (if you have the extra cash) you can have Shep check it. They will more then likely tell you they need to rebuild it regardless.
I'd say keep the fluids fresh and if there is no deathwhine, keep it moving.
I was saying rebuilding the TCase wasn't necessary (like a SHEP stage 1 and up). If you are talking about a rebuilt to stock that s a little different. I think thats a little unnecessary but for piece of mind (if you have the extra cash) you can have Shep check it. They will more then likely tell you they need to rebuild it regardless.
I'd say keep the fluids fresh and if there is no deathwhine, keep it moving.
+1 600hp and reliable daily driven is do able but not practical IMO. If I were you and I'm just saying if it was I, I would take that money and buy a cheap 3k or less beater to daily and then make a reliable 600hp evo. Be honest to yourself how long do you think 600hp is gonna last on a 175k mile car? Also read a engine and trans removal FAQ and buy a cheap harbor freight cherry picker for $100 and save yourself the money the guy is gonna charge you on motor removal. Not trying to insult by any means but be smart about this. That's a lot of money you can spend wisely
+1 600hp and reliable daily driven is do able but not practical IMO. If I were you and I'm just saying if it was I, I would take that money and buy a cheap 3k or less beater to daily and then make a reliable 600hp evo. Be honest to yourself how long do you think 600hp is gonna last on a 175k mile car? Also read a engine and trans removal FAQ and buy a cheap harbor freight cherry picker for $100 and save yourself the money the guy is gonna charge you on motor removal. Not trying to insult by any means but be smart about this. That's a lot of money you can spend wisely
Or take that $3k and buy a 1G Talon and make that a 600hp track car and daily the Evo






