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Evo ix issue after motor swap

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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 03:12 PM
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Evo ix issue after motor swap

Hello,

I will give a little back story on this so it will make a little more sense.

I bought a 42K mile completely stock electric blue evo ix around this time last year. I got the mod bug after a month or so and i bought all the mods to make it full bolt on. Full exhaust, intercooler pipes/FMIC, grimmspeed 3 port, intake, got a slightly modded intake manifold with the emission ports/sensors deleted from a buddy, and a few other things including an omni 4 bar.
We installed all those things one night and he had tuned a few cars including his before me so I trusted him with tuning mine. Well he ended up putting cylinder #3 rod though the block on both sides and cracking part of the tcase and wedging some parts of the piston between the valves.

After saving up and selling some wheels that i collected I ended up getting a stage 1 map 2.3 stroker from map, kelford 272's, gsc beehives and valves, ETS v band 5855 turbo kit, exedy twin HD, stage 1 tcase upgrade from shep, ets 4" FMIC, full 3" exhaust with aluminum downpipe back, and a few other parts.

I let my buddy tune the car again after some friends and i put everything back together and back in the car over winter time. Car ran ok and had 0 issues with it. everything worked and i was happy with it.

June 9th, 2012 I was on my way up to Burlington, VT to go back to my apartment from my parents house in reading, PA since I started my new job 2 weeks earlier and came home for a going away party. I was about an hour away from my apartment on my 7 hour trip at about 1230am when I hit a cow in the middle of the road over a small hill on the road and that impact knocked me and from the airbag which spun me into a tree where it hit behind my driver side door. That put me in and out of consciousness until the ambulance came and flew me to darthsmouth in new hampshire. I had a blood clot the size of a chicken egg in my head, they put me in a coma, broken ribs and collarbone, collapsed lung, and the other one was filling up with blood. Anyways im almost fine now about 95% back to normal I would say.

I ended up buying the wrecked evo back and took the motor, trans, tcase, wiring harness, and rear diff off the car and scrapped the rest. the entire rest of the car was destroyed. they removed the roof and doors to get me out of it.

About 3 months ago i got a WW evo ix shell with only the tcase, motor, trans, and a few other things missing i was told.

A few friends and i over the next month or so assembled/timed everything and put in the car. after having to solder a gap in 2 of the maf wires, map, fuel pump and injectors plugs on the wiring of the existing harness we finally got it running. the ECU was swapped over from my old car into the new car and immobilizer was deactivated.

So my issue is I have a cel which is the first 02 sensor and the iat sensor? The car becomes very lean at idle/cruising (leaner then 17/1 afr) but when in boost or under load or a quick stab of the throttle the afr's go down to normal. I replaced with a new o2 sensor on the 02 housing and that didn't do anything.

does anyone have an idea why it's running lean at cruising/idle?

Thanks for the help guys! it's been an interesting past few months.

Here are some pics of everything.





































Last edited by a.care138; Oct 11, 2013 at 03:16 PM. Reason: pictures
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 07:20 PM
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Bump/ any insite?
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Old Oct 10, 2013 | 07:32 PM
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Wow thats crazy man you really hit a cow? glad your well tho!

Honest you already tried the first two things I would have tried

my guess its just a bad tune, with the screwy idle,

If he messed up the first tune THAT bad, id prolly try taking it to a reputable shop,

- Phil
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 06:07 AM
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Originally Posted by TreatsIX
Wow thats crazy man you really hit a cow? glad your well tho!

Honest you already tried the first two things I would have tried

my guess its just a bad tune, with the screwy idle,

If he messed up the first tune THAT bad, id prolly try taking it to a reputable shop,

- Phil
Thanks for the response Phil.

I boost leak tested and fixed any small leaks I had. The car had a steady idle, consistent smooth cruising, and a smooth transition to boost before in the old car. I also had no CEl's so there is something up somewhere and I can't pin point it.
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 08:38 AM
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seeing that you have a bad IAT code leads me to believe you have a bad maf maybe?, which can also cause odd idle characteristics

Last edited by minimarine09; Oct 11, 2013 at 08:52 AM.
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 09:15 AM
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From: York, PA
Hey man! I see that your local and I recognize your story from FaceBook! Glad your ok! Can I ask who your tuner was that threw the rod through your block? I saw your friends with Eric so I would contact Grant Zartman, he can can deff locate the issue and get the car running correctly ASAP!
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by minimarine09
seeing that you have a bad IAT code leads me to believe you have a bad maf maybe?, which can also cause odd idle characteristics
The MAF was fine before that's why I'm confused how it went bad all of a sudden. I did have to solder and add 2 wires to 2 of the MAF wires to connect them. A missing section was out at the end at the plug. I guess i could try another maf.

