Whats everyone on a stock motor/bolt-on car running for their oil? Any experience running VR1 10w-30 versus a heavier weight oil? For example ive been running rotella 5w/15w-40 but now switched back to VR1 10w-30, just wondering if it will keep the oil pump fed like a heavier weight.

 

The shop that just tuned me set me up on Redline 15/50. Im in So. Cal & the EvO here sees pretty high ambient temps

 

This is a pretty interesting read: https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/

Tests a lot of different oils.

I'm running 10W-30 Amsoil Signature Series.

 

I don't think any failures you see will be caused by oil choice. People get way too caught up on oil brand. I would stick with 10w30 or 10w40 max. 5w30 in the colder months since you're in MI. I ran that Rotella for 2 years in my daily driver Evo and the oil analysis looked great.

 

I can't believe this question is still being asked

Read this: http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf

and pick one of the recommended oils.

John-

 

Thanks John. I actually have that saved on my desk top right now & referred to it just a few weeks ago when i changed my oil

The author could have written a few things more professionally, but the points were made

Joe

 

 

Best engine lubricant is water. Fill with 8qts, and delete or bypass your oil filter. Because oil filters can't filter water.

 

This can't be serious...

 

The best oil available on the market is Redline and Motul, period. Group 5 ester oils are the best of the best and the only oil I have ever used in any of my sports cars. You pay a little more but well worth the investment for me.

 

try it and find out..lol

Ok so on a more serious note, I will put this question out there cause type of oil has been done to death.

So I used a 10/40 oil and change it once before every track meet, which is about once every two months. Because I change it often would I be better off with a 10/30. My theory is that 10/30 is a thinner oil and therefore circulates quicker and protects the motor more in high speed applications with regular changes. I am thinking the 10/40 would be more suitable for road applications where you leave it for a year.

What do you guys thinking?

 

Your oil weight has as much to do with bearing clearances, oil relief mods, and crank case pressure, as it does with ambient temp. If you're still on the stock block, stick to 10w30, but switch to a brand you respect. That's what Mitsubishi engineers found to be the most appropriate weight based on the stock versions of bearings clearances, crank case pressures, oil relief etc. Amsoil and Valvoline are both very good brands that carry oils which satisfy FP's turbo list. Like some FP turbos, the OEM turbo charger is a journal bearing turbo so you will see benefits with higher Zddp, which is a good reason to switch from the factory recommended Mobile 1. If you jump up to 20w50 on the stock block your oil pump will not only have to work against heavier loads, but you will see oil pressures greater than 100psi frequently. I know that FP turbo CHRA's don't like seeing too much more than 100 psi of oil pressure(I don't know about stock).

So, yes, this question has been beat to death, but everyone's end goal should really be to run the minimum thickness oil that yields the highest oil film strength on the bearing surfaces. This way you get the least amount of friction losses while maintaining your engine.

 

I think you just made my mind up to go with 10/30, unfortunately I have 3 containers of very expensive 10/40 to use lol

 

Use what ever brand synthetic you can afford to change at least every 5k miles or 5 months, and is easily available to you. If thats super shiny oil then do what makes you feel good. Just don't buy expensive oil and have that be a reason you are not keeping up with the correct maintenance schedule because that would defeat the purpose.

 

Evo 8 FSM suggests 20W-40 for temperatures above freezing so don't throw away the 10W-40.