How stiff is your Evo?
Here's a hint to make this trick work well. Line up your floor jack with front door handles. Both the front and rear will come up at the same time. Assuming you didn't change the weight balance significantly with mad weight reduction. I swap brake pads and tires for every track day and this is a trick that let's me do it quickly.
Here's a hint to make this trick work well. Line up your floor jack with front door handles. Both the front and rear will come up at the same time. Assuming you didn't change the weight balance significantly with mad weight reduction. I swap brake pads and tires for every track day and this is a trick that let's me do it quickly.
The steel pinch rail here is in 2 layers instead of 3 like at the jack point. But I always prefer putting the jack stand itself at the jack point. And both points will bend if you are rough with it, but nothing bad happens even after it bends. Some racers actually just hammer it all down.
I used to use the front crossmember and rear diff as the jack points. Then I actually bent the OEM front cross member from repeated jacking. Albeit I was jacking a few inches behind the jack pad because thats the only way to get meaningful lift with a 1.5ton jack. So now I do it at the pinch rail, and it feels much safer too as long as the opposite 2 wheels are on the ground.
I used to use the front crossmember and rear diff as the jack points. Then I actually bent the OEM front cross member from repeated jacking. Albeit I was jacking a few inches behind the jack pad because thats the only way to get meaningful lift with a 1.5ton jack. So now I do it at the pinch rail, and it feels much safer too as long as the opposite 2 wheels are on the ground.
The steel pinch rail here is in 2 layers instead of 3 like at the jack point. But I always prefer putting the jack stand itself at the jack point. And both points will bend if you are rough with it, but nothing bad happens even after it bends. Some racers actually just hammer it all down.
I used to use the front crossmember and rear diff as the jack points. Then I actually bent the OEM front cross member from repeated jacking. Albeit I was jacking a few inches behind the jack pad because thats the only way to get meaningful lift with a 1.5ton jack. So now I do it at the pinch rail, and it feels much safer too as long as the opposite 2 wheels are on the ground.
I used to use the front crossmember and rear diff as the jack points. Then I actually bent the OEM front cross member from repeated jacking. Albeit I was jacking a few inches behind the jack pad because thats the only way to get meaningful lift with a 1.5ton jack. So now I do it at the pinch rail, and it feels much safer too as long as the opposite 2 wheels are on the ground.
I have the exact same jack (rebranded) that I take to events. Its a POS eh? But its light and portable. I like it at a height where I can have my back comfortable as I change pads.
As I said earlier everyone knows when I'm changing my camber due to the squeaking from the jack. But, it fits perfectly in the rear seat footwells, is light as hell, and doesn't leak down. So, it fits the bill for me.
I had the exact same jack and it crapped out on me after 1.5 years. I bought another one and its been fine for a year now. I like the jack a lot and it works fine. When it doesn't break lol.
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