I talked to my builder and he said that Rust does not build up on aluminum. but I think I saw rust or maybe oxidation on my piston head I didn't get a good look of my cylinder wall but I will update you with that. I saw like maybe five spots of rust spreaded out

 

I talked to my builder and he said that Rust does not build up on aluminum. but I think I saw rust or maybe oxidation on my piston head I didn't get a good look of my cylinder wall but I will update you with that. I saw like maybe five spots of rust spreaded out

 

I talked to my builder and send pics to him of my crank and my cylinder walls and he told me that it's okay. I'm going to apply conventional oil all over the cams as lube and drain it when I'm ready to put the break in oil.

 

let me know how this works I'm in a similar situation it's it looks like rust but it's just sparse spots spread around not that much..my motor has been sitting for about two years also. Wondering if just lubing it would do the trick...

 

From my understanding if it looks like a surface rust, then just lube it with oil and turn it over or prime the oil pump. Check the crank and see how rusted it is. Like someone else said, put a tablespoon of oil down the spark plug holes. I'm going to rtv the oil pan and lube my motor with oil tommorow. And then turn it over. I'm so exited. I'll post the pics up of the surface rust.

 

Here's a pic

 

on top of my piston

 

Glad to see your engine is in the clear.
I boreoscoped mine and was also lucky to not yet have any issues. Feeling good I wrapped the engine up before storage. I have however dropped in some oil for added safety.

 

yea, I decided to put conventional Penzoil oil in for the time being. When i am ready to start it up, I will drain it out and put the RP break in oil. I turned the motor over and it turns pretty easy and getting great compression out of all cylinders. Its starting to look great. I attatched my new 5-speed and put the motor in today. Almost done and i appreciate all the help everybody!

 

Best way to prime the motor is to pull the timing belt and spin the pump CW with a drill while the motor is still out.. Make sure you have the oil cooler bosses looped. Reinstall timing belt and you should be good to go. I would also give each cylinder a 5 second shot of WD-40.

 

cool thanks man. since the oil pump is driven by the crankshaft, shouldn't I be able to just turn the crankshaft pulley or your way another way to prime it?

 

The benefit of just spinning the oil pump gear is priming the system without spinning the rest of the motor while it is dry. If you crank the entire motor over it really defeats the purposes. Some argue that you can just disable the fuel pump and crank the motor with the starter to get oil flowing without firing, which will work fine, but on a fresh build I feel more comfortable knowing the oil is there before things start moving.

Another thing you should consider is bench bleeding the lifters. Theres is a write-up evomoto I believe on how to do it. Essentially what your are doing is getting them full of fluid before you start the car. Otherwise you will get pretty sever ticking on start-up from your rocker arms slapping the top of your valve stems.

 

Here is a pic of my motor. My evo is Phoenix red.