WGA question
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
From: New Zealand
WGA question
Hey
Car is tuned to run max boost of 21 PSI.
I believe my WGA is going out as boost is starting very late (3500 and upwards in 2nd/3rd) even with a 3" turbo back, better intake etcetcetc.
Which is a more preferable scenario:
- Get a WGA with stock pressure spring and continue to use the restrictor pill?
- Get a WGA with a pressure spring of 20-22psi and remove the restrictor pill?
- Both exactly the same?
Car is tuned to run max boost of 21 PSI.
I believe my WGA is going out as boost is starting very late (3500 and upwards in 2nd/3rd) even with a 3" turbo back, better intake etcetcetc.
Which is a more preferable scenario:
- Get a WGA with stock pressure spring and continue to use the restrictor pill?
- Get a WGA with a pressure spring of 20-22psi and remove the restrictor pill?
- Both exactly the same?
What are you using for boost control? Boost leak test then do this. Forget the pill. http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...td-setting.mpg
Boost control is totally stock including stock WGA, stock diverter valve, BCS, factory vacuum/boost hose assembly, and etc. Correct?
I am just trying to get a more complete feel for the actual state of affairs with respect to the overall boost control setup on your car.
Being that this is a VI, is this a high mileage example? Is the stock VI diverter valve a plastic affair? Did you purchase the car second hand? Do VI turbos come configured with a 9.8 turbine housing or the 10.5 dual puck?
Last but not least, have you done a BLT up to about 30 PSI?
I am just trying to get a more complete feel for the actual state of affairs with respect to the overall boost control setup on your car.
Being that this is a VI, is this a high mileage example? Is the stock VI diverter valve a plastic affair? Did you purchase the car second hand? Do VI turbos come configured with a 9.8 turbine housing or the 10.5 dual puck?
Last but not least, have you done a BLT up to about 30 PSI?
Last edited by sparky; Jan 30, 2014 at 07:06 AM.
As suggested, a BLT is a good idea. However, that FP video linked by fireman, may be relevant and useful given a brand new FP HD 18# actuator and given a car with no boost leaks and etc. In those cases, given a brand-new actuator, either the "3-rotation", or, "1/2- eyelet", methods should get spring pressure within ballpark range.
However, such overly generalized and imprecise settings are not going to solve the problem on a car with a 15 year-old, high-mileage, fatigued, stock MHI 10# actuator and diaphragm, a fatigued and worn out diverter valve spring, as well as the likelihood of multiple boost leaks, and etc.
As a practical matter those two generalized, rule of thumb approaches to setting actuator rod length are not applicable in a case such as yours. It would be like taking an old, 300,000 mile jalopy with original suspension components: worn out and shot control arm bushings, a-arms, tie rod ends, blown shocks and fatigued springs in for a precision alignment. That video is just not applicable in your particular case.
However, such overly generalized and imprecise settings are not going to solve the problem on a car with a 15 year-old, high-mileage, fatigued, stock MHI 10# actuator and diaphragm, a fatigued and worn out diverter valve spring, as well as the likelihood of multiple boost leaks, and etc.
As a practical matter those two generalized, rule of thumb approaches to setting actuator rod length are not applicable in a case such as yours. It would be like taking an old, 300,000 mile jalopy with original suspension components: worn out and shot control arm bushings, a-arms, tie rod ends, blown shocks and fatigued springs in for a precision alignment. That video is just not applicable in your particular case.
Last edited by sparky; Jan 30, 2014 at 11:27 AM.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
From: New Zealand
Boost control is totally stock including stock WGA, stock diverter valve, BCS, factory vacuum/boost hose assembly, and etc. Correct?
I am just trying to get a more complete feel for the actual state of affairs with respect to the overall boost control setup on your car.
Being that this is a VI, is this a high mileage example? Is the stock VI diverter valve a plastic affair? Did you purchase the car second hand? Do VI turbos come configured with a 9.8 turbine housing or the 10.5 dual puck?
