And another evo hit....
It'll get fixed just fine. A friend of mine works at an infinti dealership, and their body shop was replacing everything on a G37 from the C pillar back. All the unibody panels came from infinti, and they used the frame machine as a "jig" to get everything lined up, then spot welded and glued everything up just like factory. It was pretty cool. As long as the body shop is competent and has the right equipment, you won't know the car was broken other than that you just know...lol
Also, no matter which insurance company you go with, it is ALWAYS your option to let the money situation be handled between the body shop and the insurance, or to have the check come to you and go from there. AND even if you have the check come to you, the body shop can still file for supplements and get additional money if needed if they find more damage not on the estimate.
Also, no matter which insurance company you go with, it is ALWAYS your option to let the money situation be handled between the body shop and the insurance, or to have the check come to you and go from there. AND even if you have the check come to you, the body shop can still file for supplements and get additional money if needed if they find more damage not on the estimate.
It'll get fixed just fine. A friend of mine works at an infinti dealership, and their body shop was replacing everything on a G37 from the C pillar back. All the unibody panels came from infinti, and they used the frame machine as a "jig" to get everything lined up, then spot welded and glued everything up just like factory. It was pretty cool. As long as the body shop is competent and has the right equipment, you won't know the car was broken other than that you just know...lol
Regarding the money, the shop owner is going to be dealing with State Farm (the other guy's insurance). He has already told me he will be giving me the money from what insurance gives "him", so I can buy the JDM rear as well as whatever money he gets for the chipped tail light. Is this the right way to do it?
I'm also nervous that State Farm is going to try to give me aftermarket part money instead of OEM.
Last edited by Kreeker; Mar 31, 2016 at 08:08 AM.
As long as you trust the shop owner, that's fine. It does make the process for getting supplements easier by have the shop owner deal with the insurance as opposed to you getting the estimate, submitting it, getting a check, and going from there.
That looks like a frame table...lol. I wouldn't be too concerned. If they don't get it straight, it will become immediately apparent when body panels don't line up, and/or you can see the gaps between the panels aren't right. Modern cars have to be straight, or the panel gaps will show that they're not.
That looks like a frame table...lol. I wouldn't be too concerned. If they don't get it straight, it will become immediately apparent when body panels don't line up, and/or you can see the gaps between the panels aren't right. Modern cars have to be straight, or the panel gaps will show that they're not.
probably will end up using every penny if you get it aligned right.
on my old black evo, I got rear ended very slightly and the rear bumper never aligned correctly. make sure you get it on the fanciest digital frame line up etc etc etc., otherwise it won't be lined up perfectly.
on my old black evo, I got rear ended very slightly and the rear bumper never aligned correctly. make sure you get it on the fanciest digital frame line up etc etc etc., otherwise it won't be lined up perfectly.
Was wondering how long it would take for someone to say this.
Dear God! I just had my driver side 1/4 and tail light replaced, bumper massaged out, and painted and think it came out to a little over $3,000.
Unless there's stuctural damage behind the bumper/quarter/trunk which I did not have, that estimate is absurd. Take the check and find a REPUTABLE body shop, you may be able to end up with some $$ in your pocket afterwards.
Also, since you need a new bumper anyways, definitely get a JDM rear out of the deal.
Dear God! I just had my driver side 1/4 and tail light replaced, bumper massaged out, and painted and think it came out to a little over $3,000.
Unless there's stuctural damage behind the bumper/quarter/trunk which I did not have, that estimate is absurd. Take the check and find a REPUTABLE body shop, you may be able to end up with some $$ in your pocket afterwards.
Also, since you need a new bumper anyways, definitely get a JDM rear out of the deal.
Was wondering how long it would take for someone to say this.
Dear God! I just had my driver side 1/4 and tail light replaced, bumper massaged out, and painted and think it came out to a little over $3,000.
Unless there's stuctural damage behind the bumper/quarter/trunk which I did not have, that estimate is absurd. Take the check and find a REPUTABLE body shop, you may be able to end up with some $$ in your pocket afterwards.
Also, since you need a new bumper anyways, definitely get a JDM rear out of the deal.
Dear God! I just had my driver side 1/4 and tail light replaced, bumper massaged out, and painted and think it came out to a little over $3,000.
Unless there's stuctural damage behind the bumper/quarter/trunk which I did not have, that estimate is absurd. Take the check and find a REPUTABLE body shop, you may be able to end up with some $$ in your pocket afterwards.
Also, since you need a new bumper anyways, definitely get a JDM rear out of the deal.
Unfortunately, the accident didn't look that bad but the floor of the trunk was actually pushed in so the unibody is going to have to be repaired. I'm reading this is going to result in frame damage being listed on the carfax, therefore diminishing the value of my mint car... I'm also reading that I should go after money for the diminished value of the car caused by the negligence of the other driver.
Now I want to scream.
I really would love to know how fast this woman was going when she hit me.. When the accident happened I kind of blacked out for 1 second, so I really don't know how bad the hit was.
