Very mature.

 

Definitely backwards clutch disk. You aren't the first or the last to do that. I would buy a new disk that one will be warp and will fail.

 

Well the car is %100 back together and the clutch works fine aside from having a little bit of play at the beginning of the pedal and it grabs a little bit low.

The second issue as i described before, after i jump start it and let it run and idle once i turn the lights on oem hid lights on the car wants to shutter to a stall but barely manages to stay running.
I took the battery out and am taking it to get tested tomorrow...
Once the car starts having the electric issues, even if the headlight switch is on the hids will be off. Even the lights on the instrument cluster wont light up. I tried to spray the washer squirters and the cars electrical system basically didnt have the power to do so....

 

When you are tightening the pressure plate bolts and it feels like you are forcing the pressure plate and flywheel together then the disc is backwards. If it goes together without effort then it is facing the right way.

 

 

good to hear. as demon stated. a multimeter set to dc should be higher than 12v at idle. check your main ground as you have just had your trans out. a simple method is jumper cables from neg post to engine ground as well as chassis.

 

Just got a new alternator last night. I will be installing it after work today and report back on the results...

 

What a nightmare! By no means ever buy an autozone alternator. It looked identical to the oem alternator but when i went to install it the thing just would not fit. Basically it was an evo 9 alternator instead of an 8, but they share the same part number in their system.
Now my only option is to get the oem alternator rebuilt or get a used one off of ebay......

 

wow so the 8 and 9 alternator are not the same? I've never had to mess with that...

 

Yeah man, i was even looking at pictures on google images and even the mounting bracket on the back left corner of the head looks different. I could get the large bolt through the 2 holes that straddle the mount on the back of the block but once i rolled the alternator up to put the 12mm bolt in, the alternator basically wouldnt reach the bracket and the bolt hole was off by about 1/4 inch.

So now after work i am taking the oem alternator to be rebuilt...

 

funny i just got one at advance for my 8 and it works fine.

 

Aftermarket ones can be hit or miss; unfortunately brand doesn't really mean one thing or the other either, as they are all bought in batches and you can buy an auto zone one in February and another in November and have them come from two totally different sources. Reliability sways with that just as much as fitment.

Why not just get an OEM one? They aren't much money, like $250 or less. Even reman Densos are usually $300+. As many of the budget $100 ones as I've thrown away for people, I personally wouldn't cut corners knowing its a gamble if you are going to have to replace it again shortly.

Also, 8 and 9 alternators are the same; it is just the accessory brackets that are different. No telling what they gave you, those cases are parts-binned?

 

I tried an aftermarket alt in my Subaru. it whined like a supercharger for a year or two until it crapped out on me costing $120 for a tow. No more major non-OEM parts for me!

 

Man for the most part if it wasn't for bad luck you would have none at all.

Glad you got your clutch issue figured out! At least you are making headway! Learning this way sucks but it will stick with you forever.

 

I just called advance and they said they could have it here by tomorrow.
The alternator repair shop i brought it to yesterday called me and told me that it is beyond repair because the "stater" inside of it is completely destroyed.
I am in a position where i have to have the car mobile because i need it out of the garage by Tuesday because i sold the house its in. What great timing. Hahaha