edsct9a

iTrader: (5)

Last week I decided to replace my TB seals since they were leaking bad and since then my car has been stuttering at WOT. I noticed in my logs that load would suddenly drop so I changed the 2 byte to 1.3 and my load is logging higher then it was before the seal replacement. I slightly lowered my MBC and increased the fuel cut but still stuttering. I changed the plugs with Denso ikh22 but didn't change the gap since I thought you weren't suppose to on iridiums but still didn't help. I started doing a boost leak test and found my bov was leaking pretty bad, put the stocker back on and fixed that. Then found 2 more leaks one at the TB coupler and one where both upper pipes meet.

I'm only able to get 10-15psi on the test and slowly starts to drop.
How fast is it suppose to drop?
Why can't I go more then 15psi? I did turn the crank a few times.
I'm testing at the turbo inlet.

Biggiesacks

So your saying during your boost test, your system will not hold more then 15psi? If that is the case you have a major leak somewhere. What you want to do is keep it pressurized and then listen / use soapy water to find the leaks. So what im saying is don't let it drop, keep it a few psi above your intended max boost.

edsct9a

iTrader: (5)

I've been trying but I have a small compressor and keeps kicking on. I am not sure what to do about the MBC. Some say they don't mess with it others say the cap the lines. What do I do with it?

Biggiesacks

well before you worry about the boost controller, you need to get your system to hold boost during your boost leak test. Its going to lose a little pressure from within the engine, but you should be able to at least hit your target psi and hold it there. Again during your test you want to shoot for at least a few PSI above the boost level you want to run. Otherwise boost control isnt going to work right anyway.

edsct9a

iTrader: (5)

So I capped off the lines coming off the waste gate and this time I was able to get past 15psi. Turned the crankshaft until I could get more boost and finally was able to get to 25psi. Found a few more leaks and after that the pressure would slowly drop. Now I'm getting air out the valve cover ports but the drop is slow so I'm not to worried about it. Drove the car and wasn't boosting now :/ took a look and saw the actuator rod off the flapper arm.tried to slip it back on but the rod sits lower then where the arm sits after I pushed it all the way down. How do I put this back on? The engine is hot right now so I'm letting it cool down since I burned my hand already trying to get it on.

Biggiesacks

it sounds like you are making good progress. I actually had an OEM Wastegate fail on me. The diaphram inside had ruptured and it wasn't working properly. I would advise you to test the wastegate actuator to make sure it is working properly. I would use between 15-20psi on the wastegate actuator to make sure its not leaking and the rod is moving properly. At the same time it will extend the rod and allow you to snap it back over the wastegate flapper lever.

edsct9a

iTrader: (5)

Kinda figured that's what I had to do. Hopefully it's fine but not sure how that cotter pin/clip fell off. Ill go to the hardware store and pick up another while it cools down. Am I applying pressure the same way as a boost leak test through the turbo inlet?

Biggiesacks

No apply pressure directly to the wastegate actuator, but keep it between 15-20 psi. I think stock wg actuator spring is like 14.7 psi so it should move in that pressure range.

roni4g63

iTrader: (1)

no, to apply pressure on the actuator diaphragm you need to pressurize it from the nipple on the wg itself.

Biggiesacks

This is what i meant, thanks roni for clarifying

edsct9a

iTrader: (5)

Thanks guys. I was able to pull the rod into place and then tested it and it does move as it should. Drove the car around and the stuttering is a lot less now at WOT. The AFRs are going richer then 11.5 so I think it's just breaking up. I'll do a run tomorrow and adjust the AFRs to see if that clears it up.

edsct9a

iTrader: (5)

So I adjusted my AFRs to 12 and still had the stutter but nothing noticeable in the logs. Swapped back to the stock ignition and all better. So I'm pretty sure one of the Honda cop is bad.