Hello all!

First post here. Picked up an '05 Evo 8 MR 6 speed about a month ago. Car has basically every bolt on plus HKS 272 cams. Stock turbo, Buschur tuned at 19 psi. Perrin manual boost controller. The first night I had the car, the vacuum line running from the driver's side of the head to the bov popped off. Car fell on it's face and needless to say I nearly **** myself. Car went way lean, I limped home (less than a mile) and got the vac line hooked back up. As far as I can tell, that is the only thing that popped off, but the car doesn't seem to run the same since. When I first got the car, it was making 19 lbs and holding strong. After the vacuum line incident, it's spiking to about 15 lbs and dropping off to 12 or so as rpms incrase.. a/r seems to be holding fine at 11.3. It is definitely down on power, and it doesn't pull smooth on boost like it did before.. it kinda surges through boost. Any thoughts? Couple other questions..

The front right tire is noticeably more worn that the other three. I'd say closing in on 1/32". The rest of the tires are good, maybe 3/32" to 1/8". Is that a problem?

ACD switch is non-responsive. The light on "tarmac" stays lit, but I can't change it to snow or gravel. Tarmac stays lit and never flashes or anything.

When I turn the car on and start rolling out, it always makes a funny sound that reminds me of a power steering rack groaning when you've hit max throw (I am no where close to the PS throw limit when it does this) It will make a groan noise for a few seconds (between 1 and 5) and then there's a distinctive solenoid-sounding "click" and it shuts off. Any thoughts? ABS? Generally what happens is I back out, turn the wheel to the left, put it in 1st and start cranking the wheel right and rolling out - it usually does it when I start cranking right and rolling. Not always though, sometimes it does it < 1 min later when I'm cruising straight down the road. Would that have anything to do with the non-responsive ACD? It also usually does it when I pull into my garage as well - the garage floor is slightly elevated from the driveway - as soon as my front wheels hop up, it makes the groan sound for a split second then shuts off.

Thoughts??

Thank you guys!

 

Check for other boost leaks in the system. Are you throwing any codes? The sound you are hearing while turning is probably from the acd pump. It may be dead and prone to failure especially if its seem several winters.

 

Ocassional code due to a high-flow cat, or so I was told. Have never verified the code. I had a boost leak check done before I bought the car, they said it was OK.

 

fill up a spray bottle with some soapy water and with the car running spray every coupler and vacuum connection and look for bubbles. if you have a decent leak you'll get a noticeable bubble or bubbles where the leak is. I had one on a coupler that wasn't clamped down properly and got a bubble like those little bubble wand things we play with as kids. It was the first thing I sprayed and bam! bubble. Hit each connection one at a time. If this method produces no results then you might research more intensive methods of testing for boost leaks. Check youtube there's tons of helpful videos,that's how I saw to do the soapy water method and know what to look for.

 

Would the fact that the vacuum line popped off and made it run lean for a bit cause the ECU to act any differently? Safe mode or something? Would resetting the ECU help? I know this is symptomatic of a boost leak, but like I said, no boost leaks when I had the Mitsu dealer check it out before I bought it. Maybe the bov started leaking? Stock bov.. Thanks for the input. Keep it coming. Need to get this figured out.

 

How would I check for a leaking BOV?

 

Boost leak test. That's how I found out where all my leaks were. Don't forget the throttle body. That thing will leak bad as well.

 

I had my ACD pump replaced with a brand new one at the dealership in the fall and it has been making occasional weird noises like that ever since. I took it back to the dealership but they couldn't reproduce the sound.

 

Am I going to do any damage riding around with a bad ACD pump?

 

Will a boost leak throw off the a/f ratio?

 

The only damage is that the ACD pump may not be repairable if you keep driving it but it shouldn't hurt anything else. So, you would have to get a new pump instead of rebuilding the one that you have. Usually, the pump itself is okay but there is corrosion inside that needs to be cleaned out. If you keep driving it and it can't build pressure, the pump could burn itself out. The last time that I checked, the difference between rebuilding and a new pump was over $1,000.

 

You should also visit this thread.

 

The CEL comes on at times.. does that dump in extra fuel? Would that maybe be why I'm not hitting full boost?

 

When I lost the vac line, it went lean for sure.. would that cause the ECU to go into panic mode and pull some timing/add some extra fuel to keep it from blowing up? Would those changes remain after I got the vac line back on? That would cause me to not make full boost right? Only problem is, I started fiddling around w/ the boost controller. It is just kinda hanging out behind the headlight.. and the adjustment screw has very little resistance.. in my infinite wisdom I thought maybe it got banged around and turned the screw a bit, and that was why it wasn't making full boost. Going to reset my ECU tonight and see what happens..

 

I used to get a lean code when my EGR vacuum line popped off.