And yes I will be getting a JDM rear. It's going to work out to about $100 more than the USDM bumper.
Are there any other things I demand them pay for?
Like an alignment even it doesn't require it? Inspection by an Evo shop? Something else?
Last edited by Kreeker; Apr 13, 2016 at 07:12 PM.
I should make it clear that this estimate came from State Farm (the woman's insurance), not the body shop. The car is at a shop that my Mom and many people trust, and the owner has been handling everything with the insurance company. Am I making a mistake?
Unfortunately, the accident didn't look that bad but the floor of the trunk was actually pushed in so the unibody is going to have to be repaired. I'm reading this is going to result in frame damage being listed on the carfax, therefore diminishing the value of my mint car... I'm also reading that I should go after money for the diminished value of the car caused by the negligence of the other driver.
Now I want to scream.
I really would love to know how fast this woman was going when she hit me.. When the accident happened I kind of blacked out for 1 second, so I really don't know how bad the hit was.
And yes I will be getting a JDM rear. It's going to work out to about $100 more than the USDM bumper.
Are there any other things I demand them pay for?
Like an alignment even it doesn't require it? Inspection by an Evo shop? Something else?
Unfortunately, the accident didn't look that bad but the floor of the trunk was actually pushed in so the unibody is going to have to be repaired. I'm reading this is going to result in frame damage being listed on the carfax, therefore diminishing the value of my mint car... I'm also reading that I should go after money for the diminished value of the car caused by the negligence of the other driver.
Now I want to scream.
I really would love to know how fast this woman was going when she hit me.. When the accident happened I kind of blacked out for 1 second, so I really don't know how bad the hit was.
And yes I will be getting a JDM rear. It's going to work out to about $100 more than the USDM bumper.
Are there any other things I demand them pay for?
Like an alignment even it doesn't require it? Inspection by an Evo shop? Something else?
And yes, go after the other party's insurance for diminished value.
How much do you guys think the car legitimately lost in value?
I would say the car was "Very Good" under KBB standards and I think the accident may bring it to a "Fair" rating. Although I'm not sure how repaired frame damage is considered vs frame damage which was never repaired.
Based on KBB, the value went from $23,905 to $21,164. But even ~$3,000 seems too low. I think the car is worth a lot more.
I talked to State Farm's department which handles diminished value claims and the woman basically said I need to find records of similar evos being sold without damage and then records of similar evos being sold with damage to prove the car lost value. I have no idea how I would even go about doing that. I then asked if I have it appraised by a dealer and have them itemize how much less the car is worth with the damage, and she basically said no that would not work. But now reading this thread, that seems to be the way to do it...
Anyone know any good resources for this kind of stuff? There doesn't seem to be that much information on how to go about it, because I imagine most people don't even think to do it...
What really sucks is I was going to install some more parts and get a tune this summer, and now I don't know if I want to spend any money on it until I'm positive it drives correctly still.
Last edited by Kreeker; Apr 14, 2016 at 01:09 PM.
How much do you guys think the car legitimately lost in value?
I would say the car was "Very Good" under KBB standards and I think the accident may bring it to a "Fair" rating. Although I'm not sure how repaired frame damage is considered vs frame damage which was never repaired.
Based on KBB, the value went from $23,905 to $21,164. But even ~$3,000 seems too low. I think the car is worth a lot more.
I talked to State Farm's department which handles diminished value claims and the woman basically said I need to find records of similar evos being sold without damage and then records of similar evos being sold with damage to prove the car lost value. I have no idea how I would even go about doing that. I then asked if I have it appraised by a dealer and have them itemize how much less the car is worth with the damage, and she basically said no that would not work. But now reading this thread, that seems to be the way to do it...
Anyone know any good resources for this kind of stuff? There doesn't seem to be that much information on how to go about it, because I imagine most people don't even think to do it...
What really sucks is I was going to install some more parts and get a tune this summer, and now I don't know if I want to spend any money on it until I'm positive it drives correctly still.
I would say the car was "Very Good" under KBB standards and I think the accident may bring it to a "Fair" rating. Although I'm not sure how repaired frame damage is considered vs frame damage which was never repaired.
Based on KBB, the value went from $23,905 to $21,164. But even ~$3,000 seems too low. I think the car is worth a lot more.
I talked to State Farm's department which handles diminished value claims and the woman basically said I need to find records of similar evos being sold without damage and then records of similar evos being sold with damage to prove the car lost value. I have no idea how I would even go about doing that. I then asked if I have it appraised by a dealer and have them itemize how much less the car is worth with the damage, and she basically said no that would not work. But now reading this thread, that seems to be the way to do it...
Anyone know any good resources for this kind of stuff? There doesn't seem to be that much information on how to go about it, because I imagine most people don't even think to do it...
What really sucks is I was going to install some more parts and get a tune this summer, and now I don't know if I want to spend any money on it until I'm positive it drives correctly still.
I would just a get a lawyer at this point. a good lawyer will take car of all of this for you, and even though you pay them a fee, they will likely make up for it by recovering more money than you would have.
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