It should be standard size if crank is uncut and clean.

Might as well put i beam rods and forged pistons.

Also ring gap has to be right. And also ring end gap placement is crucial.

 

This

Also this. Even if you mess up your first try and spin a rod bearing or rings don't seat right or something. The minor redo you'll have to do will still be less expensive then having paid someone to build it in the first place.

 

Rings rotate on the pistons as they go up and down.
Gap placement makes zero difference.

 

I'm not a pro but my friend is and I've seen him do it...the placement does make a difference...the instructions that come with them even tell you where to face the gap on each ring...

 

Rings do rotate. But it is important to stagger them per the instructions when assembling the engine.

 

FWIW:

I did an OEM rebuild. I put my OEM pistons and rods back in with new rings and bearings. The rings didn't need filing, the gaps where on the big end of spec. Same with bearing clearances (I used plastigauge). So far, I have about 2000mi on it at 350whp on pump and 450whp on E85 up to 7800RPM. The car sees very little daily driving but gets beat up on at the local autox and occasional track days. It has been handling everything I can throw at it.

I checked all measurements, all torque specs, and lubrication on everything. At least twice. I used plenty of oil and plenty of assembly lube. I was probably a bit more **** than I needed to be, but I was taking no chances.

**edit: I followed the factory service manual to a "T". That made it easy, seeing how all my parts were Mitsu, except for the bearings.

 

This guy is just as bad as fake news. Someone is seriously going to damage their engine if he keeps handing out false advice. There is a reason why even service manuals tell you where to line up ring gaps. If it didn't matter OEMs wouldn't bother putting it in there.

 

Have him line up all the gaps on his next build. See what happens

 

high compression maybe

 

Rings definitely do spin.


However, like I said, their orientation when being installed is important.

 

So do piston rings line up or not? Half of you say yes while the other are saying no.

 

The general note is: The ring gaps must be offset per the manufactures instructions, but they will spin while in service, hopefully never lining up (freezing) in succession

(thats my understanding, based on what Ive read outside of this discussion)

 

If you line up the gaps, you will have very little compression. You offset them as everyone in the world will recommend, the odds of them all lining up while moving around is probably about eleventy billion to one. That is why you offset the gaps.
Or, you can try listening to what that one guy says. 😂

 

THIS

If all the ring end gaps are lined up in line or near each other, then you have created a leak from the combustion chamber down in to your crank case.

A: low compression
B: high crankcase pressure
C: Oil consumption
D:all of the above.


Its kinda like saying all piston ring end gaps are the same and don't matter.

 

Understood. Ill look into instruction manuals so I know exactly how to place the rings.