Guys,

I'm getting my IX ready to head in for a tune and I want to make sure I have my basis covered so that it's a good use of time. My fluids are all changed, a new clutch was just installed, I've upgraded the fuel pump, my tires are in good shape... I'm wondering what else I need to think about to make it a smooth process.

I do have a warped brake rotor and I may have a tie rod end that needs to be replaced, but do I need to worry about that before heading to the dyno? Anything else I need to pay particular attention to in order to make sure I don't get turned away for a tune? Thanks!

-Mike

 

If you just installed the clutch I would finish the break-in period first. Make sure you exhaust isn't rattling against anything, fresh spark plugs, inspect vacuum lines, and do a boost leak test.

 

^+1 Especially the boost leak test...so many stories of cars needing more than one boost leak fixed on the dyno before being able to do any actual tuning.

I got turned away from my first tune because I had crappy gas in the tank....would break up at WOT on the dyno so they quickly sent me on my marry way...LOL I had to go through that tank and fill up at Unocal 76.

So, make sure you have quality gas in your tank instead of the cheaper mom and pop station around the corner.

This was my experience.

 

If your car is "safe" (re the tie rod end) then you'll be ok. But the last place you want something failing is on a dyno... because your car will get destroyed, and people could be seriously injured.

The #1 thing I can't stress enough, is to do a boost leak test. Use a spray bottle with soapy water, and check it up to 25psi.

 

Thanks for all of the tips guys. Great stuff as usual. I was on board with the boost leak test already but hadn't thought of some of the other considerations. All great info.

-Mike

 

Do you have any gauges installed? First time I went, i had boost and afr gauges.

 

I asked the same question a month ago

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...rior-tune.html

 

 

One major thing to look for is LEAKS. Any leak will (or should) get you turned away from the dyno. Make sure u check your seals, filters, drive train etc to make sure everything is tight. Also make sure all of your clamps are tight on your IC piping and if u can afford it do a compression test aside from the boost leak test. I've seen motors blow on the dyno due to compression issues smh Not pretty.

 

+1 on fresh spark plugs gapped appropriately and a boost leak test.

 

have any other mods besides pump n clutch? I'm just curious.

 

+1 on boost leaks and spark plugs. Also, removing the understray prior to arrival would save the tuner to time in strapping down the car.

I've heard of a few people having the boost controller hooked up wrong, or the boost controller not working at all. Check to make sure yours is actually working. MBCs like Hallman sometimes get stuck.

Also check for exhaust leaks, especially pre-turbo.

The less time the tuner spend fixing your car, the more time they spend tuning, and the less you eventually pay out of pocket. Good Luck.

 

+1 on the spark plugs and fuel.

 

Bunch of bolt-ons: ARC intercooler, HKS intake, Tanabe downpipe/cat back, Burcher 65mm throttle body and ported intake manifold, Walbro fuel pump, exedy HD clutch.

I'll be installing new intercooler piping this weekend and I'll eventually get the suspension installed but I need to make some room in the garage before I can tackle that one. Same goes for the radiator, but that's mostly because I've been too lazy to install my new one.

I think that about covers it.

-Mike

 

On the plugs, are you guys going OEM? I'm due to replace them anyway and was planning on going OEM as I've never had issues with them in the past.

-Mike