I have an Evo 9, with a built 2.3. The motor was built by Buschur in fall of 2014, and since then I've put about 1500 miles on it. I drive the car very rarely. The turbo is an HTA3076R, and I run 27psi on 93 octane and 33psi on e85. I was thinking it would be a good idea to adapt a catch can to the car, but I need more opinions and suggestions. I would like to prevent crankcase issues and I don't want my rear main or my other seals blowing out. As it came from buschur- they put a huge spring on the dipstick tube that I have to remove when I check the oil. What would you guys suggest I do? I don't track the car (I don't have the talent to drive like that). Mostly I continue to keep the car because I like working on it and bettering my skills at modifying things.

I did do research, but there is a lot of information which seems scattered.

 

Why not ask Buschur since they built the motor? I'm sure they could help address your concerns.

Have you looked at this thread?
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...re-issues.html

 

STM's sealed catch can is easily the cleanest and best sealed can on the market. I personally run one, and have for a few thousand miles.

I want to get another oil cap, and drill/tap the cap and check crank case pressure.

I recommend the single port can.

 

why not the vented can?

 

i have a 900 hp, 10.5:1 motor...

i have two -8an fittings on the valve cover with hose running to K&N filters (NO catch can)

they are never oily... or drip oil.... or anything.
i do still have the baffles in my valve cover.
and yes... i have something holding my dipstick in.

i dont think i would run this on a daily driver... but for a weekend hotrod, works good for me.

 

Constant vacuum > VTA

... in literally every aspect with the exception of simplicity.

 

I am getting back into doing this and so far I have made the following decisions:

1. I will go with a sealed-style system.
2. I will remove the valve-cover on the engine. I will open up the drivers-side (air intake side) port so I can go with a much bigger opening.
3. When the valve-cover is off I will remove the baffles temporarily so I can clean out any machining debris that gets inside.
4. I will go with a dual-catch-can saikoumichi setup.
5. I plan on mounting one can near the passenger side strut tower to keep the routing between the pcv valve and the intake manifold shorter and cleaner.
6. I plan on mounting the other can near where the factory battery location is (I have lots of space there as my battery has been relocated to the trunk)

I still need to figure out what I need to buy in terms of different fittings. I will need:

1. a large fitting that I can thread into the valve cover on the drivers side when I open up the size of the hole there (5/8" maybe?)
2. a fitting that will go in the back of the valve cover where the original pcv valve is. I need some way to come out of the pcv valve to the catch can.
3. I will need a way to adapt the catch can to the intake manifold on the passenger side

I will be fabricating my own aluminum brackets/mounts for the cans. I like to tig weld aluminum so this is something I enjoy doing.

Asking the community for opinions here:

1. Should I go with even better block venting by removing the balance shaft inspection screw, and going with a second exit here?
2. Is there a better PCV valve available that will hold up better with increased turbo performance applications?

I want to get these parts ordered as soon as possible if anyone can make suggestions so I can benefit from the experience of the community.

 

I would put -8 or -10 fittings in the valve cover and buy the Radium Engineering universal dual catch can setup so you have one can for each port (recirculated) and mount them wherever you want by making your own an lines. Much cheaper than the STM can and imo much better quality. I remember somebody here cut open the STM can and it had no baffles or any kind of oil seperating design besides a small clump of steel wool.

 

I think you are focusing on my first (much older) posts. I was considering the STM kit but the main reason I changed my mind is frankly- their customer service just plain sucks. They don't answer emails, or answer phone calls.

I do plan on going the way you described but with saikoumichi cans, not radium cans. Does anyone have a materials listing of the fittings I will need? I know I can buy AN hose from summit.

Is it overkill to use both a 5/8 fitting AND the breather tube from the balance shaft inspection hole?

 

Yes I think thats overkill. Its all going to depend on the size of the barb on the cans and the size of the barb you plan to use in the valve cover. The can has a different size barb on top and side and its not clear on their website what the sizes are. A straight barb fitting off the side of the valve cover ---> push on hose of same size ---> same size barb on the can, then smaller barb on can ---> hose of same size ---> same size barb on intake. Same concept goes for the back of the valve cover except the return hose will go to the barb on intake manifold with a pcv in line. Figure out the size of the hose that will fit the cans then figure out the size of the fittings you need to attach the hose to the valve cover. Its not really a plug-n-play setup you may have to mix and match hose/fitting sizes or use adapters.

 

I plan on having them put a large 5/8" opening on my can since they are build-to-order (order-to-build?).

I want to go with something like this.