If it works for the GTR guys why wouldn't it work for an evo? Since everyone wants to make fun of bildge pumps I can upgrade the fans once the hardware is in place.

As far as driving goes the evo I am comparing mine to a local evo.
Which runs about 3-4 seconds slower than the gt3 spec cars that run on that track.
It is a bunch of tight turns with one long straight that I can top out 4th in.

Everyone that is telling me they have no overheating problems in this thread is not running 500+hp. Guess the guys with more power dont do 20 min track sessions in full weight stock appearing cars.

 

100-5 isn't a super useful test because you'll most likely never do that in a real HPDE. Also 100-5 in say 200ft is a complete different set of heat than the same 100-5 in 300/400ft. Truthfully if you've built a 500hp car and you want to track it and drive it to its full potential you are going to need to do the equivalent work to get your braking system up to snuff. So if that's hacking up the front of the car, undertray, different discs, compounds etc. etc. then you have to do it. If you want to keep it street friendly at the track then drop the hp. Its not rocket science.

Alternatively just adjust how you drive...the biggest problem for you is really going to be at the end of long straights and maybe after a set of some high-speed corners where that extra power leaves you with more speed to bleed off. If you let off a little earlier and lengthen the braking zone you probably don't generate as much heat as if you go flat out and continue with the same braking zones you had with 300hp.

Also comparing to the other car/driver isn't much help since they may drive completely differently than you.

 

I think you should have posted this in the motorsports section so you can get the advice of drivers with around your power levels. Only problem is that the real good drivers start to drop weight to help the brakes and suspension out.

 

I keep asking you about pads and you respond that you are rubbing ST40s. As far as i know thats's stoptechs big brake kit correct? What pad are you using? I thought you would get where i was coming from in me asking this, but your response of "whatever green fade is" now indicates that you dont

If you are running too mild of a pad (such as the street/"performance" pads included with the ST40s)... Then the pads will produce more heat with less stopping power As such you are longer/harder on the brakes with less stopping power than with a more aggressive pad causing the heating issues you are talking about

For information on brake pads and compounds check out porterfield's site. They make 3 different compounds of pads. Performance Street/autocross pads. Track pads and endurance pads. If you use the endurance pads on thr street, the pads will never get up to operating temps. Conversely if you use the performance street/autocross pads on a multi lap high speed track, the pads will overheat and glaze causing severe fade.

As for fluid. Motul makes different types of fluids for different temperature ranges/uses. While the 600 is the highest temp, i would not use it on the street as it is very hydroscopic. Which means its fine the first few weeks but as it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere causing it to lose efficacy over time

The problem i see here is that you are looking for bandaid solutions for a poor initial design.

 

Post #28 pcf-01 I dont mess around with "semi" anything. Race pads for the track and street pads on the street. No compromise. Just like summer tires in the summer and winter tires in the winter, no all season bs.

 

I couldn't have said it better myself