Hey All Having Starting Problems... For A Year And A half now. When I turn The Key It Goes ClIck This Is My Third starter. Sometimes It Starts then About 50% Of The Time clicking Happens. My Alternator Still Charges, My Battery Isnt Dead But Im Guessing Its not Holding A Charge As Good As It Use To But Its only About 7Months Old And also Im In Az. I Have Hks 272 Cams And An Exedy Twin Plate Clutch With A New Fly Wheel...Would These Parts Cause Starting ToBe a Little Tough?? Im Thinking It Would Be But Not That Much. Please Someone Give Me Some Info.
Other Upgrades;
wingz performance tune
Walborro 255
1450 Injectors
Fp White Turbo
Full Exhaust
Ets Intercooler W/ 2 1/2" Piping
Sd Tune
E85
440Hp 410Tq @28psi

 

Do a search, lots of people are having this problem (myself included)

Some possible problem areas/ solutions.

Starter switch is rotating in mount / adjust switch and tighten down (didn't work for me)

Starter relay going bad / replace starter relay (didn't work for me)

Starter going bad / replace or rebuild your starter (not working for me)

wiring problem (next area I am going to chase down.

 

I had this problem on an old 67 GTO, turns out the connections to the battery terminals was corroded. I would check and clean the connections with a wire brush. It is probably unlikely that this is the problem but it's a freebie to check .

 

I got the same f$#%ing problem. Battery is good, alternator is good, I thought it was the starter but reading from hatesposers I guess thats not the problem. I'm gonna check the wiring tomorrow at work and I'll report back.

 

What Ive noticed is that it does it more often when the car is hot, if you let it sit for a while it starts right away. Now the starter is under the turbo so its gonna get hot.

 

Yeah I Have Noticed That The Majority Of The Time, The Starter Is hot .
But I've Cleaned My Terminals And Everything...But Still Nothing.Its Also A Daily Driver So The Battery IS Constantly Being Charged....So I'm Kind S.o.l For Now...But Thanks Guys

 

I had an issue just like that and it ended up being a very dirty starter and oil/dirt covering some of the wires for the power to the starter. I took off my starter, disassembled it, cleaned everything and then slapped it back on... Now it's been starting just fine for the past year.

 

Also on a friends car I fixed for this same starter issue he had oil/dirt covering wires leading to the starter and the wires were loose. It was an easy fix just cleaning things up and tightening a couple bolts.

 

I've never heard of any issues like that out in the hot heat of Vegas which is similar to the Az heat you deal with. But hey I guess anything is possible. My evo surprises me all the time with things.

 

I think I have chased down my problem... Take a look here:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...sible-fix.html

 

Guys. Anyone ever check draw at the starter power wire?

Seems like people believe these wires last forever and never check amperage,just voltage.......

Then they add a relay kit and think they solved the problem. When they could have just changed a starter power wire....

 

Starter wire was replaced with all of my other high power wires long ago. and yes, the starting draw was tested on my car along with the battery.

Thanks for the sarcasim though.

 

It's not sarcasm really, it's basic electrical. Just for people who never check that wire for draw.

BTW: Ever check that wire when it was Hot and not cold. Makes a Hell of a difference...

But, I have come to find out that mitsu even sells a relay kit which is beyond me. If they can't get their own starters to work with factory wiring is crazy.

So sorry if that came across wrong.

 

No worries. but yes it was checked...

In my case, it's not that there's an excessive draw from the starter, it's that for some reason, there is not enough power being transfered to the solenoid, therefore the solenoid is not making contact between the starter and the starter wire... In reading another thread, VIS racing has/had this exact same problem, and it was resolved by replacing a wire in the harness in the solenoid circuit.



I am wondering if the problem lies in a design flaw where the solenoid wire is either too small (creating high resistance), or if there's a connection somewhere prone to corrosion (again causing high resistance), thus not transferring the needed electrical power to the solenoid.

Yes, I did check it both connected and not connected. In fact, for a full month I ran around with a volt meter in my glove box wired directly to my solenoid wire to check. I am getting 7 volts (within 1 volt from that wire depending on the temperature), which was consistent between start and no-start conditions.

I also checked this wire not connected to the solenoid, and was only getting 7-8 volts. In fact in my testing listed on the other thread about this, I once had a no-start condition, then with someone in a key-on start state, with a no-start condition, I jumped the solenoid from the starter wire. The car started, and she said the volt gauge read 11-12V during the jump.

I am 100 % convinced that my problem (and at least a few others) has to do with the solenoid circuit... unfortunately, I do not have time to trouble shoot the circuit, as I only have 4 days off a month. So, I installed a relay in the solenoid circuit to shoot 12V directly from the starter wire. (a 10 min fix). I do plan on troubleshooting the circuit, but won't be able to touch it till June 15th...

 

ok So I've Now Replaced My Starter Two Weeks Ago And My Battery Last Week AndNowMyCar Is Going Click When I Turn The Key Again. Next Thinking Of It Being Three Other Problems. The Alternator, The Ignition Switch Our The Fuel Pump