The main advantage of using a stroker is the increased torque at lower RPM's.. If its built and blueprinted correctly, it should easily rev to 7000+ RPM, however keep in mind since your swinging the weight around, slightly further from the crank centerline, you won't have the same throttle response and max rev's won't be quite as high as a fully built 2 liter motor.. HOWEVER, its really not a big difference with relationship.. and the main difference between a 2.3 and a 2.4 is likely the bore.. but I wouldn't risk overboring a turbocharged engine by too much if you plan on running fairly high boost..

Now, with a balanced and blueprinted motor, built with quality parts, with all the durability goodies, and a good head gasket, you could in theory run 40psi of boost, of course the piston design, wristpin location, fuel, head gasket thickness, will all have a factor on whether or not it will live for very long.. but 25-28psi of boost with good head bolts should be no sweat with a properly assembled stroker.. Keep in mind, even with the smaller stock turbo, you can make 450whp or more if you have the combination dialed in.. the difference is you'd have amazing low-end torque, and almost instant spool..

 

man the guy today at the gas station made fun of me. He said this is normal lol some times I do things that don't make @#R#@R#@

 

I'm sorry but I wouldn't spend my money based on your 2 cents! (long post coming up: cliffnotes-- don't try rev a 2.4L to 9k.)

It's all about piston speed. given the same type of materials in the rods, crankshaft, and main bearing reinforcement there's no question that a motor revving to 9k rpm with a 100mm stroke is going to be shorter lived than a motor with a 88mm stroke. that's the difference between a stock 2.4L (like in the gallant and lancer ralliart) and the 2.0L.

Computing average piston speed is easy, but not as good as using the rod length to compute piston acceleration. There are good calcuators for this, like the ones here for example: http://www.slowgt.com/Calc2.htm#PistSpeed

Average piston speed in meters/sec is just stroke (inches) x rpm / 1181. 28 m/s is the limit for anything that you wish to live very long and even that is very scary territory. What big money import drag motors do has NOTHING to do with what a street-driven engine on a humble budget should do!

Quick math with the 4G64 and 4G63 both at 9k rpm.
4G64 2.4L, 3.94" (100mm) stroke
3.94x9000/1181 = 30.0 m/s BAD NEWS! That's formula 1 type ****.

4G63 2.0L, 3.46" (88mm) stroke
3.46x9000/1181 = 26.4 m/s
IMO this is pretty high. In a former life I had some pretty hot small block chevies. They just happen to have a 3.48" stroke. 9k rpm in one of those required a pretty exotic bottom end.

Consider the stock piston speed of these vehicles:
Evo 20.5 m/s
S2000 (2.0L) 24.0 m/s
Ferrari 360 23.7 m/s
Honda CBR 929 --look left 22.5 m/s

I'm not saying you can't run a 100mm stroke at or beyond 9k rpm. I'm saying that to do so you'd have to machine the **** out of the block and run some ungodly huge rods and super beefy main bearing caps. have you seen a pro dragster's rods? Even then, it's life is measured in hours.

Forget valvetrain. Other than running stiff valvesprings it's not too much of a concern with a DOHC engine with shim under bucket. The bottom end is where something is going to break at 9k. And to keep it from doing so, you need to avoid detonation at all costs and use exotic materials.

 

Honestly i would hope you didnt spend that kind of money on my 0.02. Just like i wouldbt do the same with you. Oh and by the way all i was saying is that it can be done reliably is a different story but like you said yourself it can be done. So my point was made but thank you for all that mathamatical crap very interesting!

 

Nah man, no hate. But you never know who might read something and think, "hey I can do (whatever) with my motor! it said so on EvoM!" This same type of person puts a manual boost controller on an otherwise stock evo, including no gauges, and turns up the knob then wonders what went wrong when the engine is 'making funny noises'.

Hope the info is useful to some of you.

 

I think a 2.4L with one of the RnR equal length turbo kits would absolutely rock for daily driving, and even better yet, autocross! I don't have the money now, but when I have my car paid off, the extra power at lower RPMS is going to rock!

 

Shepard = 2.0
Turbotrix = 2.0
Bushnutz = 2.0
RRE = 2.0

Leave the stroker kits for the upstart lipstick and rouge boutique shops.

 

for anyone out there who is considering this kit, a bit of advice: go on ebay, search for a DSM stroker kit from eagle, email the seller. ALL of those guys are so damn cut throat, you can probably get this kit for more around $1500.

 

Shepare, Turbotrikx, Buschur, and RRE = RACE GAS.

ME = 91 octane

 

Stroker = Street.. Thats a good thing for a daily driver.. just don't expect obscene high RPM's.. couple that with a larger turbo (since you now have more exhaust volume to drive it) and you have a killer sleeper setup..

 

Jack, you said sleeper in the Evo forum

 

hahaha.. yah good point.. But wings and rims are commonplace nowadays.. I'll just put a VTEC sticker on the car

 

Is there anything wrong with the stock 2.4L crank? Are they cast or forged pieces?

After installing my 264 cams, 3" t.b. & flash, I am a bit disappointed with the "grunt" aspect. There is definetely more power down low than before, but I am now starting my quest to build a 2.4 4G64 motor to get some serious torque for my daily driver.

The car pulls like a rocket & is very strong now up to 7,500, however I dont want to tach my car out to get that power.

 

 

I thought you couldn't get 2.4liter out of 4g63?