Ready to burn this car
#1
Ready to burn this car
Issue #1
2003 Evo 8 GSR bby 91xxx miles ( I bought it with 58K 3 years ago )
Well not really but, I was recently having problems with the trans. I was experiencing a grinding going into 5th on the highway, it even had issues grinding going into 3rd if I got deep into second gear. Then it got to a point where I was hearing a clicking noise coming from the transmission in 3rd gear while cruising around doing 35 mph.
This car is not my daily so I decided to take the transmission out and send it to Shepherd for the stage 1 street strip upgrade. I got the trans back and installed it along with, resurfaced oem flywheel / and exedy stage 1 pressure plate / disc and the provided exedy tob. I chose this clutch due to the recommendation of it by Trevor at Shepherd. I got amsoil synthetic manual transmission & transaxle gear lube 75w90 for the trans and amsoil severe gear 75w90 synthetic extreme pressure lube for the center differential. I got the entire car back together and start it up for the first time in almost 2 months, I let it warm up and tried to put it in first gear and it was just not happening. I somewhat forcefully got it into 1st and the car lunged forward and stalled. I also was getting a vibrating clutch pedal, I jacked the car back up and checked through the inspection hole to ensure that the tob was securely seated in the waveloc / clip that is seated on the pressure plate and all looked well. I gave it a bit of throttle at the throttle body and heard what sounded like an oscilating noise coming from inside the bell housing. So at this point I cant get the car in gear and it even feels notchy when I go through the gears when the engine is off. I contacted Trevor at Shepherd and he gave me a e mail which included a diagnostic test to perform with the car on 4 jack stands, I performed the test this evening and it didn't seem to solve my issues, no wheels were spinning or moving with the clutch pedal pressed or depressed. I looked at the clutch pedal adjustment and it looks as though it is maxed out, probably due to the act clutch that the previous owner / shop installed. I guess it looks like I will be removing the transmission on the floor in my garage once again. Other issues I discovered while running the car this evening...
Issue # 2
For some reason I decided to turn on the headlights while the car was in the air, once I did so the car almost stumbled to a stall. Also the headlights would go out and not turn on while the car was running and if they did it made the car want to stumble to almost stall. A lot of the lights on the instrument cluster came on including the battery light. Is this a sign of the factory alternator on its way out?
Also the oil light comes on once the car is warmed up, the last time I drove it the light would come on unless I was into the gas. I already replaced the oil pressure sensor on the back of the block with a non oem Mitsu unit and the problem is still there, I was considering using a thicker oil next time around to remedy the oil light problem.
Thanks for any advice in advance!
2003 Evo 8 GSR bby 91xxx miles ( I bought it with 58K 3 years ago )
Well not really but, I was recently having problems with the trans. I was experiencing a grinding going into 5th on the highway, it even had issues grinding going into 3rd if I got deep into second gear. Then it got to a point where I was hearing a clicking noise coming from the transmission in 3rd gear while cruising around doing 35 mph.
This car is not my daily so I decided to take the transmission out and send it to Shepherd for the stage 1 street strip upgrade. I got the trans back and installed it along with, resurfaced oem flywheel / and exedy stage 1 pressure plate / disc and the provided exedy tob. I chose this clutch due to the recommendation of it by Trevor at Shepherd. I got amsoil synthetic manual transmission & transaxle gear lube 75w90 for the trans and amsoil severe gear 75w90 synthetic extreme pressure lube for the center differential. I got the entire car back together and start it up for the first time in almost 2 months, I let it warm up and tried to put it in first gear and it was just not happening. I somewhat forcefully got it into 1st and the car lunged forward and stalled. I also was getting a vibrating clutch pedal, I jacked the car back up and checked through the inspection hole to ensure that the tob was securely seated in the waveloc / clip that is seated on the pressure plate and all looked well. I gave it a bit of throttle at the throttle body and heard what sounded like an oscilating noise coming from inside the bell housing. So at this point I cant get the car in gear and it even feels notchy when I go through the gears when the engine is off. I contacted Trevor at Shepherd and he gave me a e mail which included a diagnostic test to perform with the car on 4 jack stands, I performed the test this evening and it didn't seem to solve my issues, no wheels were spinning or moving with the clutch pedal pressed or depressed. I looked at the clutch pedal adjustment and it looks as though it is maxed out, probably due to the act clutch that the previous owner / shop installed. I guess it looks like I will be removing the transmission on the floor in my garage once again. Other issues I discovered while running the car this evening...
Issue # 2
For some reason I decided to turn on the headlights while the car was in the air, once I did so the car almost stumbled to a stall. Also the headlights would go out and not turn on while the car was running and if they did it made the car want to stumble to almost stall. A lot of the lights on the instrument cluster came on including the battery light. Is this a sign of the factory alternator on its way out?
Also the oil light comes on once the car is warmed up, the last time I drove it the light would come on unless I was into the gas. I already replaced the oil pressure sensor on the back of the block with a non oem Mitsu unit and the problem is still there, I was considering using a thicker oil next time around to remedy the oil light problem.
Thanks for any advice in advance!
#2
Evolved Member
iTrader: (21)
Did you do all the work? Sounds like an improperly installed / adjusted clutch for issue #1
Issue #2 is definitely electrical. Stock headlights? Check the grounds and take the alternator and have it tested. Car should be right around 13.7-14.1 volts when running
oil light should NEVER come on unless the oil level is dangerously low
Issue #2 is definitely electrical. Stock headlights? Check the grounds and take the alternator and have it tested. Car should be right around 13.7-14.1 volts when running
oil light should NEVER come on unless the oil level is dangerously low
#6
Did you do all the work? Sounds like an improperly installed / adjusted clutch for issue #1
Issue #2 is definitely electrical. Stock headlights? Check the grounds and take the alternator and have it tested. Car should be right around 13.7-14.1 volts when running
oil light should NEVER come on unless the oil level is dangerously low
Issue #2 is definitely electrical. Stock headlights? Check the grounds and take the alternator and have it tested. Car should be right around 13.7-14.1 volts when running
oil light should NEVER come on unless the oil level is dangerously low
It looks like the trans is coming out just to double check and look for a mistake.
Stock headlights, im definitely going to take the time to pull the alternator while everything else is apart.
The oil dipstick reads full, i just have to replace the sensor again i guess.
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#13
Evolved Member
iTrader: (21)
back it off and check if the clutch is dragging by having the car in the air and seeing if the wheels rotate with the car in gear, the clutch in, and giving it gas
as always, use jackstands, be smart, make sure the car isn't going anywhere, etc., etc. im not responsible for the car dropping off and taking off through the garage lol
as always, use jackstands, be smart, make sure the car isn't going anywhere, etc., etc. im not responsible for the car dropping off and taking off through the garage lol