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Valve stuck to valve spring?

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Old Feb 7, 2014, 08:30 PM
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Valve stuck to valve spring?

Ok so here's the breakdown. I got a used head for an evo ix. I'm replacing valve stem seals, seats, Springs and retainers. The first two valves I did went smoothly. Compressed the spring took off the keepers and pulled out the valve.. Cleaned valve, cleaned valve seat etc. The next one I went to do when I compressed the spring had something under valve to hold it up but the valve kept moving down with the spring as I compressed it. Tried lifting the valve from the bottom and it's like stuck. So I tried another one. Same thing. The first two I did that worked were exhaust valves the next two I tried were intake valves. All for the same cylinder. The guy who sold me the head from the forums said it was a fully functional head. He only removed it to install a built head. Any ideas, suggestions, or comments are appreciated.
Old Feb 7, 2014, 09:23 PM
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If the valve is protruding (not fully seated at rest) with the cams/rockers out, you got a bent valve.
Old Feb 8, 2014, 01:28 AM
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Old Feb 8, 2014, 06:42 AM
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Sounds like the locks are "stuck" to the retainer. I would compress the spring and then tap the valve back towards the spring seat with a mallet. Not to hard of course.....you don't want to bend the valve. I would think one or two taps would probably unseat the retainer from the locks.
Old Feb 8, 2014, 07:37 AM
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I have also used a MAP torch to heat up the keepers to break em free in the past. Give it a try and see what happens.
Old Feb 8, 2014, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by michaelrc51
Sounds like the locks are "stuck" to the retainer. I would compress the spring and then tap the valve back towards the spring seat with a mallet. Not to hard of course.....you don't want to bend the valve. I would think one or two taps would probably unseat the retainer from the locks.
That's what I was thinking of doing but was scared of bending valves. Don't have a map torch. Maybe it's time I finally invest in one. Thanks for the help guys.


Edit: barely tapped bottom of valve and keepers shot out. Thanks guys. Now I got 3/16 done. Probably bang out the last 13 tomorrow on my day off.

Last edited by Sheasta; Feb 8, 2014 at 01:34 PM.
Old Feb 8, 2014, 01:41 PM
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Awesome, I'm glad it worked out for you. What springs and retainers did you end up going with? That's my next job and I have the cams and the zero tick lifters, just can't decide on what springs to go with. Way too many opinions out there on all the different options.
Old Feb 8, 2014, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by jrainwater
Awesome, I'm glad it worked out for you. What springs and retainers did you end up going with? That's my next job and I have the cams and the zero tick lifters, just can't decide on what springs to go with. Way too many opinions out there on all the different options.


Depends on your needs but I would recommend GSC 5041
Old Feb 8, 2014, 03:30 PM
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I got BR supertech dual Springs. Came with titanium seats, titanium retainers, and New valve stem seals. I will be using gsc s2 with them. I'm debating if I should also get the gsc no tick lifters. What do you guys think? Is all they do is quiet it down?
Old Feb 9, 2014, 08:25 AM
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Yeah that's all they do, they take away that annoying valvetrain tick. My FIC 1100 high z injectors are already loud as f*ck so if I can quiet down the lifters too it should help. I bought some cosworth m3's and dont plan to be reving past 8500 so the 5041 kit looks like a winner. Thanks for the suggestion
Old Feb 9, 2014, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by jrainwater
Yeah that's all they do, they take away that annoying valvetrain tick. My FIC 1100 high z injectors are already loud as f*ck so if I can quiet down the lifters too it should help. I bought some cosworth m3's and dont plan to be reving past 8500 so the 5041 kit looks like a winner. Thanks for the suggestion


I have them in my car. I had the BR Supertech dual springs but the R2 cams wouldn't work with them. The GSC 5041 have a pretty high retainer to seal clearance and are made to rev high as well.
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