No start after new timing belt.
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
No start after new timing belt.
I recently picked up a 05 evo 8 last week for pretty cheap because the previous owner thought it had rod knock. So I pick it up and change oil which was way over due and I did not find any metal of any kind in the oil or filter that would make me think it had spun a rod or crank bearing? I pulled the lifters and cleaned/bled per instructions and reinstalled thinking maybe one was all clogged up from that nasty oil but nothing changed it still had this weird knock. I did a compression test and leak down test and it is right where it should be so i dug a little deeper and took the timing cover off and I noticed the tensioner pulley was upside down unlike all the stuff I have read which say it should be the opposite with the two holes on bottom and after messing with it a few minutes realized that with it in the orientation the tension against it would push the tensioner arm off the tensioner and slap against the case causing the noise we kept hearing so I pulled it all apart and replaced the belt, pulley and tensioner. I reset timing and double checked multiple times after spinning the motor by hand about 30 times. So I put plugs back in and the valve cover on with a few bolts and cranked the car and it will not start. It will sort of back fire a little and then nothing. You can smell raw fuel and the plugs get soaked quickly. I checked spark and changed plugs and the spark is great with both sets of plugs. I'm totally stumped it's like the injectors are stuck open flooding it or the time is off. It has no codes and the scanner says it is advanced 5 degrees while cranking. Any idea guys Is greatly appreciated it is driving me crazy thanks.
#3
Newbie
Thread Starter
I put them in the same place as they came off I'm pretty sure. The drivers side coil pack is for 1 and 4 and the passenger side coil pack is for 2 and 3 right? Is there any kind of cam sensor timing that could be 180° out of time?
#4
Evolved Member
Coils on 2 &4 with 4 feeding one and 2 feeding three. A guy writing here the other day with the same problem had them messed up.
#7
Newbie
Thread Starter
Dang cam position sensor got leaned on or hit with something and it was cracked on the underside. I put a new one in and it fired right up. But the dang knocking noise is still there. Guess the pan comes off today. If it's not a bearing then I'm lost. Can s lifter collapse and not prime back up again? The sound seems like it's right around the cylinder one valves but from underneath the car the sound seems like it's coming from the pan. It's intermittent also it isn't a consistent noise which also has Me stumped
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#8
The crank sensor and cam sensor are used for the basic engine timing. Any issue with non start or backfiring and struggling to start usually point towards they sensors. As for the knock I'd get the sump off and plugs out. Get a bore scope down each bore to look for any damage and inspect the mains and big ends. Also check it for crankwalk won't be the first time I've seen it on later models.
#9
Newbie
Thread Starter
I did a visual with a bore scope and didn't see any sign of valve to piston contact but the #1 piston had a weird gold patch on top almost like carbon buildup had chipped off and exposed the gold top of the piston in a small area?. Oil sump correct?
#10
Forgetting yous call it an oil pan. I'm new to the site and the American terminology when it comes to certain things. Yeh pull the oil pan off and look for blueing on the big ends, con rods and crank that will indicate ur issue. If it is any of the above your looking at a bottom end rebuild and worst case scenario a new block if it's spun a main
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bigstoggie (Oct 7, 2016)
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