Does anyone know how to crush the 1g BOV?
Even when their crushed "Right" they aren't always perfect.. But the best way was the first recommendation.. Depending on how much boost your running, and how much vacuum your engine has, you may experience some leak or whistling if it opens under vacuum slightly.. so keep that in mind.. it should hole 19-20psi boost no problems..
I never thought I'd say this, but that is a stupid question. Why would you want to crush it first of all. And second, how to crush it shouldn't be the question. It is like asking how do you crush a soda can?
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Originally Posted by MalibuJack
Even when their crushed "Right" they aren't always perfect.. But the best way was the first recommendation.. Depending on how much boost your running, and how much vacuum your engine has, you may experience some leak or whistling if it opens under vacuum slightly.. so keep that in mind.. it should hole 19-20psi boost no problems..
Originally Posted by inariv5573
I never thought I'd say this, but that is a stupid question. Why would you want to crush it first of all. And second, how to crush it shouldn't be the question. It is like asking how do you crush a soda can?
I have a crushed 1G BOV in my 2G DSM and I get that whistle once in a while. Ran a bunch of leak tests and couldn't hear a leak anywhere. Only happens once in a while a couple seconds after getting off the boost. Holds 17psi in my case.
you can easily pick out past DSM owners because they know what a crushed BOV is.. the DSM reasoning is beyond description, i have quite a few DSM friends and every so often i gotta take a stick and wack'em a few times..
LOL Well, The reason for crushing the valve is so it compresses the spring, therefore increasing the pressure that it will stay closed at when assisted with the diaphragm's pressure source..
The problem is that the spring pressure is sometimes too low to "Stay closed completely" under high engine vacuum or when theres a bit of pressure with very little assistence from boost pressure..
this valve uses spring pressure and is assisted by boost or vacuum to help it open or close.. there problem is crushing it is always a guestimate.. sometimes it whistles because its not quite closed because engine vacuum on the diaphragm slightly overcomes the diaphragm's spring pressure when theres a bit of positive pressure in the intercooler pipe..
There's a fine line of adjustment where you get it to open "just right" if its too loose, it leaks, and can leak under boost (since the combination of spring pressure and the pressure in the vacuum canister against the diaphragm isn't enough to keep it closed) or under high vacuum conditions (whistling)
Sometimes its just not "Crushed" square, and the diaphragm doesnt seat good or can shift and that can also cause a whistle or a 'squeal' that sounds like your brakes as your coming to a stop, but its not your brakes..
There's no question that its a cheap solution and it does work, but I just don't think it works that well for me at 21+ PSI of boost.. People with aftermarket cams where engine vacuum isn't as high as stock might also notice it whistles or opens prematurely..
You might consider getting the Ralliart DV that I saw advertised, it seems to have a EVO adapter on it, but the flange looks to be a 1G flange, and it should be already setup to handle 19psi of boost easily..
I can tell you on my particular car, the spring pressure and the boost source are not enough to keep it fully closed at pressures over 20psi and it tapers when it gets blown open (I can hear it opening as it sounds like a rush of air) Now my crushed 1G valve came with my setup, so the fact that it was free was the reason I used it.. But I got a Blitz plunger style BOV that doesnt use a diaphragm to use in its place when I get a chance to fab up a recirculation fitting for it. Again its about adjustment, picking the right spring pressure and then finetuning it by using the adjuster nut.. the "crushed" 1G valve's only adjustment is the crush, which is equivalent to the adjuster so its either going to work right, or it wont.. you can crush it a bit more, but be aware that it could bind up or cause compressor surge (when the valve doesnt open easy enough to get rid of the excess air and the turbo literally stalls itself due since there's nowhere for the air to go) if crushed too much.
The problem is that the spring pressure is sometimes too low to "Stay closed completely" under high engine vacuum or when theres a bit of pressure with very little assistence from boost pressure..
this valve uses spring pressure and is assisted by boost or vacuum to help it open or close.. there problem is crushing it is always a guestimate.. sometimes it whistles because its not quite closed because engine vacuum on the diaphragm slightly overcomes the diaphragm's spring pressure when theres a bit of positive pressure in the intercooler pipe..
There's a fine line of adjustment where you get it to open "just right" if its too loose, it leaks, and can leak under boost (since the combination of spring pressure and the pressure in the vacuum canister against the diaphragm isn't enough to keep it closed) or under high vacuum conditions (whistling)
Sometimes its just not "Crushed" square, and the diaphragm doesnt seat good or can shift and that can also cause a whistle or a 'squeal' that sounds like your brakes as your coming to a stop, but its not your brakes..
There's no question that its a cheap solution and it does work, but I just don't think it works that well for me at 21+ PSI of boost.. People with aftermarket cams where engine vacuum isn't as high as stock might also notice it whistles or opens prematurely..
You might consider getting the Ralliart DV that I saw advertised, it seems to have a EVO adapter on it, but the flange looks to be a 1G flange, and it should be already setup to handle 19psi of boost easily..
I can tell you on my particular car, the spring pressure and the boost source are not enough to keep it fully closed at pressures over 20psi and it tapers when it gets blown open (I can hear it opening as it sounds like a rush of air) Now my crushed 1G valve came with my setup, so the fact that it was free was the reason I used it.. But I got a Blitz plunger style BOV that doesnt use a diaphragm to use in its place when I get a chance to fab up a recirculation fitting for it. Again its about adjustment, picking the right spring pressure and then finetuning it by using the adjuster nut.. the "crushed" 1G valve's only adjustment is the crush, which is equivalent to the adjuster so its either going to work right, or it wont.. you can crush it a bit more, but be aware that it could bind up or cause compressor surge (when the valve doesnt open easy enough to get rid of the excess air and the turbo literally stalls itself due since there's nowhere for the air to go) if crushed too much.
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