They've replaced the plugs and coilpaks, not sure about the wires. According to them it is still doing it. They believe the fuel pressure is now to high. They're saying it is up to 62 psi when the engine is under load. Does anyone know what factory specs are? They are also considering a problem in the wiring harness again. Dear god is this getting old. To top it all off the tech calls the tech line and they start trying to tell him it's the ****ing turbo again. So, he's like no we just replaced that and then they have no idea what to do. How the hell is that a help to their mechanics? Come on mitsubishi, help a brother out. Here I am trying not to slam the **** out of this car company and be proud to own this car and this is the support they give their employees not to mention customers.

 

Another direction to investigate is to have them replace the fuel injectors.. I have what feels like the symptoms of a misfire/fuel cut, but never could find anything wrong, went through testing the coil packs, replaced the plugs and wires.. I recently installed an S-AVCR (An electronic boost controller) but didn't have the time to install the solenoid, so the entire stock boost solenoid is still installed.. I have an aftermarket exhaust so I get a bit of boost spike.. But I discovered that the fuel injectors were at 99.9% duty cycle when I looked at the peak hold feature on the AVCR This was immediately after experiencing the exact same thing, loading the car at a higher gear (like passing a car or getting onto a freeway) I would get what felt like stumbling, mild fuel cut, or a misfire.. never triggering a Check engine light though and no stored 0300 code..

I don't have a high level of confidence in the troubleshooting abilities of many "Dealer mechanics".. Its sort of like the typical MCSE in the computer field, they passed the test, but don't have the ability to troubleshoot a real problem, or think outside the scope of their training.

At this point, you've replaced most things that could cause a problem with the exception of the Injectors (from what I could gather from your thread)

 

and if the mechanics didn't already know... we have rising rate fuel regulators.. the pressure will go up when engine speed goes up, and that pressure doesn't sound "Wrong" though I don't know offhand for certain, but I've seen pressures that high on other types of performance cars.

Oh, and for what its worth, a problem in the wiring harness should almost always result in the ECU throwing a code... Especially if their suspecting the ignition harness or fuel injector harness.. since an open circuit condition or a shorted condition when its not expected should cause the ECU to store an error if it doesnt trigger a check engine light.

 

Another thought (Since I'm already rambling) if the fuel pressure is climbing higher than they expect.. that could most certainly be a restriction in the fuel rail, defective fuel injector, or whatnot..

 

maybe the tech wanted to replace the turbo to gain experiance haaaaaaaa. sorry man to hear about all this. i think its one of your pistons because they replaced alll this with no answer. i really think ots your engine itself.

 

anyways. the dealer changed my rotors 3 times because the got wraped and they just got wraped again so i will see them soon haaaaaaa. I promise i am baby seating them like a one year old kid and they still get warped. i thought i should keep doing this until they get a r recallll haaaaa

 

Update on my situation. I posted earlier saying I think we found out that my fuel pump controller was bad .... WRONG... it was a loose wire in the wiring harness to the ecu! Arrrrghgggg We found it by simply testing the wire from the fuel pump controller harness to the ecu and measured the resistance and the manual gave a tolerance of at least 1 megaohm and we got like 16 kiloohms. We just ran a straight wire from the fuel pump controller harness to the ecu and we got 5 megaohms, so we decided the connector on the ecu harness was loose as terds and we also saw it after trying to get a connectivity check to go through and having to jab the probe around to get it to work. Word to the wise, don't pull on those wires when removing ecu plugs

 

The dealer replaced the fuel rail, pressure regulator, and injectors yesterday and it is still stumbling. They did figure out that the fuel pressure is in spec. As far as it being a cylinder I would have to think it would do it all the time not just at a certain rpm in a certain gear. Besides they did a compression check and the compression is good. Az3ar try replacing your factory pads with some good aftermarket pads, I don't believe the problem is your rotors. The dealer has pretty much exhausted all potential problems and even he has advised to start lemon law proceedings. So, here we go I was trying to avoid this but, I clearly have no choice.

 

Has anyone ever gone through the lemon law preccedings? I can't imagine it being as simple as "Yup, it sure is a lemon. Here's your new car." I know that mitsubishi has 15 calendar days from when I start the dispute resolution to send someone to try and fix it or determin if it is a lemon. I'm curious if I will need a lawyer even if they agree to give me a new car. I also wonder if they just give me a new car staight up or is there some sort of charge I have to pay? I would have to think it's to replace my defective car and therefore an even trade.

 

i wish it was that easy

 

are u guys using 91 or 93 octaine? Lol it would be pretty funny if ur using crap gas and the engine is knocking.

 

It's not crap gas and it's not detonation.

 

Were they able to tell which cylinder was misfiring from the P0300 code? Just wondering because on Hondas, if a misfire is detected, then another code will follow and tells you which cylinder/s is coming from.

 

Yeah when I brought it in at first there was the 0300 code. Then after they changed the turbo it was a 0304 code. Then some where along the line it threw a 0302. As of lately it hasn't thown a code. This morning they unplugged the knock sensor and the problem magicly went away. When they plugged it back in it came back. Unplugged it it went away again. So they now believe it is a faulty knock sensor which they are replacing tomorrow. There is still no detectible detonation so the sensor is either faulty or the engine is generating some sort of harmonic that the sensor is picking up, either way I'll know tomorrow if it's the sensor or the engine. I'm hoping like hell it's the sensor.

 

Well the wire was not the problem either. My car now idles rough. Measured the fuel pump voltage and it jumps from 4.XX volts to 5.4 volts when out of the throttle and after getting in the throttle jumps back down to 4.XX volts, which is probably normal, but the car idles rough now too, so I am getting it dyno tuned tommorrow and will get to the bottom of this shacanery