Same story over here, sometimes slow flashing, sometimes fast, sometimes nothing for days or weeks at a time. Had them adjust the tune a few times but it just doesn't knock in their presence so there's nothing for them to fix. Learning how to log it myself to show what's going on. They always welcome me to come back and take another look. But sometimes it won't do it for ages, sometimes I fix one thing and it goes away, then appears again.

Troubleshooting adventures so far: Plugs are fine. Got a new fuel pump just for the hell of it. Doing another boost leak test today, I just replaced my TB seals and fixed the EGR valve hoses that popped off, I was barely holding 10 PSI before. Blackstone oil analysis says it's fantastic. What's next, compression test?

I thought that knock caused by a boost leak was because of the turbo trying to compensate for the pressure or something like that, and then running too fast, pumping air that's too hot. I'm assuming that for it to pump air thats too hot it would take a while, right? Because I can go out on a cold morning, warm the car up, and right as I begin to spool BLINK BLINK BLINK BLINK BLINK. Can an overworked turbo really start cooking that fast? I'd imagine it would take a few pulls, but hell if I know.

I also hear kind of a crunchy rattle the moment I get the CEL flash. Obviously at this point I let off the gas, so I never get to feel if the ECU is pulling timing and boost because I don't intend to stay on it to see how bad it gets. The sound isn't loud but sometimes it's there, marbles in a tin can, that type of thing. Also I wonder maybe it's not a metallic sound at all, maybe it's the expanding rubber couplers on the stock UICP hitting the radiator fan? Because I do see black marks on it. I can go all day with these theories.

Could it be something goofy like my downpipe not matching my catback and just some kind of crazy resonance creating some back pressure? I don't know what I'm talking about cause I'm not a mechanic and this was supposed to be a little hobby on the side. I was hoping that for almost stock 300whp I wouldn't have to buy a logging cable, wideband, boost gauge, etc etc etc, just tune it and forget it. But no, here we are almost a year later.

 

Can someone post the one magical thing that will make this all better? Thanks.

 

yes

get tuned by a competent tuner

 

But who is more competent than Scot? Some quantum mechanics dude over at Ralliart? If RRE can't do it then we might as well ride bikes.

 

Hobbies are like that, you become more involved. So, log the car and get back to us.

 

check for codes

 

No codes to clear according to evoscan. Trying to figure out what I'm supposed to be logging and if I can get any useful information without a wideband.

Sorry OP for hijacking your thread but we're kinda in the same boat, maybe some of this troubleshooting will overlap.

 

That marbles in a can sound sounds like most descriptions of detonation to me. I haven't heard it myself but it is usually described as a metallic jingle. Here are the things I think you should log.

AFR (if you could)
Knocksum
Boost/MAP
Timing advance (?)

 

mine is set at a 2 count. i do get the occasional flash in the situation your describing...basically, you're requesting more boost than your injectors can deliver in fuel at that rpm. your timing could also be a bit too aggressive and be causing issues, remember tuning is generally done for maximum timing, best torque (with as little knock as possible). there will always be places (such as the high gear, high load situation) in which the tune isn't set-up perfectly for. the flashing CEL is simply a warning.

you have two options...ignore it and get out of the power if it flashes. or get a retune and have them pull a bit out of the load cells in that area. both are good options.

if its set at a really low knock count (like 2) your never actually going to break anything, but i'd still have it looked at when you go back in.

Enjoy your reflashed car!

 

I remember my tuner asked me how i wanted my car tune for track. i told him i use my car dd. he told me he was gonna tune it aggressive. maybe i have to drive it hard constantly instead of babying it.

 

If RRE can't figure out the problem despite multiple attempts, why go back? I was tuned by RRE as well, right after Christmas. Day after the tune I had issues with boost cut and knock. They told me to check the ignition system and MAP sensor they installed. I got impatient and contacted a well-known EcuFlash expert on these forums and now I'm just waiting on an OEM MAP sensor to hook back up since my ROM doesn't even contain the necessary parameters for using the MAP sensor for ECU-controlled boost, despite me paying for it. Going on 2 weeks that RRE has dodged my last email, 3 days since I called, so we'll see if they own up to it or not. My advice, if you don't want to drive several hours to a tuner, find a reputable online tuner. I thought RRE was a good option, I was wrong.