Ready to burn this car
Evolved Member
iTrader: (33)
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 5,313
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From: Raleigh, Transplanted from Toronto, Canada
Well i knew i shouldn't have drove it but i had to move it from my old place to my new place. It was a 10 mile drive and i thought i could make it, about 7 miles later i had to pull off into a parking lot after hearing a loud metallic sound which made people turn around and look. I pulled into the parking lot and shut it off immediately. Lucky for me i saw a flat bed passing and flagged him down. Towed the car home and that's it. Now i have to pull the engine and determine whether its more cost effective to rebuild the bottom end at home or have my machinist do it or go for a buschur short block....
Anyone who owns a Evo as their primary means of transportation and has modified beyond stock is rolling the dice.
wow are evos this bad? i sold my srt4 and got this car because ive always wanted an evo but i thought they were strong and reliable...i have had the evo for almost a year now and have pulled out the tranny 3 times...first 2 times was necessary but this last time was because i didnt spend the money and do things right the first time...are evos really this bad when modified? mines is a daily driver and should be making somewhere around 340 - 350 ish i believe...
smurfs right. cranks toast now. i did the same frickin thing 2 weeks ago. i am building my stroker right now and i would urge you to do it your self . you will save thousands. i got a used crank and forged rods with new pistons for under a grand. my machinist and i are on each others christmas card list so that won't be bad and new clutch disc, throwout bearing head gasket etc. i bet i spend less than 2k. get a pen and some paper . you need to start your christmas list now.
Evolving Member
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Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Driving ten under in the passing lane, right turn signal on at all times.
smurfs right. cranks toast now. i did the same frickin thing 2 weeks ago. i am building my stroker right now and i would urge you to do it your self . you will save thousands. i got a used crank and forged rods with new pistons for under a grand. my machinist and i are on each others christmas card list so that won't be bad and new clutch disc, throwout bearing head gasket etc. i bet i spend less than 2k. get a pen and some paper . you need to start your christmas list now.
Yeah it sounds like it makes sense to do it myself.
Im pretty sure right now my list would look as follows.
Pistons
Rods
Crank
Oil pump and gasket
Machine work / possible stroker upgrade to cylinders
New head gasket and other gaskets
Timing belt/ serpentine belt and all other misc stuff.
[QUOTE=Ude Lose;11361973]What rods and pistons did you go with?
Yeah it sounds like it makes sense to do it myself.
Im pretty sure right now my list would look as follows.
Pistons
Rods
Crank
Oil pump and gasket
Machine work / possible stroker upgrade to cylinders
New head gasket and other gaskets
Timing belt/ serpentine belt and all other misc stuff.[/QUOT
if there was shavings i'd inspect and if possible replace oil cooler...
Yeah it sounds like it makes sense to do it myself.
Im pretty sure right now my list would look as follows.
Pistons
Rods
Crank
Oil pump and gasket
Machine work / possible stroker upgrade to cylinders
New head gasket and other gaskets
Timing belt/ serpentine belt and all other misc stuff.[/QUOT
if there was shavings i'd inspect and if possible replace oil cooler...
eagle rods, wiseco pistons, stock 100mm crank. cometic hg just did my head and timing belt. this whole thing started for me with a bad alternator and tbelt tensioner. so list is.
pistons
rods
crank
hg
bearings
cover gasket
water pump gasket
rear main seal
i am going to elimitate balance shafts so bearings plug stub shaft
serp belt to eliminate a/c
flush cooler
i will also check oil pump clearances
while im in there i found i have a comp stg 2 clutch that the disc is shot in but held great. so im doing that as well as 3 bar map might go sd.
my front cover housing is pretty clean and other than all of the chunks going thru my motor is in quite good shape. i wish i had pulled over the minute my oil light flashed and tapping started. would have been a lot cheaper. i am only looking for 400/400 and i already have injectors 272's and some kind of gt30
pistons
rods
crank
hg
bearings
cover gasket
water pump gasket
rear main seal
i am going to elimitate balance shafts so bearings plug stub shaft
serp belt to eliminate a/c
flush cooler
i will also check oil pump clearances
while im in there i found i have a comp stg 2 clutch that the disc is shot in but held great. so im doing that as well as 3 bar map might go sd.
my front cover housing is pretty clean and other than all of the chunks going thru my motor is in quite good shape. i wish i had pulled over the minute my oil light flashed and tapping started. would have been a lot cheaper. i am only looking for 400/400 and i already have injectors 272's and some kind of gt30
Do it right dont reuse anything oil touched if your oil had anything besides liquid in it. Look on here at the guy who went thru a few motors for reusing the same oil cooler..or guys fin up bearrings due to pretty powder coated valve covers
I haven't heard that one before...did powder coating get inside the vc and come off when installed or something?
yes. the media hides then gets rinsed loose and acts like liquid sand paper. jc is right to eliminate as much reused items as possible but it's hard to just source a head at will. its not really like rebuilding a small block chevy where a complete oil pump is 30 bucks either. good sterile assembly is as important in these motors as any other.
That happened to me. I bought a valve cover that was sand blasted and there was probably media still left in the baffles because I toasted my bottom end shortly after installing it. You don't need to buy a new head, just strip it down and have it hot tanked






