New memeber, problem on car..
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: new zealand
New memeber, problem on car..
hiya guys , first off ill introduce my self.
I live in new zealand and own a 93 evo 1 , with full evo 3 kit.
Have recently got a problem on my car
ever since i removed my tps, cleaned my iacv and throttle body , re-routed the intercooler pipings my car just would not idle correctly. At first the idle would be around 1200 when started, as it warms it'll drop to 1000rpm but when it is fully warmed up it was on 1500 ~ 1700 fluctuating.
Thought it'd be the iacv that i cleaned and somehow damaged so i replaced with a second hand iacv which had been tested before being sent to me from the wrecker.
Put the new iacv in and now the car idles at 2300rpm on start up and drops to 1500 when warm and just bounces up and down between 1500 and 2000 when fully warm. Adjusting the idle position screw has no effect at all on the car. Even if I actually completely take out the screw the car would idle the same.
Starting to run out of all ideas.. any help would be greatly appreciated..
I live in new zealand and own a 93 evo 1 , with full evo 3 kit.
Have recently got a problem on my car
ever since i removed my tps, cleaned my iacv and throttle body , re-routed the intercooler pipings my car just would not idle correctly. At first the idle would be around 1200 when started, as it warms it'll drop to 1000rpm but when it is fully warmed up it was on 1500 ~ 1700 fluctuating.
Thought it'd be the iacv that i cleaned and somehow damaged so i replaced with a second hand iacv which had been tested before being sent to me from the wrecker.
Put the new iacv in and now the car idles at 2300rpm on start up and drops to 1500 when warm and just bounces up and down between 1500 and 2000 when fully warm. Adjusting the idle position screw has no effect at all on the car. Even if I actually completely take out the screw the car would idle the same.
Starting to run out of all ideas.. any help would be greatly appreciated..
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Winnipeg, MB Canada
I would check all your clamps and couplers on your intercooler piping for any air leaks. Secondly I would pull my MAF and clean it just use some electrical contact cleaner and some Q-tips and be careful.
And disconnect your battery and ground the system by pumping the brakes a few times. It kind of resets the system so it will re-calibrate itself during startup. Its quick easy stuff and it might be the solution.
And disconnect your battery and ground the system by pumping the brakes a few times. It kind of resets the system so it will re-calibrate itself during startup. Its quick easy stuff and it might be the solution.
Can you log throttle position? If the TPS is off, you'll get your symptoms and chasing after idle air won't solve it. Many people knock the TPS out of position when taking the throttle body apart for cleaning.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: new zealand
sorry i'm not too sure what you mean by logging the throttle position
I've been researching and tried this
http://www.lancerregister.com/faq_f22.php
the new iacv was infact different part to the one i had in my car.
the test showed that the old iacv had coil resistance all over the show from 3 ohms to 41.
The new iacv had good coils but if I put the voltmeter between the plug and pin there is no voltage at all. System voltage is present at the plug it self though.
I've been researching and tried this
http://www.lancerregister.com/faq_f22.php
the new iacv was infact different part to the one i had in my car.
the test showed that the old iacv had coil resistance all over the show from 3 ohms to 41.
The new iacv had good coils but if I put the voltmeter between the plug and pin there is no voltage at all. System voltage is present at the plug it self though.
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