Best oil on stock motor/bolt-on car?
Jun 27, 2018, 04:26 AM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Best oil on stock motor/bolt-on car?
Whats everyone on a stock motor/bolt-on car running for their oil? Any experience running VR1 10w-30 versus a heavier weight oil? For example ive been running rotella 5w/15w-40 but now switched back to VR1 10w-30, just wondering if it will keep the oil pump fed like a heavier weight.
Jun 27, 2018, 06:15 AM
#3
This is a pretty interesting read: https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/
Tests a lot of different oils.
I'm running 10W-30 Amsoil Signature Series.
Tests a lot of different oils.
I'm running 10W-30 Amsoil Signature Series.
Jun 27, 2018, 06:30 AM
#4
I don't think any failures you see will be caused by oil choice. People get way too caught up on oil brand. I would stick with 10w30 or 10w40 max. 5w30 in the colder months since you're in MI. I ran that Rotella for 2 years in my daily driver Evo and the oil analysis looked great.
Jun 27, 2018, 05:23 PM
#5
I can't believe this question is still being asked
Read this: http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf
and pick one of the recommended oils.
John-
Read this: http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf
and pick one of the recommended oils.
John-
Jun 27, 2018, 05:59 PM
#6
I can't believe this question is still being asked
Read this: http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf
and pick one of the recommended oils.
John-
Read this: http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf
and pick one of the recommended oils.
John-
The author could have written a few things more professionally, but the points were made
Joe
Jun 27, 2018, 07:25 PM
#7
I can't believe this question is still being asked
Read this: http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf
and pick one of the recommended oils.
John-
Read this: http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf
and pick one of the recommended oils.
John-
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Jun 27, 2018, 07:41 PM
#8
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Best engine lubricant is water. Fill with 8qts, and delete or bypass your oil filter. Because oil filters can't filter water.
Jun 27, 2018, 11:27 PM
#9
Evolving Member
Jun 28, 2018, 06:58 AM
#10
Evolving Member
The best oil available on the market is Redline and Motul, period. Group 5 ester oils are the best of the best and the only oil I have ever used in any of my sports cars. You pay a little more but well worth the investment for me.
Jun 28, 2018, 04:18 PM
#11
Evolved Member
try it and find out..lol
Ok so on a more serious note, I will put this question out there cause type of oil has been done to death.
So I used a 10/40 oil and change it once before every track meet, which is about once every two months. Because I change it often would I be better off with a 10/30. My theory is that 10/30 is a thinner oil and therefore circulates quicker and protects the motor more in high speed applications with regular changes. I am thinking the 10/40 would be more suitable for road applications where you leave it for a year.
What do you guys thinking?
Ok so on a more serious note, I will put this question out there cause type of oil has been done to death.
So I used a 10/40 oil and change it once before every track meet, which is about once every two months. Because I change it often would I be better off with a 10/30. My theory is that 10/30 is a thinner oil and therefore circulates quicker and protects the motor more in high speed applications with regular changes. I am thinking the 10/40 would be more suitable for road applications where you leave it for a year.
What do you guys thinking?
Jun 28, 2018, 04:47 PM
#12
Your oil weight has as much to do with bearing clearances, oil relief mods, and crank case pressure, as it does with ambient temp. If you're still on the stock block, stick to 10w30, but switch to a brand you respect. That's what Mitsubishi engineers found to be the most appropriate weight based on the stock versions of bearings clearances, crank case pressures, oil relief etc. Amsoil and Valvoline are both very good brands that carry oils which satisfy FP's turbo list. Like some FP turbos, the OEM turbo charger is a journal bearing turbo so you will see benefits with higher Zddp, which is a good reason to switch from the factory recommended Mobile 1. If you jump up to 20w50 on the stock block your oil pump will not only have to work against heavier loads, but you will see oil pressures greater than 100psi frequently. I know that FP turbo CHRA's don't like seeing too much more than 100 psi of oil pressure(I don't know about stock).
So, yes, this question has been beat to death, but everyone's end goal should really be to run the minimum thickness oil that yields the highest oil film strength on the bearing surfaces. This way you get the least amount of friction losses while maintaining your engine.
So, yes, this question has been beat to death, but everyone's end goal should really be to run the minimum thickness oil that yields the highest oil film strength on the bearing surfaces. This way you get the least amount of friction losses while maintaining your engine.
Jun 28, 2018, 05:14 PM
#13
Evolved Member
Your oil weight has as much to do with bearing clearances, oil relief mods, and crank case pressure, as it does with ambient temp. If you're still on the stock block, stick to 10w30, but switch to a brand you respect. That's what Mitsubishi engineers found to be the most appropriate weight based on the stock versions of bearings clearances, crank case pressures, oil relief etc. Amsoil and Valvoline are both very good brands that carry oils which satisfy FP's turbo list. Like some FP turbos, the OEM turbo charger is a journal bearing turbo so you will see benefits with higher Zddp, which is a good reason to switch from the factory recommended Mobile 1. If you jump up to 20w50 on the stock block your oil pump will not only have to work against heavier loads, but you will see oil pressures greater than 100psi frequently. I know that FP turbo CHRA's don't like seeing too much more than 100 psi of oil pressure(I don't know about stock).
So, yes, this question has been beat to death, but everyone's end goal should really be to run the minimum thickness oil that yields the highest oil film strength on the bearing surfaces. This way you get the least amount of friction losses while maintaining your engine.
So, yes, this question has been beat to death, but everyone's end goal should really be to run the minimum thickness oil that yields the highest oil film strength on the bearing surfaces. This way you get the least amount of friction losses while maintaining your engine.
Jun 28, 2018, 07:58 PM
#14
EvoM Community Team Leader
Use what ever brand synthetic you can afford to change at least every 5k miles or 5 months, and is easily available to you. If thats super shiny oil then do what makes you feel good. Just don't buy expensive oil and have that be a reason you are not keeping up with the correct maintenance schedule because that would defeat the purpose.
Jun 28, 2018, 08:26 PM
#15
Evolved Member