Last but not least, have you done a BLT up to about 30 PSI?
I am just trying to get a more complete feel for the actual state of affairs with respect to the overall boost control setup on your car.
Being that this is a VI, is this a high mileage example? Is the stock VI diverter valve a plastic affair? Did you purchase the car second hand? Do VI turbos come configured with a 9.8 turbine housing or the 10.5 dual puck?
Last but not least, have you done a BLT up to about 30 PSI?
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
From: New Zealand
As suggested, a BLT is a good idea. However, that FP video linked by fireman, may be relevant and useful given a brand new FP HD 18# actuator and given a car with no boost leaks and etc. In those cases, given a brand-new actuator, either the "3-rotation", or, "1/2- eyelet", methods should get spring pressure within ballpark range.
However, such overly generalized and imprecise settings are not going to solve the problem on a car with a 15 year-old, high-mileage, fatigued, stock MHI 10# actuator and diaphragm, a fatigued and worn out diverter valve spring, as well as the likelihood of multiple boost leaks, and etc.
As a practical matter those two generalized, rule of thumb approaches to setting actuator rod length are not applicable in a case such as yours. It would be like taking an old, 300,000 mile jalopy with original suspension components: worn out and shot control arm bushings, a-arms, tie rod ends, blown shocks and fatigued springs in for a precision alignment. That video is just not applicable in your particular case.
However, such overly generalized and imprecise settings are not going to solve the problem on a car with a 15 year-old, high-mileage, fatigued, stock MHI 10# actuator and diaphragm, a fatigued and worn out diverter valve spring, as well as the likelihood of multiple boost leaks, and etc.
As a practical matter those two generalized, rule of thumb approaches to setting actuator rod length are not applicable in a case such as yours. It would be like taking an old, 300,000 mile jalopy with original suspension components: worn out and shot control arm bushings, a-arms, tie rod ends, blown shocks and fatigued springs in for a precision alignment. That video is just not applicable in your particular case.
Just do the following actuator mod that I will outline for you: Remove the complete WGA assembly from your turbo. Clamp the actuator rod in the jaws of a bench vise. Remove the turnbuckle tip as well as the backup nut. Using a hacksaw or dremel cutoff wheel remove about 5/16" off the threaded tip of the actuator rod.....about 4 threads, right?
Reinstall the turnbuckle tip onto the shortened rod leaving the backup nut off. Tighten the turnbuckle tip all the way down to where the tip of the rod bottoms out in the internally threaded turnbuckle.
Reinstall the modded actuator onto the turbo. You may need a friend with strong forearms to help you pull the rod onto its home onb the flapper valve's pivot arm.....voila.
Reinstall the turnbuckle tip onto the shortened rod leaving the backup nut off. Tighten the turnbuckle tip all the way down to where the tip of the rod bottoms out in the internally threaded turnbuckle.
Reinstall the modded actuator onto the turbo. You may need a friend with strong forearms to help you pull the rod onto its home onb the flapper valve's pivot arm.....voila.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
From: New Zealand
So, i've removed the WGA and it doesn't look/sound good. If i shake it a can hear particles rattling around inside. I managed to shake it a certain way and some fell out and it looks very similar to gun powder. Any ideas?
I'm currently shopping for a new one as i figured this thing is rooted..
I'm currently shopping for a new one as i figured this thing is rooted..
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
From: New Zealand
Another question, if you get a WGA with a 18 psi spring and one with a 22 psi spring what will the difference in response be? Will the 22 psi WGA start boost later because of the spring?
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
From: New Zealand
Just to report back..
Brought a new Kinugawa WGA with a 1.2bar spring for $184 NZD.
Night and day difference, spool is (depending on the gear) 600 rpm earlier and holds well.
Very very impressed.
Brought a new Kinugawa WGA with a 1.2bar spring for $184 NZD.
Night and day difference, spool is (depending on the gear) 600 rpm earlier and holds well.
Very very impressed.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post