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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 07:22 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by superbovine
Aftermarket ones can be hit or miss; unfortunately brand doesn't really mean one thing or the other either, as they are all bought in batches and you can buy an auto zone one in February and another in November and have them come from two totally different sources. Reliability sways with that just as much as fitment.

Why not just get an OEM one? They aren't much money, like $250 or less. Even reman Densos are usually $300+. As many of the budget $100 ones as I've thrown away for people, I personally wouldn't cut corners knowing its a gamble if you are going to have to replace it again shortly.

Also, 8 and 9 alternators are the same; it is just the accessory brackets that are different. No telling what they gave you, those cases are parts-binned?
Exactly, the accessory bracket that bolts up to the mount behind the left upper corner of the valve cover just would not reach by roughly 1/4 inch.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 07:25 AM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by Cal City Evo
Man for the most part if it wasn't for bad luck you would have none at all.

Glad you got your clutch issue figured out! At least you are making headway! Learning this way sucks but it will stick with you forever.
man you are not kidding! Hahaha
the clutch feels good now, no more vibrations at all. Although there is a little bit of slop at the top of the pedal. I think i may have to move the adjustment back out on the pedal under the dash.
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 02:03 PM
  #78  
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Ohh the drama. I got the alternator back from the repair shop and it came out MINT, passed all the tests as well on the mans machine. I was gonna take a pic of it before i put it in but i was in a huge rush.
Everything is back together and running great, i let the car warm up for 30 mins then i revved the gas a bit and ohh dear lord....
..
..
.I have noise coming from the bottom end...
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 02:06 PM
  #79  
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OMG. sounds about exactly like my winter is going. alternator failure and everything minus wiped out valvetrain. maybe you'll be able to salvage your crank. blessing for me though it got me motivated to build a stroker. keep it posted
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 09:35 PM
  #80  
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****...beep...
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Old Dec 14, 2014 | 12:12 PM
  #81  
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Ill definitely keep you all posted about the bottom end.
My question is..... if the lower end is indeed messed up i dont understand why i don't have any cels on the instrument cluster. I figured i would have a code for knock atleast. I mean this engine sounds like a rod is gonna come thru the block. Another thing that had me confused in which i mentioned briefly earlier is that the oil light would come on sparaticly, for example i would start the car and no engine oil light then it would get warmed up and thin out the oil and the light would then be on.
When i would drive the car the oil light would only be on at a stop light. Maybe the oil pump bit the dust and that's the reason why the bottom end is in the shape its in right now??
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Old Dec 14, 2014 | 07:44 PM
  #82  
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low oil pressure...wouldn't doubt pump failed...
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 05:03 AM
  #83  
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that is the symptom for bottom end bearings. oil is hemorrhaging out of the bearings before it is getting to the sender. and BANG BANG BANG. Sorry dude but thats exactly what mine did. no lights is typical. knock sensor is calibrated to pick up noise in a different bandwidth.
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 06:16 AM
  #84  
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Been there, done that. Sucks.
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 06:48 AM
  #85  
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When you start the car after it sat for a while the gold flakes in your oil pan are all settled at the bottom. After it warms up the flakes are sucked up from the bottom by the oil pump and are now all stuck on the screen filter of the oil pump pick up and clogging it up causing your oil light to come on.
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 07:03 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by apoopoo999
When you start the car after it sat for a while the gold flakes in your oil pan are all settled at the bottom. After it warms up the flakes are sucked up from the bottom by the oil pump and are now all stuck on the screen filter of the oil pump pick up and clogging it up causing your oil light to come on.
I have never heard of gold flakes in oil before...
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Ude Lose
I have never heard of gold flakes in oil before...
If you hear rod knock there is definitely going to be gold flakes in your oil pan.
My 4g63 was just ticking and had the same symptoms as you. Low oil pressure at warm up and the oil pressure would drop at stops. My oil light never came on but I was watching my oil pressure gauge, I found flakes in the oil pan. My Subaru had a rod banging and there was a gold mine in my oil.

I forgot to add an explanation about the gold flakes, they are shavings from your rod and crank bearings being worn prematurely from low oil pressure.

Last edited by apoopoo999; Dec 15, 2014 at 08:41 AM.
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 09:10 AM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by Ude Lose
I have never heard of gold flakes in oil before...
Forget E85, he runs his car on Goldschläger
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Old Dec 18, 2014 | 05:10 AM
  #89  
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Well i knew i shouldn't have drove it but i had to move it from my old place to my new place. It was a 10 mile drive and i thought i could make it, about 7 miles later i had to pull off into a parking lot after hearing a loud metallic sound which made people turn around and look. I pulled into the parking lot and shut it off immediately. Lucky for me i saw a flat bed passing and flagged him down. Towed the car home and that's it. Now i have to pull the engine and determine whether its more cost effective to rebuild the bottom end at home or have my machinist do it or go for a buschur short block....
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Old Dec 18, 2014 | 05:41 AM
  #90  
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damn I'm sorry to hear man that sux ***...take your time and do it right one time and get it over with...
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