Originally Posted by EVOjunky
Hey man! I see that your local and I recognize your story from FaceBook! Glad your ok! Can I ask who your tuner was that threw the rod through your block? I saw your friends with Eric so I would contact Grant Zartman, he can can deff locate the issue and get the car running correctly ASAP!
That's who tuned it the first two times. Thanks for the suggestion though and I'm in Vermont right now but will be home in a few weeks. We should meet up sometime.
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 03:56 PM
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ahhh dang dude, glad you're alright.
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 05:17 PM
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DAMN at least you're okay man!!! I would back probe the sensor with a multimeter to make sure it's getting the correct voltage. 2 of the wires are heater wires and should be getting 12v and the other two should fluctuate between 0v-5v. If that all checks out okay, then check your latencies. To adjust the idle you'll want to add injector pulse width to voltages from ~12v and lower and to increase more fuel at cruise you want to add pulse width to voltages ~13v+

What size are your injectors? Give this a good read

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...upermerge.html
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by st0mp860
ahhh dang dude, glad you're alright.
Thanks man

Originally Posted by hiboost2.0
DAMN at least you're okay man!!! I would back probe the sensor with a multimeter to make sure it's getting the correct voltage. 2 of the wires are heater wires and should be getting 12v and the other two should fluctuate between 0v-5v. If that all checks out okay, then check your latencies. To adjust the idle you'll want to add injector pulse width to voltages from ~12v and lower and to increase more fuel at cruise you want to add pulse width to voltages ~13v+

What size are your injectors? Give this a good read

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...upermerge.html
Thanks for all the info! I have FIC 1050's. The ONLY part changed up from the old setup and old tune was going from a 3" ETS FMIC to a 4" ETS FMIC. That's why im concerned about something not being right. It never had an idling or cruising issue's in the old car and everything was directly swapped over including the ECU. I will def check the MAF wires when I get home to make sure they are all reading correctly.
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by a.care138
Thanks man



Thanks for all the info! I have FIC 1050's. The ONLY part changed up from the old setup and old tune was going from a 3" ETS FMIC to a 4" ETS FMIC. That's why im concerned about something not being right. It never had an idling or cruising issue's in the old car and everything was directly swapped over including the ECU. I will def check the MAF wires when I get home to make sure they are all reading correctly.
Reason why I think it's your latencies is because I'm pretty sure when you go WOT (which you said was giving you good AFRs) the ecu refers to the high octane fuel map rather than the injector scalings and latencies.

I would compare your latencies the the ones listed in that thread.

And no problem buddy.
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Old Oct 11, 2013 | 07:38 PM
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Side note, Nice to see someone that roams the Burlington area! I'm about 15-20 minutes from burlington, I live in Hinesburg and rock an 03 TB Evo 8. Hopefully ill get to see that new white one out and about up here sometime.
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 01:38 AM
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Originally Posted by hiboost2.0
Reason why I think it's your latencies is because I'm pretty sure when you go WOT (which you said was giving you good AFRs) the ecu refers to the high octane fuel map rather than the injector scalings and latencies.

I would compare your latencies the the ones listed in that thread.

And no problem buddy.
i thought scalings/ latencies, have nothing to do with open/ closed loop operation? i mean the scaling/ latencies are basically the ways to dial in the size of your injectors/ dead time, but going WOT shouldnt make the ecu ignore that. im pretty sure all it does is switch the ecu from depending on the front o2 sensor reading to determine how much fuel to add/ take away (closed loop) to reading the high octane fuel map and just following that (open loop).

im new to tuning, but dont you need to have your scaling and latencies set up regardless whether you are tuning open or closed loop?

what the OP is stating sounds like a front o2 sensor or bad maf/ wiring, since he had to fix some maf wiring thats where my money is, perhaps a ground is damaged or one of the solder points arent right or shorting to something? i mean im just throwing shots in the dark, but if it were the scaling and latencies, shouldnt it have the issue whether its in closed or open loop?
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 04:24 AM
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Dude Im glad youre okay!!! I hope youre doing well cause that looks pretty insane! I didnt know cows can do such a thing. Here in Hawaii, Ive never seen a cow on a road before, and I never knew a cow can do such a thing. I wish I could find an EB Lancer Evolution IX, so Im sad to see it like that, but Im even more glad it protected you and saved your life! Again, Im still stunned that all that happened from hitting a cow. Sorry I couldnt post anything useful, but Im glad you shared your story and I hope everything works out for you!
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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 05:47 AM
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[QUOTE=a.care138;10985914]Thanks man

Yeah man, a car can always be replaced but you can't.
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