Hey guys, wasent sure where to put this. Can move if necessary.

ACD -

1.) The stock ACD pump hardline is about 9' long. To me it seems like they take the long way around the passengers side of the car and across the nose to the pump, compared to just up the firewall and under the rail to the pump. My assumption is this was done as a cooling loop. I plan on moving the pump to the trunk after the rebuild is complete. The new hard line will be about 10' so close to the same length but I was going to run it inboard. Will the lack of airflow across the line have any effect on the fluid temp to the pump? Or is it even relevant and they just made the line way longer then need be for no reason?

ABS/Electrical -

1.) The round cover on the front of my pump is pitted very badly, does anyone know whats under it? Its clearly removable with the bolts its held on by but are things going to fall out or is it self contained in there and I can take it off to sandblast and stick it back on?

2.) There is 2 relays and 2 heat sinks to drivers side of the ABS pump. I ran the Denso numbers off the left one and it seems to be the starter relay. The other 3 the numbers are either faded or not there enough for me to be able to tell what they belong to. Does anyone know what all of them are and if they would be able to be moved inboard or again is the airflow necessary for there proper function?

3.) Somewhere I thought I remembered reading that there was a shielded wire in the harness that goes to the plug on the ABS pump. There's 26 (20 gauge ish) wires and 4 (14 -16 gauge ish) wires that feed the plug. None of them really stand out to me as being different. Not that I'm entirely sure that a shielded wire in fact looks any different from outside the plastic insulation. If I remember right shielded wires are usually used on magnetic and the hall effect sensors I think? So you wouldent think there would be any to the ABS pump but a concrete answer would be cool!

4.) When I disassemble the plug for the ABS pump, Id like to get new pins for the connectors. Compared to cutting the wires 6" back and soldering the longer wires in. Does anyone know of the correct pins that the plug takes and potentially where to find the crimping tool to go with?

5.) Last question because I'm feeling a bit slow tonight... Stock brake hard line is just regular 3/16 line and the flares going into the ABS pump are bubble not inverted right? I should have measured the line before I left today but I forgot and would like to order it before I trek back to the shop tomorrow night to check.

Any input would be schweet. Thanks guys

 

No thoughts? :/ Don't want to dig myself into a hole by cutting the plug.

 

1) I have never dealt with acd so i couldn't help you there. Basic knowledge of lines like that tells me you are ok with no air flow over it as long as its about the same length. Any lines that i have ever seen such as trans, oil cooler, ps cooler lines on cars and trucks have fins like the radiator and are on the front of the car. Even those I have seen people relocate without issues so I would say you are fine there. You could always take a temp reading from the line after a long ride and do the same ride after you make you changes and compare if you are that concerned.

ABS
1.) I highly doubt you can take that off. Those are not serviceable so if you do anything to it you will be buying a new one and they average like 1000$ for many cars. I would say paint it black or figure out something else

2.) Relays don't need airflow. Move them.

3) I will log into all data to see what that wire is. Does it have a color?

4) The parts department at the dealer will have the part numbers. A good crimper that I bought for terminals was like 150$ but it crimps perfectly every time. It clicks and locks as you tighten it. I forget who makes it. You will be better off borrowing one or cutting the wires and soldering. Thats alot of money if you are only going to use it for one simple job.

5) Yes 3/16 line. I use copper nickel line. VERY easy to bed and flare. I don't know what style flares they use there. I use a hydraulic flare tool that has both so I just remove one line and check to see what it is.

Not sure how much help I was but figured I would try. Edit, I am in mass too lol

 

ACD - Id tend to agree with you there. I suppose if it was a real cooling loop it would be a finned line. But then again the power steering resi has a cooling loop and its non-finned. I guess I'm concerned enough to think about it, but its not the end of the world. How hot could that pump really get anyways.

ABS - 1.) I doubted you could remove it without anything else happening to. Would be cool if someone that's done it could chime in.

2.) Agreed the relays would most likely be fine, but the heat sinks directly below them... Is ambient non moving air enough to cool them or do they bank on air moving around in the bay to cool. Could see either way.

3.) I cant see any wire that looks any different then the rest. Like I said the ABS harness might not even have a shielded one in it. I was just trying to verify.

4.) You would think the parts dept could help. Not my local one, your better off guessing on your own. I found a few that are very close to it on Newunitedracetech.com they got tons of good stuff. I believe the plug is made by Lear but it references back to a sumitomo part number so Ill have to call and verify. The good crimp tool is worth it all day long IMO even for one harness job. The amount of time id save crimping compared to soldering would pay near pay for the tool.

5.) I love the copper nickel line so I got 2 coils for the brake lines and to route the ACD. Stuff is crisp. Far as the flares go I guess ill find out when I take the pump down.

Thanks for taking a shot man I was getting discouraged. Where in MA are ya?

 

Exactly I doubt the ACD would get too hot as long. Having the same capacity of fluid or more than stock should be more than fine.
1) I agree
2) Air in the engine bay can be very hot as well, think of on a hot summer day with the engine idling in traffic and you are barely moving. They make it through that they can make it through a relocation.
3)I will try and get a pic of the wire off alldata tomorrow.
4) I use to work in Nashua nh and the chevy parts department could find me terminals no problem. Maybe mitsu is different? We owned the mitsu building next door. Maybe I could call since I know the parts guys and find out.
5)Thumbs up

Lol ur welcome. Can't hurt to try. I am in medford. You? Are you an engineer or something. I am gonna guess so based on ur post.

 

Hah, god no I'm no engineer. Body guy/painter by trade but I work at a hot rod shop doing sheet metal fab. I just like my stuff to function properly. Cant really drive my car to work I get shunned so I primarily tinker with it now. Funny, I bought my car from a kid right outside Nashua. I might try taking a ride to another dealer, there's not to many around. The parts guy at the local one isn't really a big ball of sunshine. Unless you have a part number, might as well go home.